Coley

I am wondering what your car is. I have had a 1933 Chevy 3 window coupe (no rumble seat trunk), for over 50 years. I see a 1933 hood ornament but a lot of differences. Nice car.

I have been making up door handles for the 1931+ REOs and have come up with a way to replace the factory retainers without ruining the original handles. I know other auto makers used the same type of retainers and they are often broken. They were pressed onto the handle over a thin washer. I have come up with a way to replace them with a snap ring. Here are a couple pictures of the retainers (both plain and the decorative style). The decorative retainers are made to match your original style and either nickle plated or chromed. If anyone is interested, just let me know. Greg Coleman/Chevi Shop Custom Casting ,.

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to repair it and see if it will sell.

Thanks. I realize that..... Just wondered what the tag might have been on the front.

This is an old Boyce Motometer. What car might it have been used on? It tilts back to add water. Has threads inside the base. 11 inches wide from wing tip to wing tip. Diameter of the base is 2 7/8 inside. A medallion may have been on the front with 4 small pins. The release lever for the tilt is an eagle head. And yes it was broken just a day or two ago. I have the broken off wing.

Pot-Metal restoration in Florida used to do as great job of this sort of work. Don't have a number or address.

How about bead blasting it clean and then coating it with lead or tin?

At a local auction yesterday 3 of these archer statues sold. Were they for the Archer oil Company? All I have ever seen for the company is an Indian archer.

The idea of using large shrink tubing came to mind. The wheel would have to be cut open to slip it on, but easily welded back together. Then work it back over the weld and heat gun it to get it to shrink tight on the wheel. How is that for 2 cents worth?

To get the other broken stud out, take a nut and put it over the stub as close to the manifold as possible Then mig weld the nut to the stub. Let it cool to room temp and it should turn right out. A shop near me taught me this. The fellow is 85 and still repairing cast and other farm machinery parts. Sometimes he takes a 1/4" thick plate of steel 1" by 4" and drills a hole in it, close to one end, to match the broken stud diameter. Ten mig welds it and used the piece of steel for lever to remove the item. The nut works well in tight places, where the piece of steel works well in open areas. If there is a lot of stud left, for a vicegrip to get a good bite, heat the broken stud NOT THE MANIFOLD red hot and let it cool to room temp. Repeat and then when cooled it should turn right out with the vicegrips. I have been using this on restoration projects for over 45 years.

I do have them in stock. I can send you one for $20.00 and free s/h. Chevi Shop Custom Casting. 815-225-7565

I make reproduction covers like that. I will see if I have one in stock.

Hi Mark, Greg Coleman here. Did you ever get the measurement for the length of the choke cable for the REOs. I have the tooling done for the knobs, but need the length of the longest cable to make them up.

The Chandler just sold for $62.29, on eBay. Will make copies of the Stearns before listing them for sale. It is the easier of the 2 to reproduce.

I may list the CHANDLER just to see if there is any interest. Thanks for the replies.

Just wondering. I picked them up at an estate sale for $8.00 each. Will put them on the shelf.Thanks

I have a couple of good patterns for making hub caps, but wondered if they are rare and needed. One is a Chandler and one is a Stearns. Was this Stearns before Knight came along?

Thanks for the info.

This is a single headlamp with a turn off bezel. It is 10" in diameter.No lense. The housing is made with 3 clips and the bezel turns to latch onto it. Just a round stem for mounting. Any idea what it fits?

That is a closed drive shaft setup. What clue are you using that the bushing is bad?

Try pushing on the wiper arm at the wiper transmission end. There is a spring loaded hub on the wiper trans and if they are good, the cable will tighten up. When you push gently on the trans shaft (base of wiper arm), you should feel some spring pressure. If this doesn't help tighten the cables, go under the dash and pull gently on the cables while someone pushes on the base of the arm. If you don't feel any extra slack, the wiper transmissions may need to be removed and freed up. Get a shop manual for your car and use it to see how to remove and service the transmissions.

Thanks for the info.

Bought two of these at a sale today. 11" across the headlight. Cast iron brackets with a hole for a cross bar. Lenses have Bousch & Lombe on them. On the upper back is a small green glass lense. Any ideas? Car? Truck?

I tried to reproduce a locking handle for a Whippet for White Post Restorations last year. I bought handles from different vendors but nothing was good enough to take a part to get the cylinder out. The handles were originally made to NEVER be taken apart, so I took the handle away from the cylinder on one and took the cylinder away from handle on another to try to get a usable handle. None of the cylinders were good enough to use. Finally bought a new handle for a storage box on eBay. The cylinder had a key with NO Code cut into it. You could unlock the lock with your pocket knife. Sent the cylinder and a handle to White Post to chrome it and assemble it. The non-locking handles that I made for them came out fine. I don't do locking handles anymore, that aren't GM.

No, as I already make those. This one mounts like a 1932 Chrysler, so I thought it was for a sedan.