riv2x4

Started digging around on this yesterday. Found the tan wire to the round connector for the gas gauge has what looks like a couple of taped connections in it near the round connector. What's the best way to get at the connector and wires? Larry

Or cut the current top so that it can be used as a one piece hardtop like the BMW's and some MB's had. The engine in the ad is the wrong color, should be silver not green.

Last time my 64 was wet war coming home after 2003 BCA meet in Flint. Got caught in a downpour. Keep it covered, use a duster too.

Picts of factory design exercise. Also NOM, should be silver. What else is wrong, the ad isn't very clear on that?

Bernie, you know I want to do the same thing. My research has found the mid 60's Skylark is the closest fit for the Riv. The car should have been factory built.

I agree on the 63. About 90 minutes from me.

Seen many topics on senders and ground for the gauge. I've got a different one. My dash gauge has a history of not working or being erratic. I put in about 8 gallons every once in a while or the gas fumes overwhelm my garage. Had to take my radio out for service. I must have bumped something because the gauge started working. This went on until I put the radio back in and bumped whatever I did before and now the gauge is inoperable again. Anybody else see theirs act like this? Rest of the lights and gauges work properly so line to gauge is the problem????

I'm reasonably close to this guy if anyone is interested. FYI, there is a lot of flooding in this area right now, not sure if he's impacted or not.

My 64 624 Trim code is identical in black carpet and console color. Curious why the valve covers are repainted but not much else under the hood has been restored.

I seem to recall in the 70's, Monte Carlo's had swivel seats of some sort.

I may try that. Seeing what people hang on to for "just in case" reasoning might help offset the cost of the air cleaner and or the rechroming.

I just bought a dual quad air cleaner set up and it shipped with an old used AC 59C element. Just asking the gang here, is there any value in it? I'd just pitch it if it was any aftermarket brand element based on its condition but the AC's are getting harder to find.

Part of me wants to see more of this and I think it might be kinda cool depending on what the rest of it looks like. Never saw a Roadmaster Wagon Convertible before.

My 64 copy. Since I think I was his first 64 I sent copies of other original 64 window stickers.

I have one of his for my 64.I had to provide him wit a "blank" for him to copy into his graphic program. He then produced my individualized 64. Have to ask him if he has a Buick 65 template.

I need to replace the dual master retrofitted on my 64. It is a deep hole vs the shallow hole. The original had the bale cap which I thought meant Moraine booster with the screw cap meaning a Bendix booster. Looking for the replacement master, I found descriptions of Bendix being the deep hole and Moraine being the shallow. Also suggestions that the Moraine Booster was finished in Gold Cad and the Bendix booster finished in black paint. What has anybody else found on this?

I know there has been some debate on this. After looking at several NOS era hood hinges I am of the belief that they were finished with Zinc Phosphate. Also some clean used originals show the same finish. What has anybody used to refinish theirs or have you just gone with under hood black? Eastwood has a Zinc Phosphate aerosol product that may or may not accurately reproduce the original finish depending on who you talk to.

70 GS overflow tank and bracket, $10 + shipping.

69 Buick parts manual, $125 shipped to lower 48. 76 Fisher body manual, $10 + shipping

Chrome Tail panel, $75 NORS Chrome/Stainless gas filler opening trim, may fit other full size $15 Grill Emblem holder, $10

What is the current thinking on best way to replace/repair/restore an original brake booster? I know Booster Dewey is available but I hate to send one out an have the car down for a while or have him send one and have to get it in right away to send the core back. Does anyone know if there are there any aftermarket or repops available that generally copy the original? I have already done the dual master conversion so would a 67 style booster be a better choice if it is a direct bolt in? thanks Larry

TTT

A agree, I'd take that one on a heartbeat. Factory car if I remember correctly.

We still have one somewhere. Sat on console between front seats. By mid 00's integrated DVD players were available and it became a must have option.Now with smart phones and kids being older not as necessary, but boy did it save much parental brain damage on trips.

Anyone else wonder why the valve covers look "restored" but the rest of the engine bay looks untouched? Not sure of the color of the intake, could be more silver or just aged.