oldford

Let me get back to you tonight, when I get home. I think I have many.

You don't indicate what base the murphy stud must have. There are wood screw bases, metal screw bases and flange bases that take two screws of your choice. Must the fastener have the 'M' for Murphy, or can you use the 'Common Sense' fastener which is the exact same one without the 'M'? I have many of these fasteners, it just depends on the base that you need.

Sorry Joe, I don't know what more to say. It may be spring tension. If you can remove one of them, try to find another at a hardware store of similar shape and size that is stiffer. If you cant find any, try streching the ones you have. Sorry that I can't be more help.<P>Frank

What's in a name? Great post!!!

Joe, Glad to hear the shaft is not broken. Is there anything binding? Could be that if there is, the spring tension is not enough to overcome the binding. The generator that I have is not for your car. It is a model 82 Delco, and according to my books, fits a later Hudson. <P>Frank

Joe, My first thought is that the armature shaft is broken between the drive gear and the commutator. Thats just a guess, since I don't think your unit has gear reduction. I think I have that same motor/generator at home on the shelf (I'm at work now) so when I get home I will see if mine is the same.<P>Frank

I'll send you an email regarding my car. Upstate New York.

I sent you a note off line. I think I have a radiator that you can use.

I have not been on the forum in a bit, so I did not see your post. I have extensive Autolite info from about 1930 through 1955 and cannot find any distributor heads with the number you post. I don't doubt that the number is what it is, since I can see it. I wonder if it isn't a detailed part number rather than the assembly. I went to your other photo and played detective. The photo of the point set seems to match only one point set in my Sandard/Blue Streak photo book: AL 4556XP; which translates to late thirties Chrysler. Points: AL4556XP; Condenser: AL118X; Rotor: AL98; Cap: AL96. I would take the distributor to your local auto parts store (a good one, not Autozone) and ask for those numbers and try them on the head. Good luck.

I have found oval slotted wood screws at McMaster Carr. They have a web site mcmaster.com. They have stainless, brass, and zinc plated. Good company, I've purchased from them many times.

Oldiron, send me a note. I have many of these and they are NOS. I saw your note last week and meant to reply, but ran out of time.

I understand that an early Maxwell steering box will also do nicely. What have you?.....

I'm looking for a worm and sector steering box for the Chevy 490. I was told this was easily adapted to the Ford Model T.

1922 Centerdoor; older restoration in excellent condition and a strong driver. Pictures can be seen at <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/22cdoor.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/22cdoor.htm</A> <BR>Will be in Hershey Chocolate Field CM18. $12000. 845-876-4800

I did not want to start something, but I agree with you completely. Herco is out for themselves. I don't know if this is a rule, but I'm beginning to think this is just a rumor. If anything more is heard, I'll post it. the 'unregistered' label must be because I forgot to add my password.

I ordered an exhaust system for my Mustang from them two years ago and was disapointed. One of the pipes was not even close to being correct and his only position was that it was my problem to solve. I have seen them at most of the eastern shows this summer and find it hard to believe they are home making your pipes while at the shows. I would not expect the pipes to show up until January. I bought from Kepich in Florida and was very happy. I will not by from Waldron again.

Hey, Blackstar! I gave you the vacuum tank. How is it working for you. I'll remember the empty trailer. The question is, will it be coming BACK empty....

Well, I can't speak for others, but I would be interested. Of Course it depends on the price. I just received a pair of steel gears from Boston Gear that cost me $35 for the pair. These are blanks that I have yet to machine to fit properly. since I have the tools, it's not a problem, but even my time is money, so to speak. The other problem with these gears is they only have 15 teeth. The originals had 21 and would be easier to set timing. Do you have a price range you were considering????<P>Frank

My spotter's guide shows 31 X 4 tires on a '23 Light Six. This would be 23" wheels. If the wheels on your '19 are 23", I would guess they are the same size. If you need a light six crank shaft in good used condition, let me know.

The specs for the car engines are: Fireing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4; Spark Plug Gap: .032" - .036"; Ignition Timing: (Auto Trans) 12 Deg BTDC (Std) 6 Deg BTDC; Point Gap: .024" - .026". Need anything else?? Good Luck.

Thanks for the info. I emailed him and will wait for his reply. Saratoga is not too far, What body style do you have?

Do you have a photo you can send? oldford@worldnet.att.net

Yes, if it is a pick-up on a car chassis. I have a touring and there is more than enough room to spare.

I asked this on the Stude forum, but so far, no response: My '27 Studebaker Big six engine just stripped the 45 degree pot metal gears off the cam shaft. Is anyone making a replacement set? Thanks.....Frank

My '27 Big six engine just stripped the 45 degree pot metal gears off the cam shaft. Is anyone making a replacement set? Thanks.....Frank