Crazyfamily

Not to high jack the post but only because you all know I’ve been struggling w this switch and it’s on topic! i wasn’t able to remove the switch housing but I was remove the wiring plate from the back of the switch and the “tap” the broken and frozen light switch out from the back! does anyone have a blow up or assembly guide for the switch? I tried to keep each component in order it was removed however murphy’s Law I took my 100 LB chocolate lab and of course he stepped right on the pieces and then scattered everywhere!!!!!! any guidance is appreciated! The ball bearing and spring even came out! Also since my gauges and switches have plenty of Patina at this point, I need a replacement headlight switch lever but obviously a new one will look way out of place! anyone have a good used one with patina on it? Of not any advice on replacing one that looks old?

I’ll have to double check that switch then

Great news, I’m learning it’s best to walk away and come back to something that’s driving me crazy! so back down to the car and dome light cover came right off first try! bulb looks to be ok, does the dash light have to be on for the dome light switch to work? I don’t have the battery here at the car at this time but last time I tried some light it wouldn’t come on when I tried the switch, so not sure if it’s the switch, bulb again looks to be ok, or do the dash lights have to be on for the dome light to work?

Ok so I’m down at the ‘27 Buick and thinking I’ll check the compression, well just as stated above no go! My compression tester just like most others only came w 14mm long and short adaptors as well as 18mm! So I’m not understanding your fix for this @dibarlow. id be interested in seeing or hearing how I can adapt what I have to make an adaptor to fit the ‘27? As always, it is GREATLY appreciated!

Many idea who sells new gauge faces REASONABLY? i still don’t see how you can reinstall without the gauge spinning in the process of putting the cap on! the only way way that makes sense is if the locating ring , not sure the correct term for it but the thing I circled in red, is welded to the neck permanently then install the gauge, then stack the gaskets and glass and screw on the cap?? Also if someone offers a new dial/face for sale reasonably then I’d buy a new one but if not then I’ll be either soldering on brass indicators for E thru F so they are impervious to gas, or my Wife will use fuel tank coating in black to paint on the indicators.

Thanks for input and I agree..... Ok so thus locating ring, how can I put the gauge together and then screw the whole thing onto the neck of the tank without the gauge spinning In the cap itself?

Well it’s gonna have to run at an angle, when I originally took it apart the top plate that acts a keeper to hold the gauge itself in place as you tighten the cap over it and keeps the gauge from spinning, it cane off and took one to two levels of the threads w it, there is a lip that helps will lining it back up, if I solder it back in place w the lip acting as a guide then the gauge will sit at an angle which is fine w me! if I am then standing at the filler neck gassing it up then the gauge will sit at an angle facing me! i like that actually! I did find a picture of the tank when I removed it and the gauge face sat w the slit in the dial sitting parallel to the ground.....

Ok time for a quick question for clarification, I didn’t take not of the position of the fuel gauge when I took tank out! so it looks like the gauge actually sits at an angle so when you stand at the fuel fill neck that the gauge dial sits at an angle like this?? is this correct? Yes we are going to restore the gauge dial as well and paint the E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F w fuel liner so it doesn’t come off w splashed fuel OR I have another plan of maybe actually soldering on brass letters of just the E and F only onto the brushed finish face of the dial?

Front seam on tank....

Ok as many of you know I’ve been working to bring the 1927 Model 27 “Standard” back to life! We built a new fuel tank a few months ago and I just got around to lining it with KBS coatings fuel tank liner “Gold Standard” kit, I highly recommend their products! And for the money they are an incredible value but have the quality to back it up! So today starts the process of coating the outside of the tank and next weekend it goes back into the car along with the newly rebuilt and coated SW Vacuum Fuel pump! Just wanted to share my excitement and the tank.....

Good luck and I hope it works out, does anyone know where I can get a new interior kit (door panel material, seat material, and carpet for rear for a 1927 Model 27 “Standard”?

