oldford

I have a pair that is complete, but needs plating. These are the smaller ones that are found on the Big Six and President. Pretty good shape. I'll send you a photo tomorrow. Frank

I've decided to sell my lovely President. It can be seen at http://www.frontiernet.net/~oldford/rspecial.htm I have had it for nearly 15 years and it looks and drives wonderfully. Engine rebuilt with new babbit mains, rods, valves, pistons, etc..... $18,000. Frank Iaccino 845-876-4800 or email: oldford@frontiernet.net

We just got done loading all 18 of the Model T engines on the trailer and we'll be at the same place. CM18-21. Hope to see you again.... Frank

The discussion illustrates exactly why manufacturers went to two brush generators with regulators instead of cutouts. The daily regimen would consist of setting the third brush for daytime at around 5-8 amps and then resetting the third brush for night time driving at higher amps. If you keep the charging rate high and do much driving, you will eventually kill the battery. Another tactic was to set the charging rate high and turn the lights on for daytime driving. Frank

Being a Model T man, I'm not too informed about early chevrolet. I will be putting a 1928 Chevy overhead on my Model T block via an adapter plate. In the box of used parts that came with the head, I found a single pushrod that will suit my needs, but I don't know what it originally fit. It is about 10" long and is .247" in diameter and is solid, not hollow. The top is a bell shape that fits the ball on the rocker arm adjuster and the bottom is a ball that fits the lifter. There are also two more pushrods that are similar, but are .315" in diameter and are too thick. I need the thinner pushrod. Can anyone tell me if these are Chevy and what years? I need 8 of them. Thanks in advance. Frank

If the dwell angle is stable after you adjusted the timing rod, I'd stay with troubleshooting the distributor. My old distributor was shot so I replaced it with a factory rebuilt unit. Yes, you can still get them at auto parts stores that are not the 'fast food' chain stores. I paid $50 for mine and the problem went away. Now that I think about it, I bought two. I ordered them from two different stores, thinking that one would not come through, and they both did. I didn't have the heart to ask one to send it back. Send me your address via private email and I'll send it to you. If it works, pay me the 50 bucks and if it doesn't, send it back. It still sounds like the distributor. Frank oldford@frontiernet.net email editied by FAI

How do you know the dwell angle changes? If you use the timing light, does the spark advance as you rev the engine? I have seen cases where the crank shaft damper causes a mis-reading on the timing mark. Let me explain... The damper is a two-piece iron pulley that is joined by a rubber inner core. This inner core can separate from the iron halves and cause one iron half to 'spin' slightly from its correct position. This will cause the timing mark on the pulley to move from its correct position. If you are seeing the timing mark move and give you the impression the dwell is changing, it may move when hot and then go back when cold. If your timing is off to begin with due to the incorrect mark position, all bets are off. Try to time it by ear and see where the mark is. Your ears are better than you think..... Of course, you could get a new damper and see how it effect your timing..... Frank

Soak them in kerosene. This will loosen the cosmoline and you should be able to wipe it off with a soft brush and cloth. Frank

If the data plate on the door has been changed, then there is not a good way to tell the manufacture date. If it has not been changed, then the date on the patent plate starts with a letter code. A is for January , B for Feb....and so on. If the plate is gone, then look for some of the part changes that occured between '64 and '65. 1964 1/2 had generators, 10" brakes on V8's, 'gen' on the charging dash light (not 'alt'), 'lips' on the hood over the headlight bulbs, etc. Frank

Greg, My records show that the Wagner generator/dynamo that you have uses the W16 brush. How many do you need? I have the brushes you need and send me an email with the info, and I'll give you the price. I don't like to give prices on an information forum..... Frank

I might be all wet here, but I believe it to be a 1912 Overland. The classic radiator shape, the shape of the front axle, the oval emblem on the radiator... I put it at 1912, because in 13 or 14, I think they went to left hand drive.

The Rhinebeck show is ALWAYS the first full weekend in May, and yes, the bridge is finished.

