oldford

John, see if you can mount them from the back side of the rim. If you do scratch the rim, touch-up paint is less likely to be seen on the inside.

Can someone help? I just installed a Rayfield Carburetor on my Fronty and cannot adjust the darn thing. It is similar to the<BR>Model M shown in the Dykes Manual in the carburator section, but seems to be a mirror image. Unfortunately, the photos in<BR>the Dykes are not clear. I need to identify the high speed adjustment. Dykes has an arrow that points into the air horn but does<BR>not show it clearly. In the photo at: <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/rayfield4.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/rayfield4.jpg</A> <BR>the lower inset shows the carb from the top. Inside the air horn is a set screw. I have<BR>had it out, but cannot even tell what the damn thing adjusts. the low speed adjustment is the large thumbwheel to the left near<BR>the throttle plate. If I could just get it coarsly adjusted, I'm sure I could tweek it from there. Thanks guys....

1926 - 1927 Chevy

In my Mustang, the only failure was the lights failed to come on, but then, I do not have power brakes. The question is, "Why does this only happen to the switch and not the other rubber parts in the system, like wheel cylinder rubbers." The new parts today are not affected by silicone fluid. I sent my disassembled switch to Bill Canon of Skinned Knuckles when it failed, but I never heard back from him. As near as I can tell, the fluid got behind the diaphram and there was no longer a pressure differential pressent to cause the switch to operate. This would indicate to me that the diaphram shrunk just enough to allow the fluid to get behind it. The fix is easy enough, but I don't understand why it happens.

When I rebuilt my President several years back, I contacted Egge Machine in California and the made my pistons for me. They had all the specs and they fit perfectly. I just asked for .030 over standard and they made them for me. Been very happy....

It's funny that you mention the stop light switch problem. When I redid my '64 1/2 Mustang, I used silicone brake fluid because of all of the reasons above, but I, too, go through switches about once every 18 months. I even cut one apart to see what failed, but found it to be normal. The nearest I can tell, is that the fluid was allowed to get behind the diaphram. This prevents the diaphram from closing the switch contacts. The diaphram is supposed to be impervious to silicone fluid, but they still fail. I can count on a failure so regularly, that I replace it every spring just to keep it from failing on the road.

I can't speak specifically to your car, but in general, the wheels would have been painted the same color as the lower half of the car. If the fenders and running boards are black, then the wheels would have been black. Of course, you could just paint the wheels the color you like, and if the color is appropriate for the period, it would look just fine.

Gents, I have what I believe is a Light Six crankshaft in good condition. It rings when you strike it. I know it is Stude, but not sure if Light Six or not. It is 33 1/4" long with a 6 bolt flange on the flywheel end and has 4 mains. If you are interested, I will measure the journals with a micrometer.

Thanks much. I had some people tell me that the button was used to check the charge in the dry cell batteries before starting the car, but that would have taken a set of normally open contacts, and these are normally closed. It makes sense that the points of the contacts, when opened by the push button would fire the secondary of the coil, just like those in the distributor. Thanks again.

Gents, I just located a nice example of the Splitdorf ignition switch that can switch the source from battery or magneto. It is the round type with the lever at the bottom that reads, "Mag-Off-Bat" and has a removeable key in the center. There is a push button at 12 o'clock that seems to be for a set of momentary contacts, but it is hard to tell. The switch is missing one of the pair of contacts, so it is only a guess, but I think it is a vairly good guess. My question is this, "What circuit was connected to this momentary set of contacts?" The 1912 Dykes manual shows the push button, but I cannot find any circuit that has the push button shown. Also, since my National Service Data electrical guide only goes back to 1915, I don't have any information as to which car companies used this switch. I would date this switch from about 1905-1907, but I'm not sure. Any clues? Thanks in advance.<P>Frank

If I'm not mistaken, the correct flare fitting is a standard 45 degree flare avaiable at any good hardware store. These are not obsolete fittings and are available in 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", etc.

