impala

Yeah that's what my research says also. Interestingly I've received info from the Antique Olds club that a red top was offered on a 61 Olds 88 but I guess for some reason Chevy didn't offer it although it's the same top. Thanks, impala

Yeah I'm surprised too and the fact that other GM makes offered red tops makes me think there's that little bit of documentation somewhere that says a red top could be specially ordered. Unfortunately I may never find that documentation. impala

Pgh. is about 4 hrs. from Hershey and I did consider that but right now my work schedule doesn't permit it. In the interim I'm chasing other leads but have come up empty so far. There's plenty of info on the web about the COPO issue but so far nothing specific to my situation. I did find a statement that "any color could be ordered" but it wasn't from an authoratative source. I would like to pose the question to Alan Colvin (author of Chevrolet By The Numbers). If anyone has a lead or contact info for him I would appreciate it. Thanks, impala

I have done that and they sent me a form which I will fill out and yes I am a long time member. I was hoping to have an answer before their estimated 4-6 weeks but I'll have to live with it. Thanks for the link. impala

I have just sent an email off to the library. Thanks, impala

I definitely won't go with the wrong color. I'm still in the process of trying to find documentation that special colors could be had. If none exists then I will go with one of the two standard colors. Thanks to all who have responded. impala

I have almost completed the restoration on my 61 Impala convertible. I'm ready for the top and can't decide on color. The standard top colors are black or white. Most of these came thru with black tops (my cowl tag is T2, black) but every one you see now has a white top similar to most having 348's in numbers that GM never came close to building. According to some old timers in the know through a COPO you could get any color top you wanted regardless of what the dealer's brochure said. I think red to match the interior and side stripe would look sharp and set the car apart from all the others. BTW the body is Ermine White with a Roman red side stripe and interior. My Question: How would AACA judges view a red top on this car? I know documentation is always best but I doubt I could find anything specific to this color. Comments appreciated, especially from judges. Thanks, impala

Possibly the lock up function of the torque converter? Try to determine if there's a subtle shift after the trans goes into O.D. This is the converter locking up. Some people actually disabled the locking function or installed a switch rather than install a new converter. impala

My friend has an E320 in the shop (circa 1997) that in a collision the owner destroyed a lot of the rear end pieces, control arms, etc. We have a chance to pick up about the same year E420 and wondering if the rear end pieces will interchange. Any info would be appreciated. impala

Minor correction: 15 years old in PA for classic plates. impala

Also carefully re-check the accelerator pump adjustments. This is done with the idle screw backed out so the butterflies are closed. Then make sure the linkage is in the correct hole. A quick check in the Motors manual shows Buick using the center hole (if there are multiple holes). Then take the measurement from the top of the air horn. The number varies depending on the carb number. If not correct bend the linkage to adjust. Since the accelerator pump does nothing at speed and if I'm reading right yours does fine there so it could be the cause of your low speed problems. You need to go through all the steps of troubleshooting that have been mentioned like checking for a vacuum leak, making sure the advance is working, etc. BTW, I've never seen clear fuel filters that completely fill up. impala

Good point but I think the law about insurance applies to most if not all states. I sold a car 6 or so years ago that had antique plates and never heard a word from PA. I think at least in PA the plate is still yours and the next time you go to use it on another car you must provide proof of insurance. I'll know soon enough because I'll have a need for that plate again. impala

I think it might present a problem since the plates never come up for renewal nor expire. Harrisburg doesn't know if your antique plate is on a vehicle or on your garage wall but it's still in your name. impala

Funny you mention that. I've been using a cemetery monument company in my town for a long time to do my sandblasting on larger parts. I do have a cabinet for smaller pieces but the bigger things I don't like messing with I take to him and like you found out the price is very reasonable. impala

Nobody has mentioned it yet but how about the Fiero, especially the re-designed 86 GT's? impala

I would have thought no lube especially if the mechanism has plastic gears (not sure what you're working on). I did my 61 and there was no lube. If you want to use something to replace the lubriplate I would use white lithium sparingly. I would use some 3 in 1 oil on the bronze bushing where the cable attaches. We used to coat the actual cable itself with graphite. impala

Yes it does. Most of the body shops in my area near Pittsburgh use a guy from one of the local paint shops. He's a retired painter that now drives around to the local shops and does nothing but match paints. He did a match job for me on a red car that was perfect. Not just close but perfect. His service is free providing you buy your paints from the shop. I would call automotive paint suppliers in your area to see if they have such a guy or ask local body shops. impala

My flat rate software only goes back to 1968 but as an example (and yours should be similar) for a 68 Wildcat the labor for the chain and gears should be about 6 hours. In my area labor is about $60-$75 per hour and dealers higher. impala

So what did the new booster do for the brakes? impala

My thoughts exactly. I don't know where the OP is located but if he's near me I would love to help. The hissing noise is pretty much an indicator of a bad booster. After all that 40 some year old rubber diaphragm can't help but be dry rotted and not holding vacuum. Whether Delco, Moraine or Bendix these are available or can be rebuilt. As far as re-arching the shoes yes, that is what needs to be done after cutting the drums but I really doubt it is his problem. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought he said he had the problem before all the work was done. impala

Did you mean the engine coolant thermostat? If so I wouldn't be concerned with the 24 hour cure time if you had good mating surfaces. If your choke isn't closing when the housing mark is near the index mark then the spring inside is probably weak. It doesn't really matter as long you're able to get the choke to close and fully open when the engine warms up. Clockwise richens the choke (closes tighter) and counter clockwise leans it out. If you're not getting good choke operation pull the cover and see what happened to the spring. impala

It does sound like your choke is out of adjustment. When starting cold a pump of the gas pedal should "set" the choke in the closed position. As soon as the engine starts it should open slightly to allow air in. Then when fully warmed up the choke should be fully open. It sounds like yours is open when it should be closed. Without knowing what carb you have there should be a round, black plastic choke cover that is held in place with 3 screws. By loosening and turning this cover it adjusts the spring pressure to load the choke. impala

There is another way to check the booster in addition to what you mentioned. Run the engine for a few minutes and shut it off. Wait a few minutes and then pull the vacuum connection out of the booster. There should be a sizeable rush of air at the hole in the booster. If not the diaphragm inside is leaking. Pending availability of the booster these can be rebuilt. impala

Did you polarize the generator? Anytime you put a new or rebuilt generator on you need to momentarily jumper the gen and batt terminals of the regulator together. impala

I don't have part number references but I did have a 66 Caprice that had the pedal pads that you described. Not sure if the Impala had these. impala