impala

Very true, not a good thing! At least on the 61 to 64's they stamped a partial vin on top of the frame rail, drivers side, usually about half way back but it's very hard to find with the body on and it would not be acceptable for states as proof. The build sheet if found is useless for the state purposes because as far as they're concerned it could have come from any car. Most states can issue a replacement vin tag but you'll have to jump through a bunch of hoops. impala

Some suggestions: with the engine off look into the carb and make sure you're getting a good squirt of fuel as soon as you move the throttle linkage. If not the accelerator pump might be out of adjustment or the pump diaphragm might be ruptured. Make sure the initial timing is set properly and that it advances quickly as soon as the throttle is opened. The mixture screws on the side are used only for idle but to adjust them: Bottom them out then turn them out 1 full turn to start. With the engine warm and at a low idle turn each screw in slowly until the engine stumbles and loses RPM. Now turn the screw out until the engine smoothes and max RPM is achieved. Some use a vacuum gauge to get max vacuum but this is not totally necessary. These screws don't do anything above idle. impala

Very true statement. Even the way they attach the struts are a pain and time consuming to R&R! Anyway here's how I did the hub/bearing assembly with minimal parts removal: Removed wheel, caliper, caliper mounting bracket, rotor, cv nut and washer. I used a large dead blow hammer to push the cv joint inboard enough to get at the three bolts that hold the brg. assy. to the spindle. The cv joint wanted to come back out on its own so I kept it compressed by putting a two jaw puller on the wheel flange and the center screw pushing on the end of the cv joint. This allowed clearance to remove the bottom two attaching bolts. The top bolt was harder beacuse of less room. I broke it loose with a comb. wrench and then turned it one flat at a time while prying the brg/hub assy. out from the spindle until it was removed. This was not a press fit in the spindle but rust caused it to be a little snug. Ford could have made this an easy job by installing the bolts the other way (bolt heads outboard like GM but they didn't). The book allows about two hours for each side but I'm sure I could do the next one in less than an hour but I don't want to! impala

You can get the hub/brg. assy. at NAPA for $75 or $80 and if you can get the shop price much cheaper.\impala

Totally different animal (typical Ford (in my opinion) fiasco). Just did 1 side for a guy on a Taurus and I think I charged him $165 total parts and labor. I discovered a trick to not have to remove the CV joint entirely but it still took about an hour. impala

I assume you're not able to get a 1/2" drive air impact in there. If you are that will easily remove the bolt. If not try holding the flywheel with a flywheel turning tool or simply wedging a large screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. Remove the access cover or the starter to get access. impala

Try www.restorationspecialties.com They show a lot of trim clips in their catalog (online too). I mailed them some samples and they sent me clips that looked different but worked. impala

If you can find the guy to do it for $30-$50 I would go that route even if you have to take it to him. The Eastwood basic kit is around $43 plus shipping. It will probably do 10 or 20 windshields but you're only doing one. By the way the powder is called Rhodite not Rhodium. At the time my windshield was considered obsolete (still available but costly) so polishing was the best bet for me plus the original mfg. and date code are intact. impala

I did do the whole windshield because of some hazing that I couldn't remove with anything else. Also the windshield was out of the car which made it somewhat easier to apply the pressure on the felt wheel. If the rest of your windshield is good you could just do the wiper mark areas. There was no distortion. The kit does come with special sanding disks for removing scratches but I didn't need that. This process would probably cause distortion if done in a small area! I'm always skeptical about kits like this that are somewhat costly but this one did actually work. impala

Yes, I bought the kit from Eastwood which has a powered material called Rhodium and a heavy felt wheel. I removed the marks you're talking about from a $600 Impala convertible windshield and it worked perfectly. Be prepared to follow the directions carefully and spend 4-6 hours getting it right. impala

I used lye and warm water to strip mine, fastest result (about 10 mins per piece). I also used Easy Off oven cleaner (yellow can), much slower result (about an hour per piece). Apparently lye isn't available in all states but if you use it don't breathe the fumes and use it with caution. impala.

