Fordy

I would be getting a variable resistor of around 10K ohms or more - preferably linear in its operation and connect that up. Start with it high and slowly wind it down until the needle on the gauge just moves and that is your empty - measure the resistance and then wind it down more until it shows full and measure again. Steve

Michael - check out series R Hupmobile parts - they used Houk #4, 24" tyres etc - they may well be compatible and I may be able to assist. Steve

Thanks Larry, I have all the gear to make one myself (apart from free time) Much easier to buy one if I can. I have just replied to a PM of someone who is willing to sell one of the correct dimensions {2.5 inch x 16 TPI) Steve

Ok I know this is an old thread but an internet search bought it up. It seems that George who was making pullers is no longer doing so. Has anyone else "filled the void"? I am chasing one for a 1926 series A Hupp. Steve

looks like a chain around the front hub but it goes nowhere towards the motor and if it did how do you steer without it falling off? AI missed that important part.

you have 2 x brushes off the fields that are 2 pairs in series and linked to the main stud. You also have 2 brushes to the armature. the brushes for each need to be 180 degrees apart - so field brushes are at 90 degrees to armature. One pair of brushes is grounded, and one is not - possibly you have them on the wrong way? I cannot remember if it's the field or armature that gets the grounded brushes, but I think it's the armature. Either way I have a pile of overhauled T starters here in Australia, but they are a long way from you! Steve

I was pointed towards a free system called Sketchup for doing a 3d model - much easier than Fusion 360 but I did spend a little time swearing at the computer and had to do what I wanted twice before I was happy with the results. All up it took me about an hour to do a in tank fuel gauge body for an early Franklin and a pal printed me a sample in plastic that I was happy with. I uploaded this to Facfox and got the online quote to print in Aluminium and it came in at $80. I have ordered 2. They will need threading and a minor "tickle" on the lathe. Steve

I have just placed an order for a couple of the earlier bodies to make up a very small "pre production" run. These and the previous type may become a "make to order" so I don't have a huge wad of cash tied up in "stock" Steve

My opinion is that 3d printing has advanced to the point where this is a more viable option than sand casting as once the 3d rendering is done there is no mould to make every time one needs to be done, no flash or sprues to trim off and minimal "finishing" as most holes only need threading where applicable and tolerances refined where needed. I have parts done direct to metal (Al) and was surprised just how good they turn out. If I had better finances, it would be a good business to start up as it is currently "on the ground floor". For the things I have had done I redo these as one off "print to order" if somebody needs one. (so far, a total of 3 items for Hupps). The hardest part for me is doing the drawing and I have I guy who scans originals for me. It won't be long and the local engineering workshops will probably be providing this service and do as I do and email the file to a printer for production. Steve

Thanks Steve, can you let me know what needs to be improved? The first lot of bodies are now gone and there is likelihood of getting another batch done as I am still getting asked for them. The first ones were done from a very mashed up and broken original so some of the "digital repairs" were a best guess. Steve

Thanks Paul - I have just done exactly that last night to get the dial diameter for the outside company to make. Pop it into cad as an image and take a measurement off a known area and then play with scale until it matches - Dial face came in at 1- and 3/4-inch diameter. I will probably do the weep hole as a "extra" it is not seen and does no harm. The guy who was asking for them seems to have backpedaled so if I go ahead, I will be offering them to anyone in need of one. Steve

I get the idea of polishing it is to make it look pretty but won't it end up too slippery when driving?

Just putting it out there that on the back of doing the gauge that has a common usage with Hupmobile I have been asked to do some for the pre 1922 Franklins and I have been sent a copy of one of the factory drawings. This details the dimensions of the hex across flats and corners, thicknesses and main thread type. What it lacks is detail pertaining to the diameters of the dial face and its bezel. Can someone "fill in the blanks" for me please and also supply a good clear image of the actual dial face? Most of the basic parts will transfer straight over from the later ones and I would prefer to get these ones as close as possible in appearance to what they should be. The guy enquiring will be getting exclusivity on selling this type outside of Australia & New Zealand as he is willing to order enough as a startup to make it worthwhile and will be advertising them in the relevant publications and have them at Hershey. As an edit a day later - the ones I currently do have a "weep hole" under the dial at the lowest point to allow any gasoline fumes that condense to drip back into the tank. The diagram I have does not show this feature. Is it on these earlier units?

I have sent you all the required info as a direct message. Check the top right of your screen and there will be an envelope icon (probably now with a number next to it) -click that and it will open the message - you will need to respond using the email address supplied within that message as you do not have enough posts here to use the forum's system. Steve

Good old beeswax. KISS principle. Steve

PM sent Steve

"California" Top is how they were advertised for Hupmobiles - a mate in Adelaide has one on his 24R as it was on when it left the factory - car is an untouched "survivor" with known history from new.

Glass negative and hand colored? Steve

I have actually seen and done worse! At least that is made for the task at hand - imagine all the OH&S hand wringing and tears if you tried it today! Steve

I run mine at a charge of 2-3 amps. I do no night driving in it and when not being used I have the battery on a maintenance charger. Steve

There is no regulator - what is mounted on the generator is a cut out relay. The Westinghouse is a 3-brush unit and charging rate is adjusted by moving the 3rd brush relative to the adjacent main brush. It is usually set to suit your driving habits. Higher charge rate if you do a lot of night driving etc. If the cutout sticks it can ruin the generator as it will try to run as a motor against the engine compression and burn it out when the engine is not running. Likewise, if it is stuck open and there is no output going to a load (battery or lights) it will also burn out the generator. I have swapped the internals on one of mine for a diode and on another R, I am running an A Ford one from Snyders. To run a voltage regulator you will need to modify the generator so that the 3rd brush is removed and run a wire from where that brush connects to the field connection on a suitable regulator. I believe someone on this forum makes a reg that fits under the brush cover band so everything looks original - it may take some creative searching to find his posts. I hope this helps Steve

On the front of the timing cover there is a cover plate over the front of the generator gear - your car may have its engine breather there. with the plate off and the generator loose to out slack in the chain. make some wire hooks to stop the chain dropping when the generator is removed. An alternative would be to make up a round support that sits just below the chain and bolts to where you took the plate off the cover - slide that in as the generator comes out. If you need new brushes PM me - I have had them made, Steve

Hershey is an event - car show and massive auto jumble. The organizers would be unable to give any detail on the car because they have no way to track any sales that are usually a handshake between buyer and seller. Steve

I think your best bet would be to find something that compares the dimensions (shaft diameter + length), Rotor diameter + length and commutator diameter and segment count. Starters are generally expensive to "rewind" due to the rectangular section wire - nobody wants to buy a roll for 1 job and get stuck with leftovers. I have had success reinsulating starter fields and there is a few YouTube videos of guys in India reinsulating the rotor copper bars - I am yet to try that! Steve

Some of the veteran car guys start off with a lot less. The bones of the truck were obviously sound and if someone originally made it the someone can remake it. Yes I would love to have that truck! (even in the "before" state) Steve