oldford

I have a pair of rear touring doors for a 4 cylinder Buick (late teens) for sale. $60 for the pair. Can deliver to Hershey space CM18-21. 518-828-1414 Frank

1929 Reo Flying Cloud

I have a set of 4 20" split rims that fit late 20's Chevy. Good condition. Can deliver to Hershey. $100 for the set. 518-828-1414.

I sent an email to the address in your profile, but it returned. Call me at 518-828-1414 or email at oldfords@verizon.net Frank

My National Service Data only goes up to 1932, but I do have a Hollanders that covers your car. It indicates that your generator should be a 946C which is a Delco 3-Brush model and uses a standard cut-out as you said. It also states that the Master uses a 935V which is also a 3-Brush model and uses a standard cut-out. The difference is that the Master has a light switch that as an extra set of contacts that short out a shunt resistor that limits the field current. When the switch is not pulled, the shunt resistor is in the circuit and limits the field current. When the switch is pulled, the resistor is shorted out and the field current is at its maximum. Your light switch does not have the limiting resistor but I would guess there is an "F" terminal on the light switch to accept the wire from the generator. This all assumes you have this 946C generator which must have the "F" terminal to connect the fields to an external connection on your light switch. Of course, since I don't have a schematic diagram for your car, I can only go by my experience with auto generator systems. If you don't have an "F" terminal on your light switch, you must ground the field terminal through an external resistor. I would use a .5 ohm wire-wound resistor capable of dissipating about 15-20 watts. If you don't have the external field connection on your generator, then it is grounded through the case and you wire from the light switch is not needed. Hope this helps. Frank

Now I am confused. I don't have the exact schematic for your car, but your set-up may have been modified before you got it. You either have a three brush unit with a cut-out or a two brush unit with a regulator. The regulator is simply a combination of cut-out and current regulator. The regulator part is connected to the field windings through a set of switch contacts to ground. When open, the fields are no longer grounded and when closed, the fields are grounded. This allows the generator to generate current or to have the generator shut off, so to speak. In a three brush generator, the fields are connected through the third brush to regulate the charging current. There should be no 'field wire' on a three brush system to connect to anything. The fields are grounded through the generator case. I will try to find a chevy schematic today and post it. I don't know when chevy dropped the three brush generator, but my guess is that it was well before the year of your car. Perhaps, if you have a field terminal on your car, someone has changed the voltage regulator to a cut-out. If so, you will have to change back.

If I'm not mistaken, the field resistor is used to change the charging rate of the generator when the load is increased. This allows the driver to choose a higher or lower rate of charge gy turning the dial on the variable resistor. If your car does not have the variable resistor, simply connect the field terminal on the generator to the F connection on the voltage regulator. Frank

Simple... Car mfg's just didn't have the technology to provide a large metal panel that would stay in place. The large roof would vibrate and 'drum' from the lift at higher speeds. Ever see the soft top on a modern convertible rise up at higher speeds. The same thing would happen to the metal roofs. Frank

I don't really want to hijack this thread, but I always wondered what the difference is between a street rod and a hot rod. Also modified vs. custom. Frank

Try Egge Machine (California). Click below for their web site. Egge Machine

How about a 1928 Graham Bros???? That raised portion on the top front of the radiator shell might be a clue. It looks like the rest of the truck was build for tough duty, with the hard tires and all. Could be that the chassis was Graham and ther rest custom built.

I looked at the Reo trucks in my truck spotter's guide because I thought the wheel hub covers were a dead give-a-way. The 29-30 large Reo's are real close, but now I'm not so sure.... The nickled shell seems to date it as mid to late '20's , but the front fenders imply earlier. I'll keep looking....

You can remove nickel from the brass with HCl (hydrocloric acid), commonly sold as muriatic acid. If the lamp has chrome over the nickel, you will have to remove the chrome first with H2SO4 (sulfuric) or battery acid. It will take a little time and you may have to immerse the lamp and stir occassionaly, but it works.

I know my 64 1/2 Mustang had one plate. Black with gold letters. 1965 added a red tape strip to the single black plate. Not sure about other years.

1929 or 1930 Reo

I had a similar problem with my Big Six generator and found that the easiest solution was to take a 6 volt chevy generator from the fifties and fit the three hole stude end onto it. This allowed the chevy generator to stand up like a silo and fit the mounting holes, but gave me all new insides from the chevy. Except for the two terminals (field and armature) you could hardly tell it wasn't the stude generator.

I believe it to be a 1918-1919 Studebaker Big Six 7 Passenger Touring. 1920 had a slanted windshield.

The carburetor in the link above is for an early Dodge Bros. 1915 up to about 1918.

Looks like an Indian twin, about 1912-15.

The Big Six head that I had sold a while ago. It did not have "Big Six" cast into it, nor did any year Stude have such a casting, that I know of.....

I believe I have a good working starter/generator for your car. You are in Craryville? I'm in Hudson, give me a call....828-1414. Frank

The following was posted to their site at the bottom of the 'Marion' description: <span style="font-weight: bold">Addendum This lot is believed to be an amalgamation of several brass era cars from a variety of manufacturers. The chassis and powertrain are believed to be from an Overland as well as other miscellaneous parts. By virtue of the percentage of Overland parts on this vehicle it may best be described as a homemade Overland speedster with Marion tags and badges. Please speak to an RM specialist for further information.</span> Maybe this forum is read by more people than we know..... Frank

I sent you the files via email. They are pdf's and are large. if they are too large to load, let me know, and I'll try to make them smaller. Frank

I just found a similar diagram showing the contacts on the Eismann switch that you have. Even the contacts show the same labels. I'll send that too. Frank

I have several wiring diagrams that may help you. I have the complete diagram for the 1919 Loco Model 48, but the switch contacts are not named. I also have some diagrams for different Berling mags, showing switches and their connections to the mags. These are more promising, since they have the contact labels shown. If I can scan them tomorrow, I'll send them to you. Frank