Crazyfamily

Nothing wrong w it, i got the throttle butterfly free, need to put some dry graphite on it to hopefully keep it freed up! the inner pipe looks to have been replaced from the looks of the end of the inner pipe.

Looking for a heat riser in good condition for my 1927 Buick Standard Model 27, I am keeping the Carb Hearn control in place as it was from the factory. please let me know if you or you know of anyone who has a heat riser in good condition for sale. i greatly appreciate the consideration. Regards, William Crazyfamily

If if by chance you hear of one of the STOP lights coming avail for a reasonable price (I know that’s a subjective term) please feel free to let me know!! PM reply sent

Ok great news Heat Riser is out!!!!!! i did get the throttle valve /butterfly to move, it’s not actually rust, rather it’s just all gummed up big time!!!! also great news, the inner pipe has been replaced and looks to be solid as well, when the prev owner did the restoration (seems to be everything aside from interior), seems he or whomever did the restoration for him, seemed to do the most problematic areas I guess. is there a way to totally remove the entire throttle/heat control cam mechanism? It would be nice to totally break the entire assembly down and thoroughly clean each component! unfortunarely it looks like the shaft that goes through the throttle linkage all the way thru the butterfly then thru the heat control cam mechanism that I am referring to seems that it is blunt on bot ends of that shaft so unless I am not seeing it I don’t see how I could totally remove the shaft and break it down??? Am I thinking correctly? While I did get the throttle valve/butterfly to move, it is extremely stiff and only moves when the gummmednup area is hot hot hot and then it’s still tough to operate! I have the assembly soaking in metal rescue as we speak..... Bad news of the day, well besides finding out that my Oldest Son might have a torn ACL in his Knee! He has to get an MRI of it Thursday and then back to Orthopedic Surgeon! So besides that, other bad news After lining the new fuel tank I decided to run the fuel pick up line into the tank and screw it in one time, well new tank is ever so slightly different than original tank or thickness of the tank liner I put in caused the fuel pick up to bottom out and then I turned it the bottom of the filter grabbed onto the liner and when I turned the bolt on top of pick up the brass tube twisted! Tried the local hardware store but they only have copper, I did heat the line up and removed both the bottom filter piece and the top of the pick up from the tube itself, so should be easy to resolder the new line/tube onto the filter and top piece and I’ll cut tube back 1/4 inch so it doesn’t happen again! Not that I ever plan on removing the newly built and lined fuel tank ever again!!

Unfortunately I didn’t get to work on the car today as I had planned to! My oldest Son was about 2 hours away visiting a friend of his and badly hyper extended his knee so he was unable to drive himself home so the Mrs and I drove down and picked him and his truck up and drove them back, so hopefully we will be able to get him into an Orthopedic Dr tomorrow!!

I’d love to have a “STOP” light for my ‘27 Standard!!! if anyone knows of one or has one that they’d part with please keep me in mind! i am fairly close to Hershey area.....

I think from your pic pic above it answered my last posted question!! Also I had asked before but didn’t see anyone reference it, on the bottom back side of the switch housing there looks to be a metal tab that can be used to ground out something??? what is it or what does it do??

So if I remove the two nuts, u shaped bracket, and the two long all thread pieces then can I remove the back plate of the switch with all the wires still attached to it or do I have to remove the wires first label them and then remove the innerts of the switch?

As as always it feels great to be welcomed here and to be able to have gentlemen like yourselves to get good quality info and advice from!!! i am trying to learn as much as I can and I know I ask A LOT of questions so I appreciate the help!!!

Awesome AGAIN THANK YOU as you guys are a HUGE help for a newcomer like myself!!!! i am going to attempt another angle on the value in the heat riser (I am proud to say I am learning the correct terms for these parts..... for the most part!!), I am going to take a bit of metal rescue in a big cup and put the cup up around the bottom of the heat riser and throttle valve and let it soak overnight and see if it will dissolved whatever is causing the linkage to be frozen in place!!! if that doesn’t work, I have a crow foot boxed in wrench to help be able to remove the two bolts on the backside of the heat riser and have some leverage to remove the two bolts!!!

Happen to know the correct felt I’d need??

Ok so carb is nearly totally disassembled, got metering pin out and the felt collar, where can I find just the metering pin fleet collar if I am willing to make the gaskets myself? and also this hole in the metering pin, it had gunk in it, got the funk out but does the hole go all the way thru to the top of the metering pin itself?

Sounds good, I honestly don’t mind just breaking the pot metal body and rebuilding w a new body!

I know I ask ALOT of questions gentlemen but I’m just tying to learn as much as I can and be a sponge! what does this do?

Mane I can’t even get the damn lights/ignition switch out of my dash!!! tips guys I need tips on how the hell to get it out, I removed the two screens holding the “U” shaped bracket and the bracket, I have tapped on the back side of the housing carcass but no go, it won’t budge! my headlight switch is frozen in the off position and my buddy snapped off the switch lever for it so it needs to come out I guess to rebuild it!! how do I also remove the switch levers off the switch housing? and one last question, there is a “ground” tab it seems you can reach under and push on and ground it out..... what does that do?

Ok any idea what the kit cost that I need?

Hello Jon, would you a Kit ready for a 1927 Buick Standard Model 27 Marvel Carb?

Ok how and the heck do I get this out? I removed the screw and cover that goes around it but how do I remove it?

I looked on their site and it does show they offer a lot, I’ll give them a call tomorrow and find out what exactly is in the kit

I am am wondering that as well, and wondering do I even need a kit? Looks like from what I can tell and from what Hugh posted that maybe I should just clean the carb and put it back together??? id be interested in what’s in the actual kit besides a few gaskets, I don’t mind cutting my own if need be.

And the adjustment of the air valve, float, and any other adjustments...... is there a starting point for adjustment or just go by the shop manual?

Perfect.... another question, don’t worry there will be plenty more I’m sure, the top of the float bowl there is a spring loaded little pressure relief knob of some sort, what is it for?

This one Hugh? ok sounds good, I thought it looked pretty good as well, the packing you mentioned to remove before using carb soak does Bob’s anyone sell that or do I reuse what I have?

Ok so I had a few min before work to at least take the bowl cover off, take the cork float out which to me looks like when the prev owners restored this car that he replaced it. By the looks of it I highly doubt it’s 92 years old..... or at least I highly doubt this cork has been in the car for 92 years!! Hugh the air valve looks to lay flat and true to the body of the carb as well as to the Venturi block. I am starting to understand a little more of the workings of the carb, I did take your advice and got the Marvel Carb booklet from Bob’s as well as the 1927-1928 Shop Manual and a reprint of the 1927 Reference Book, I have an original one but about 1/4 of it has been eaten by a critter! let me know what you all think of these, do you see anything alarming besides crud? im going to take the Black Body apart from the brass section, clean the black portion and the carb dip the brass bowl section at least overnight.