impala

It seems if it were being promoted it would be easy to find on the site. Got it, thanks Matt. impala

In 61 and probably 65 too brake fluid was used. Normally hydraulic fluid or trans fluid is used nowadays. A complete flushing of the system as well as a pump rebuild is probably in order. The fill point will be near the top of the reservoir and full would be when the fluid is at the bottom of the hole (with the pump sitting level). The pump and reservoir may be behind a metal cover in the trunk against the back seat panel. impala

Where can the sign info be found? impala

How do you assume it's gratis? Several years back on Pawn Stars in its infancy there was mention by one of the experts about a $50 fee every time he was called in. I'm thinking it's a whole lot more now. impala

Exactly, I wouldn't use brake fluid because any little leak or seepage is going to ruin the paint or trunk spatter paint, etc. As mentioned earlier it's a hydraulic pump so use hydraulic fluid or ATF. You can't assume the pump is bad without some diagnosis. I would disconnect the cylinders at the top and operate the top by hand (this might require a helper). I bet you're going to find binding linkage which requires freeing up and lubricating every joint from front to back. impala

It was tried in my area (Pittsburgh) years ago but for some reason didn't catch on. As mentioned it probably was the insurance issue. impala

Rear main seals harden with age. If it's a rope seal it may swell or soften it a little, If it's a rubber seal it will probably do nothing. impala

If you have no other option but to use the carb I would just find an epoxy compatible with gasoline. Build it up thick on the outside and when the epoxy fully sets sand any excess from the inside of the bore. You could also lightly run a small wheel cylinder hone in the bore. There's little pressure in there so I'm sure the epoxy would hold up. impala

I used this place in Jeanette, PA about an hour East of Pittsburgh. M&P Refinishing They were recommended by a car buddy of mine. For my 61 Impala I had them do both bumpers (10 pc. total), conv. quarter window frames and vent window frames. The price was quoted at 2K and turnaround 6 weeks and they stuck to both, excellent quality and fully guaranteed. It's a smaller two brother operation that has been in business a long time. Like any plater they have a busy season and the turnaround is longer. impala

Another remedy is to hold a bar of soap on both sides of the belt. Might be short term or it might correct it. Of course be extremely careful when doing it with the engine running. impala

04C should be the 4th. week of March build date and the 2 should be "black top" where 1 would be white (at least this is how Chevy codes the top colors and I assume Buick too). impala

Just a thought. The modern fuels tend to evaporate in the carb bowls after a period of time. Either keep cranking or pour some gas in the carb. This seems to be a common problem and if that's the case start the car every couple of weeks. impala

There are two loose tags with this. One says Alemite Cross Sight Wheel Aligner, model G-330890-4 and the other says Atlas Cross Sight Wheel Aligner, model EWA-315B. They both have the identical patent numbers so I assume both were attached at one time. It appears to be all there but needs a good cleaning. The rack has a lot of rust on the chrome but I did a few spots with fine steel wool and it will clean up reasonably well. No manual but a google search turned up a few. I'm asking $200 complete or $100 without the turntables. I can't vouch for the functionality so it's sold as is. I don't want to get into shipping so local Pittsburgh area pick up or I can take it to the Reading meet, May 18, 19 as long as it's paid for in advance.

Also try the Corvair section at Chevy Talk - Chevy / Chevy Message Boards for the Chevy Enthusiast impala

I support what Susan (shop rat) said about I-van. I found them professional, reasonable and available nationwide. impala

That's correct. Only windshields are laminated. I don't understand the confusion as it's very easy to see two pieces of glass when looking at the edge. There's also a thin piece of plastic film laminated between the two pieces that's invisible until the glass is broken. The plastic is there to keep the glass from flying all over the place when broken. impala

If it's a windshield it would be laminated. Two pieces of glass glued together and very obvious looking at the edges. impala

This is a very common problem. Apparently it's the modern gasolines and especially with ethanol. The fuel doesn't leak out (unless you have a different problem) it evaporates. Some pour a little gas in the carb. I start mine quite often in the winter. impala

You can of course do that but it's not necessary. This is all you need: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices The example has 1/4" inlet and outlet but it also comes in 5/16" or 3/8" depending on your fuel line size. Slip on and clamped rubber hose is perfectly acceptable for early cars with a mechanical fuel pump. You just don't want to use this setup with newer cars that have high pressure systems. impala

No need for flaring as the fuel pump only puts out 3-5 psi. Yes, just remove and cut the line where you want the filter. Take a few inches out to allow for the length of the new filter. Go to Napa (the counter guy will know what you need) and get an in line fuel filter with the same diameter fittings as your fuel line (usually 5/16" or 3/8"). Get the one that comes with two short rubber hoses and clamps. These can be had in either metal or plastic. They're cheap and easily replaced in the future. If you can only find one without the hoses you can buy fuel hose separately of the correct diameter but make sure it's for fuel and not just plain rubber hose. impala

I bet Totally Stainless (Totally Stainless) in Gettysburg would be able to help you. I've been to their place and not only do they have a huge selection of bolts they have a shop with lathes, mills, etc. to manufacture specialty fasteners. impala

If you don't like a lot of noise go for the 1800 rpm units. The 3600's are way too noisy unless it's enclosed in its own room. I have an 80 gallon Quincy from an old gas station and it's built like a tank. Parts are easily obtained on the internet. It's probably at least 40 years old with one rebuild that I know of. As mentioned earlier horsepower is no consideration as long as it spins the pump at the proper rpm. Mine is so old it has an ancient 3 hp, 220 volt motor which does just fine. A 6 or 8 hp would make no difference. impala

I second Susan's recommendation of I-VAN. A few months ago I used them as per her referral and I was very pleased. The appraiser, an AACA master judge came to my shop, spent over an hour accessing my 61 Impala convertible and along with the appraisal gave me some friendly pointers on what to correct for the upcoming Hershey fall meet. The report that I received in the mail was multi pages with pictures and very detailed. The price for his service was very fair and my insurance company accepted it without question. impala

I would think the rebuild is fine but the length of time it's been sitting requires some work. I would drop the pan to look around. Make sure the bearings still have lubrication (assembly lube). It would be nice to get a bore scope and have a look inside the cylinders too. I would pull the valve covers and oil the rockers and finally before start up pre lube it. impala

How long ago was it built? It's not been Roman's for at least 25 years. It's now a NAPA with a machine shop in the back owned by a different family. Back in the day they were the place to go for machine work (heads, blocks, etc.) but as far as I know did very little total engine building. I would say they're competent if it's a stock engine but not so much for performance builds. impala