I have an early National Service Data Manual and I cannot find a Studebaker in either the teens or twenties that used that model Remy distributor. My info states that a '17 stude used either an 87A or 88A Remy distributor. My info shows that a Remy 217E was used on 1918-19 Saxon Model Y18. That is the only reference I can find for a 217E.

Can you send me a picture of the radio you need? I have some early 50's radios that will be cheap.

The Frontenacs that are mentioned above by Louis and Arthur Chevrolet were reworked Model T fords. The Chevrolet Bros. made speed equipment including the Frontenac overhead valve set-up and also the Frontenac Ford Engine. The overhead valve head was available in three flavors for the 8 valve model including the "T" (Touring), "S" (Speedster), and "R" (Racing). The T was for everyday use on regular cars and light trucks, the S was for those who wanted slightly more power, and the R for the racing circuit. The R head came standard with twin stromberg updraft carburetors for that extra punch. They even had a twin overhead cam version that qulified at Indy at 88 miles per hour in 1923. An you guys thought Fords were dull..... Of course, this has nothing to do with the original question regarding the earlier Frontenac Cars.

There were two Lafayette cars. The first was built in Indianapolis IN from 1920 through 1924. They were then bought by Nash. Nash used the name again on a lower priced 'sattelite' car from 1934 through 1937.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. May just keep it or sell it, but I need to know more about it first.

Can anyone tell me about an early auto air pump? It is a four cylinder pump whose tag reads: "Kellogg Four Cylinder Tir Pump - Pat'd Oct. 1910 - Rochester, NY" It is very old, with an imput shaft that is driven by either a pully or a gear, Not sure since just the shaft is there. There are four mounting holes on the bottom to allow it to mount on a flat surface. Picture can be seen at <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/airpump.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/airpump.jpg</A> <BR> Anyone ever seen one of these???

After you are sure the cooling system is OK, be sure to check your spark. If you are running a retarded spark, the engine will cook. I have found more heating problems are related to timing than poor radiators, but I always go after the radiator first.

Not much response here, any 1 1/4" side draft will do. Thanks.

Parts Wanted Zenith HP5A side draft carburetor. 1 1/4" throat, Any condition.

Kevlar is unsuitable for dry applications because it has very poor abrasion characteristics. In simpler terms, it can't take the scuffing that occurrs when the clutch is slipped or engaged slowly. That is the reason it wears poorly in a cone clutch. Its strength is in the length of the fiber, not in the width, hence it tears. The reason kevlar is suitable in Ford transmissions, is the fact that oil is present. The oil simply lubricates the kevlar to allow slippage. Heat is not the problem in either dry or wet applications, since kevlar can withstand temperatures in excess of 1200 degrees F. Hope this short explanation helps.

Gents, I have been manufacturing Model T transmission linings made from woven Kevlar for many years. We call our linings NEV-R-WEAR and have had very good success with our product, so I think I speak from a position of experience. The one thing that makes Kevlar succesfull in a Model T is the oil that bathes the bands. In a dry application kevlar is terrible. We have given kevlar bands to owners of Model NRS Fords and they tell us that the linings rip off the bands in less than 100 miles. In light of this, I would not recommend kevlar in any dry transmission. If anyone has been successfull using kevlar in a cone clutch, then you have been fortunate, but when customers ask me for my opinion, I suggest they use leather in a cone clutch.

I remember my first trip to Hershey. I think it was in '73 and there was only the old Blue Field and three rows of vendors in the Red Field. The Red Field was across the road where the nursery is now. I haven't missed one since. I'll echo the others comments,"Be prepared for rain and mud." Many vendors realize their stuff has gotten wet before and will sell in the rain. Some of my best buying days and best selling days are during the pouring rain. If someone is willing to trudge through the rain and mud, you know they are serious...........

I don't want to burst your bubble, but the biggest selling american car in history (Model T) has a firing order of 1-2-4-3.

I don't think they are late. Seems to me, mine comes in just around Labor Day. I think I WON'T miss moving to a new field. Chocolate always looks good to me.<BR>See me at CM18-21.