Coley

I am reproducing a 1932 Chrysler long stand and bought this thinking it might be Chrysler also but it is too short. This one has part # 619779 on the bottom. It is about 6" long. Any ideas as to what it fits?

They are NOT 1935 Chevy Masters. I have seen some like this, but can't recall what car.

I put a narrowed 1949 Chevy truck axle under my 1933 3 window coupe, Street Rod. It went into a death wobble so bad at 45mph that you couldn't see out of it. Everything was new and tight, but I had the old rebound lever shocks on it. I put new regular shocks on it with angle brackets and it never did it again. Alignment shops will tell you this won't work, but it did for me. I ran it on the drag strip in "C" gas and it behaved well.

The clips you need are not available??

I have been reproducing parts from zinc ally for parts that were zinc originally, but done in the diecast method. Die-cast is very expensive, unless you make hundreds of them. I do many one to 10 copies of a part for restoration shops or even one of a kind, for a walk-in customer. One problem is that when you go through the tooling process for casting parts, and put a few out for sale, they won't sell because the owner of the car is saying: Now that that hard to find part is being made, I can always get it, so I will now look for the next hardest part to find. They don't realize that if the parts don't sell, when they are offered, they may not be made again. I do custom parts for dealers and shops, but I also make a lot of Chevy parts just to sell for myself. Currently I have been making Packard as well as Chevy tail light stands for the 1930s cars. Your best bet for making parts is to get ahold of dealers or Forums of the brand of car that is your favorite and quiz them as to what they get the most calls for. You can reproduce most any die-cast part with just some Petro-Bond, no Bake and plaster casting methods. The supplies are not expensive and and the Zinc alloys are not costly items. A small mill, a metal lathe and a drill press will get you done with the machining, most of the time. A belt sander and a bead blast cabinet is very helpful. What is expensive is YOUR time. That is the hardest part......figuring what to charge for your items. Ebay is a good evaluator. Put a price on it and see if it sells. Then, lower the price until it does. Look up parts that are selling that are original parts. See what they are payiong for damaged originals and then set your price a little higher for your new one. You can have outside foundries cast brass, aluminum and cast iron for you, if you can make them a good pattern. The new 3D printers are getting cheaper all the time and may be a good way to make patterns. Just a few suggestions.

Hi, Where in Illinois are you located? Do know Kevin Mueller? He has a grand collection of small 1960s theme boats that I make emblems for all the time. Spin casting is the best way to reproduce your parts. email me at gcoleman@frontier.com

You could CnC a die set but it would take a very large press to mount them in so they fit exactly and then have pressure enough to clamp down on the cap. You would need a clamping ring the size of the center to clamp down on the cap so it didn't wrinkle when the pressure was put to the center die set. How larege of a market is there for them??

There are a couple sets of handles on ebay, but no keys with them. Do you have your old cylinders out yet? The problem is that they have the releases under the tube ferrel. I had to ruin one ferrel just to see how the handle came apart. I have the old cylinder out but the section with the tumblers in is broken off.

I have a restoration shop that needs new handles made for a 29/30 Whippet. I can make the non-locking ones, but need a cylinder and key for the locking handle, so I can rebuild it. Anyone know of a source?

Are you pressure bleeding with a bleeder ball system? Or are you just having someone press the brake pedal? I always fill the MC and bleed it on the bench. Then put it on the car and then press the pedal down, once and lock it there with a rod made for that purpose. Then go to the farthest cylinder from the MC, and open the bleeder valve with a box end wrench so as to observe fluid and or air bubbles . Next Repeat the process until that cylinder shows NO air bubbles. Now (after checking the fluid level in the MC), push the brake pedal and hold down with the rod. Then bleed the next farthest cylinder. Repeat until all the cylinders show only fluid when bleb. Too many people think you need to pump the MC a few times before bleeding a wheel cylinder. That is the best way to put air bubbles into the system. Drum type brakes should have the shoes adjusted to operating clearances, before starting the bleeding attempt.

American Restoratiion is a put on scam show that is hard to watch and hear the quotes for simple work. We did some work for them and found out how they stage the "restorations". Interesting to watch at times, just don't believe all you see.

I go right into Paypal without going to eBay to check out this scam. I get this onece a month or so. I forward it to ebay or PayPal, then delete it.

Usually there are 2 cylinders. You fill the pump in the trunk up under the pocket that holds the top when down. Easy to do with the top up. Pump may need cleaned and a seal kit put in.

Looks like a firing pin for an old air rifle.

A better picture from the side of the trans along with numbers off the case would be helpful.

Thanks for the info. The ones I am going to make are for an antique truck and have a recessed plain center. A friend has 2 of these, but they are not large enough for use as patterns. The ones I am going to make have a 2.560 inside dimenstion on the threads.

I am going to be making some hub caps similar to this design. I would like to know what car this is from. It is 1 3/4" tall. It is for a 2 1/4 diameter hub. I used to make some for the 1928-29 Chevies, but this is larger. Thanks for any help.

Thanks for the information. I would imagine waxed paper should be used over the glue joints.

I picked up some of these clamps at a sale yesterday, but don't know what they are for.

They were also called cruiser skirts. Put them on eBay and you will be surprised at what they can bring. Run the auction for 7 days or more. BUT>>>>DO NOT take any "buy it now" offers on them. If someone asks you to stop the auction and sell them to him for X $$, tell him thanks for the offer, but they will run the full time of the auction. Whatever they offer for them, they will sell for close to double that amount.

Why not not just cut 1/4" from each side?

Possibly it had lead washers that were hammered into the opening to stop grease from getting out?? There looks to be holes in the "cup" for keeping it from turning?

A little heat on the spindle doesn't hurt either. In Chevy dealerships, we had to heat the end of truck axles red hot to get the pins to even start moving. Be sure to remove the dust cap on the top before driving the pin out.

The one on the left looks like a 1958-64 Chevy Muncie OD. Too short for 55-6-7. Probably has a rear mount pad on the bottom. The other one looks like a 1965-up Saginaw, 3 or 4 speed depending on number of levers. A couple good LH side photos would really help.

A couple of pictures would help. I have made some for other cars, like Chrysler and Cadillac as well as Henny.