I STILL have not been able to get the dome light out of the headliner! Sometimes you just gotta walk away and forget about it for a hour or 100 hours or so!! ill try again this weekend, my goal this weekend is to remove the dome light to replace the bulb (🤞🏼 It is just the bulb!!!!) without damaging it, the headliner, or anything else! And I also do my best to remove the headlight/ignition switches out of the dash!! Wish me luck!! william crazyfamily

This is kit # VTK 101 for mine but like I said the flapper is avail separately!

Www.classicpreservation.com the kit above doesn’t have the flapper in it, but it’s avail separately from him!

Tell Hal I sent you, he recently helped me with my rebuild kit and all I can do is spread the word! He took about 5-6 phone calls from me and always called me back when he got back in!!

I used KBS Coatings Gold Standard Fuel Tank Liner to line both the inner and outer and keep corrosion to a min, i kept it away from where the inner tank meets the outer tank so no sealing issues and everything seems to work fine with reassembly. I didn't line the middle of the inner tank where the float goes into the bushing guide of the inner tank.

Here you go Simnut: https://fargo.craigslist.org/cto/d/fargo-1927-buick-opra-coupe/6814611545.html

so the next step is underway! I have removed the AC Oil Filter Housing and I will ordering a few of the filters, Fram C31P unless someone has a better recommendation for the filter it’s self, not sure the cross reference on this filter but I’ll check online before ordering the filters. i was pleasantly surprised that for sitting since December 2004 that the oil looked as good as it does, both when I drained the oil and when I took the AC Oil Filter housing apart this evening! just a few shots..... can an you tell I’m excited yet???

I rebuilt mine and while I don’t have it installed back I the car yet, that will be this weekend 🤞🏼, but after talking to “Hal” at the Preservative Society who was most helpful and beyond a pleasure to talk with, he guided me to some do’s and don’ts on what to look out for with these SW Vacuum Fuel Pumps!! Hal instructed me to take the inner tank and while holding the flap shut momentarily on the bottom of the inner tank submerge it into a bucket of water or a deep Rubbermaid container just shy of the top of the inter tank and watch to see how much if any water seeps past the flap when you let go of the drain flapper, Hal said just a little seepage is ok but no more than a tiny bit! Then also drain the inner tank of water and then while holding the inner tank down into the water the same way in part one above, tank your mouth and chin and create a seal between the inner tank and your mouth/chin and while still holding the inner tank down into the water suck in with your mouth and see if it creates a vacuum when sucking in with your mouth, no water should come in at all when you are sucking!! Did you you try anything like this!?

Did you test the Bakeilite Type flap at the bottom of the inner tank to make sure it holds tight under vacuum?

I might be interested if it’s that clean and running! My Wife might shoot me but hey a sacrificial wound might be worth it in this case huh? 😳😊😂😂😂😂 i found the listing on CL 🙌🏽

For anyone who might be looking for a coating system: https://www.kbs-coatings.com/ I am extremely happy so far with their products, only thing is if you get this stuff on your skin and don’t clean it off with thinner IMMEDIATELY then there is no removing it, it has to wear off! I got a bit on my finger two weeks ago and it’s just now wearing off my skin! for the $$ it seems like a great quality product at a fair price! Take my comments as a definite referral to KBS!

I worked on it for a bit last night and I got the butterfly free, it took a few soaks in carb dip and now I am able to move it easily, once I clean it up and get all the carb dip, grease, gum, varnish, and general crud off the riser then I’ll paint it and the rest of the exhaust manifold with some high temp coating from KBS Coatings, their stuff seems high quality! I used their tank liner kit on the new fuel tank we built as well as the S&W Vacuum Fuel Pump and also used their product to coat the outside of the fuel pump as well, I’ll be using the same KBS Coating system for the outside of the new fuel tank as well. It’s a moisture cured system so while it stays flexible for expansion and contraction of the metal tank it actually gets harder and stronger with exposure to moisture! While moisture is normally the enemy, this stuff gets stronger with exposure!