Hooter - I have some info you may be able to use. It is in the 1964 National Service Data. I don't have a '63 book, but the '64 seems to look like the set-up you frdcribe. Send me an email and maybe I can fax you this.

I love the hershey show. I have been going to hershey every year for since 1973, so I've seen a bunch of them. Each year one small thing seems to get to me and this year was no different. Can someone explain why, in their infinite wisdom, the hershey organizers decided to remove the vendors' business names from the listing. Usually, if I want to find Gaslight Auto Parts, I look under Ford T and find them instantly. This year, all of the names listed were those of the booth owner, not the business name. It sure made it tough to find them. I know change is good, but can we go back to the old directory layout?????

I'm cleaning out some stuff and found some very long connecting rods - 8 of them. From the center of the wrist pin to the center of the crank hole is 10 15/16". The wrist pin hole is 1.037" Dia and the crank hole is 2.176" Dia. They are babbited on the crank, no inserts and they have an oil hole that indicates pressurized oil. The crank journal is 1.214" wide. Since there are 8 of these rods, I'm assuming they are from an 8 cylinder engine. Any idea what they fit? I'd just like to know, since they are worth more to the guy who needs them than they are to me. I'd hate to chuck them into the junk pile....

The vacuum tank does not technically 'suck the gas' from the main tank, but rather, it uses a vacuum in the small tank to cause air pressure in the main tank to 'push' the gas into the small tank. Got it?? Since the system relies on a vacuum, if there is an air leak in any of the gaskets, the system will fail. Be careful not to use any silicone gasket sealer on these units, since gasoline will dissolve most RTV sealants. Next, make sure the large float still floats. Put it in a tank of water and see if it indeed floats. If it sinks, it can be sealed with solder, but you may need help with this one. One last note, be sure the gas cap is vented. If there is no vent, or the vent is plugged, the system will fail. AL Dykes has an excellent section on vacuum tanks. It is an excellent reference.<P>Frank

Thanks guys for all of this info. I'd love to see the photos of the marine engine when you get them. Peter, sounds like I have the start of a head casting shop for your manifolds.<P>Frank

Yes, I will have it at Rhinebeck. I thought of the 60 HP ford engine, but now I'm not sure. I thought of a V8 since there is an 'L' in the top center. If it stands for Left, then there should be a Right. I compared it to a v8 head, but I think it was a later head. It had the radiator hose going into the top center of the head. At least I think it was a V8 head. This damned 'late model' stuff confuses me! See you Saturday?? or Friday??

Thanks to Jim Harris of the engine room for possibly solving the mystery. He found a page for old marine engines and it shows a palmer 4 cylinder marine engine that was available in right or left hand models. (hence the "L"). Thanks for the help....<P>Frank

Peter, this is all I have. I'm tempted to just put in on the fireplace hearth next to the 4 cylinder kellog air pump and the hand crank Model T coil tester, but I was hoping someone who new what this really was could use it. If you knew my wife, you'ld call her a saint...

Peter, thanks for the explanation. I did not mean to slight you.<P>Frank

I cannot show the underside of the head to show you the chamber because this is not a cylinder head. It is a wooden pattern used in the casting process to make the cylinder head. I did think to check the bolt pattern, though. and it is too big for a V8 flathead. I'll check it agains one of the Model A heads that I have amongst the heavy iron in my barn. I thought of a V8 conversion from the start, so I checked against a head, but it's not the same. Did all Ford V8 heads have the same bolt pattern?

I just came across an interesting tid-bit and haven't a clue what it is. It is a wooden pattern for a 4 cylinder head that has the word 'Palmer' in the center. It also appears that it would have had two spark plugs per cylinder. The pattern is 18 inches long and just over 7 inches wide. Anyone got a clue as to what this is. See photo: <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/palmer1.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/palmer1.jpg</A>

Let me get back to you tonight, when I get home. I think I have many.

You don't indicate what base the murphy stud must have. There are wood screw bases, metal screw bases and flange bases that take two screws of your choice. Must the fastener have the 'M' for Murphy, or can you use the 'Common Sense' fastener which is the exact same one without the 'M'? I have many of these fasteners, it just depends on the base that you need.