Crazyfamily

Ill start art breaking the carb down for a soak of the brass section tonight when I get home from work. Ill also take a close look at the Venturi block and air valve and report back tonight as well Hugh. i was able to break the bolts lose on the heat riser yesterday however I didn’t have a wrench that laid at the correct angle to remove them and could only get bite on the bolts and the wrench only gave me about 1/8 of an inch movement before I would have to TRY reposition myself and the wrench! There isn’t a whole love of room in the area that’s for sure!!!! im going to soak the hell out of the heat riser in metal rescue because the throttle butterfly/valve in the heat riser isn’t budging that’s for sure!!!! That thing is stuck solid!!!!!! anyone else have this issue and if so any tricks to breaking that thing loose??? Hugh who carries a rebuild kit or the right gaskets for this carb? I haven’t seen anyone share that info yet!

Ok so to those in the know on this carb, I guess I should start disassembling it do to its individual pieces or should I start by a good soak in a gallon of carb dip? Does anyone make the "must have" rebuild kit for this carb? I would guess that some kits are better than others so any advice on the subject would again be GREATLY AND I MEAN GREATLY appreciated!

Here are some numbers off the side of it:

Great news I got the carb off but after trying to gently persuade the throttle butterfly to break lose but no go! So I'll be returning to the car to just remove the heat riser this weekend So, who carries the best all around rebuild kit for the 1927 Marvel Carb?

Ok I tapped w a screw driver and hammer and I tried to rotate the bezel back and forth and no go!! Time to move onto something else and come back to it at a later date! Must resist hammer!

Perfect!!! That points me in the right direction, I’ll be at the car tomorrow and I’ll report how it goes!! tbanks again!!

Thats prob the issue, I haven’t been cussing enough!!!!! I knew I was missing something 😂😂😂😂😂😂 ill give the back and forth a try, I’ve been pushing up hard as shite but I’ll try back and forth as quickly as I can, it’s kinda hard to hold onto the smal bezel!!!

Disregard the “play” button this isn’t a video, but here is a pic I found of my dome light. I’m working on lining the gas tank and I’m not at the car but maybe this would help??

I think you and id get along just fine Sir! I have a shirt that says “F@ck the wrench, give me the hammer!” 😂😂😂😂

Ok so I’ve asked before and i STILL can’t get the dome light bezel to budge on the car! I’ve been told you push up on the bezel and rotate counter clockwise, I’ve tried clockwise and counter clockwise and it won’t budge! is there a trick without damaging the bezel? any advice?

awesome info, Morgan I actually just watched your carb videos a few days. Thanks for sharing them!

Thanks so much, I am going to give the four bolts on the heat riser and carb a few squirts of lube juice (rust penetrant) and then heat from torch and then try to not break anything!! i will do it this weekend when I line and paint new gas tank and rebuilt vacuum fuel pump! who has the best carb rebuild kit for the ‘27

Ok so if I understand it correctly, if I assume the intake is ok, then pull all the clips that hold on the various linkages to the throttle butterfly in the heat riser such then unbolt the heat riser and carb and they will pull away from the two pipes Brininging in heated air from the exhaust? and on the backside of the heat riser where Hugh you showed the pin holes in the inner pipe, that connection must use very short bolts if they can be removed without their heads running into the side of the engine block when removing them to remove the heat riser and down?

Great info and advice!! Let me ask you, is it easier to just remove the entire intake, heat riser, and carb in one piece or leave the intake and just remove the heat riser and carb?

Great info gentlemen, I appreciate it! the reason I mentioned removing the heat riser, my throttle is stuck in place and I was guessing the issue was corrosion in the heat riser but seeing how the throttle butterfly linkage is tied into the heat control maybe it not moving is an issue elsewhere?! ill remove the carb (fingers crossed no broken bolts!!) then disconnect the linkage to try to isolate the issue! also Bob’s carry the graphite packing?

Awesome info Hugh! Any info on easiest way to remove the carb or is it best to remove the entire intake all the way down to the carb in one step then remove the carb from the heating tube to rebuild the carb? the removal of the carb in the easiest manor is what I am confused at?!

Ok so I don’t have any of the capanion guides or shop manual books for my 1927 Standard Six yet. However I need to remove the carburetor and the heat exchanger tube that houses the throttle butterfly (please for give me but that’s what I’m going to call it since I don’t know the proper term) that houses the carb heater control system..... I AM retaining the Carb heat control weather usable today or not as I am leaving the car as it came from the factory!! does anyone know of a write up or procedure on removing the carb in the easiest manor possible? I am afraid I am going to end up taking more apart than what’s really needed since I am uneducated in this process!! Any advice is greatly appreciated, by next weekend the newly built fuel tank will be lined, Coates inside and out, reinstalled into the car as will the newly rebuilt Stewart Warner Vacuum Fuel Pump! id like to remove the carb and the heat exchanger tube as I call it that houses the throttle butterfly so I can clean and rebuild it, as soon as this is done I am planning on filling all the fluids and HOPEFULLY start the car!! again I greatly appreciate any advice on this process!! William

Interesting.... I have a quick question on the topic of Motometers, I’ve read there is a security device to prevent theft? What does this security device look like?

I used to have a green Mustang and the tag said “4U2NV” on it....

Righty tighty lefty loosey

I saw on another thread that @ k green shared the color chips for the 1940 model year Buick’s. Wondering if anyone has them for the 1927 Buick model year? photo for reference from k green’s post....

Welcome Mike! i too an brand spanking new to the game and have been a sponge since joining these unbelievably knowledgeable folks in this fine group, every question I have had multiple members have taken their time to help me out and give SOLID advice...... this place is both QUALITY and Quantity when advice/guidance is needed! Mr even a “What the heck is this!!???” moment! I got my hands on a 1927 Buick back in the Summer that had a 20 year old restoration (aside from its original 91 yr old interior) and it’s been sitting in the previous owner’s garage since 2004 when he passed away! These fine folks have been a huge asset and chocked full of quality answers for me to help me “let the sun shine on her ass yet another day” as I affectionately like to put my work toward getting the car back in running order! Welcome to the group, I too can’t wait to see your progress, Good luck on the builds! 🤘🏼🤘🏼 -Crazyfamily ”William”

Great info Hugh

We recently went through looking for a used tank for our ‘27 and decided building a new one was the way to go, test fit last night after installing filler neck, fuel gauge neck and pick up bung. Fit was perfect, now off to powder coat this week and then for added insurance I am going to line the tank as well..... good protecting inside and out! I am hoping the new tank outlives me and my kids!! good luck w the search for a good one....

Wow that’s amazing, it is beautiful!!!