There shouldn't ever be pressure inside the reservoir. I did have this problem on a different make once. It was a bad shaft seal behind the pulley. No fluid leaked out but with the pump spinning it must have been making pressure in the reservoir by drawing in air. After 5 minutes of idling it would erupt! Also I think there's some type of a check valve fitting on the back of the reservoir that the pressure hose screws into. This could be stuck open. I would probably put a new (rebuilt) pump on it because they're not that costly and it's probably the problem anyway. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Starfire61</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Does anyone have any tips on how to do this? I'd like to know what Optima batteries would fit within a group 60 case & how to do the top terminal connections. Chuck </div></div> I'll look for the writeup I was talking about but as I remember is was pretty much as Bob describes it. To go further, after the Optima is in place in the old case I would maybe spray some of that expanding foam around to keep the Optima from sliding around. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bhigdog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Things like engine size (big block/small block), trans., mileage, coupe or roadster, matching numbers makes quite a difference. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: durant28</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What's is a good general media to use in a blasting cabinet? </div></div> As a cheap and readily available media I use play sand in my cabinet. It is available at hardware stores, Home Depot, etc. I also keep 50 lbs. of glass bead around for more delicate items. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Plymouthy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.even buying lye today requires a signature for anyone that cleans cast iron... </div></div> Interesting that you would mention that. I purchased lye a month ago from the local hardware to strip the anodize from my aluminum trim and there was nothing to sign or questions asked! Probably the quantity has something to do with it! impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JZRIV</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> There seems to be a shortage of media blasters in my area so perhaps I can start a little side business specializing in antique car parts when I'm done with my car. </div></div> I used these guys for plastic blasting the larger pieces, doors, fenders, hood and trunk: http://www.mmsrestore.com/index.htm It was a little pricey but they did a thorough job and got the underside/inside of all the pieces and of course plastic won't distort the larger pieces. If I recall they're less than an hour north of the burgh. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barry Wolk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Build your own. I found it very cost effective and rewarding. http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/571625/1 </div></div> I did the same thing but used TP's plans (they still sell it, item 6600-00 for $10.00). I have blasted hundreds of pieces in it for my restoration project and can't imagine having to farm all of that out. Of course I did farm out the larger pieces. impala

You'll get more info and help that you can imagine in the forums at www.chevytalk.com impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bill pritchett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just to reiterate one point. When you take the canister off, make sure you get the gasket out. Also, check to make sure there are no gaskets caught up in the top of the housing as this is a not uncommon occurence. You should only have one gasket for the filter. Also, make sure you buy a fresh filter, as some of the old one may not have the "freshness" of a new one. At lease this is what I have been told. NAPA usually has about any one you would want. </div></div> ...and to elaborate on this excellent advice, to easily remove the old gasket remove the 2 small bolts that holds the aluminum ring in place (bypass valve?) and clean that as well. impala

According to Motor's it's a 1966 Chev. 396, 360hp. except Corvette.

I was just looking thru a catalog and stumbled on the rivets you are looking for. The company is Restoration Specialities from Windber, PA. They list 5/32" X 7/16" split rivets in either zinc plate or brass plate. The part numbers are 2264 and 2265 and can be found on page 197 of their printed catalog and also the same page on their pdf catalog on line. They're $.20 each or $16.00 per 100. impala

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">nearchoclatetown--a letter signed by Edsel Ford in 1955... WOW that must be one unusual letter since Edsel died in 1943... I'd sure love to see that "ghost writing"...B </div></div> I believe there were 2 Edsel Fords, the latest still kicking at 59 or 60 years old! impala

I have the 220 volt Lincoln and it suits me fine. I also get into heavier duty welding and the machine handles it. The only drawback to the 220v is it doesn't seem do thin sheet metal as well as the 110v ones. The one secret to mig on heavier stuff is to run it hot for plenty of penetration. I think personal preference is also an issue. impala