Brooklyn Beer

Now where should the hand throttle be attached to on the carb ?

So screwing out leans ?

This should help. Is the thumb screw at the front facing side of the carb the idle mixture ? I can't enlarge the picture. And what is the carb #

Love this car

That is them. I will have to get a total count but I think I need 4. A couple have has been replaced already with a small screw replacing the rivet and are black spring steel. Will get a pic in the morning. My tractor guy showed up with a bottle of Tullamore D.E.W. tonight and I doubt I could focus a picture tonight of what i have ! I really have no clue how you could break them off but someone did. The 4 caps only have one each with the broken remnants attached to the rivet on the opposing side. They don't look hard to make worst case

Inside the hub caps there are two pieces of spring steel with a tooth on each end that protrudes into the hub and holds the hubcap in place. I need to replace some. Is there anyone making these or is a self fabrication item ? Hate to loose one of these gorgeous hub caps

I have read some places it is a good swap but hope to get some input from those who have done it.

So does that thumb screw facing to front of motor control idle mixture? When I changed the old plugs out they were pretty loaded up and fouled. The far side loose throttle control still has the hand throttle cable attached to it but I cannot get it any movement out of it like you would by pulling the knob out. The knob end of the cable is toast and broke off so I need a new cable. The knob itself might have the end broke off as well but I have nothing to compare it too.

It is horizontal off the carb

Well get more info in morning. I have never touched one of these before

Looking for a bolt on usable BB1 carb for my 1932 Plymouth PA as well as a hand throttle linkage cable.

So how is the full vacuum affecting the advance as opposed to the ported vacuum? Will it affect much when I swap it around? Is the tubing 1/4 inch ?

well you can see what I have here. how will that change the advance on the distributor with it going to the carb? This carb is running very rich right now and I would like to lean things out a little.

Vac advance is routed right off the manifold directly to carb. This copper line just comes through the firewall, turns down and stops.

I am just not able to get any action from the hand throttle cable attaching area at all. Nothing seems to move on the attachment side (engine side) The foot throttle works fine. Can you tell me about the brass thumb wheel at the top right of the carb if that is indeed the mixture screw?

No, nothing like that. Just a chrome cap with a cork gasket. I just finished the preliminary investigation and I did find a broken throttle cable where it attaches to the knob and it it is still attached to the carb. But I am pretty sure I have the wrong carb as Ply33 has mentioned on another thread. I did not dig deep at the attaching point at engine side of carb but all I know is that you cannot move the main throttle foot linkage at all with the hand throttle because nothing moves at the hand throttle linkage attachment. What is the correct model carb for a 31-32 PA? and who might have one? This is what i have and I know nothing about it except it is running real rich. Plugs were fouled bad when I changed them. Gapped at .025. Is that brass thumb screw at the right top the mixture screw? Second. Found my "other" exhaust leak. Where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold is just rattling around inside the connection. I am guess I have no more flange there. Possible repair idea's without changing out otherwise perfectly fine exhaust system? Muffler wrap and clamp it down tight for now? Do they make a repair section I can buy over the counter for just the flange section? What size is it ? Next. Coming through the firewall is a small copper tube I would say is 1/4. It was painted black and runs to a rubber hose under the dash that I have not tracked down yet. The copper tube in the engine compartment though turns down and just has an open end. It is attached to nothing. What did this run too ?

Well the old girl arrived and now I start getting into things. First I need a throttle cable. It has the pull knob but not much else as far as I can tell. This would be very nice when starting the car and letting things warm up. I can just pull the knob out of the dash and poke people in the eye with it. I knew the car had not much love given to it the last years so before any road time it will get an oil change and the trans oil changed. How can I tell not much given to it? A new worm clamp fixed the old clamp on the oil pressure line that was leaking what looks like for quite sometime before the car was shelved. It was beyond easily accessible. There is an inch of dry dust on only one part of the wire wheels. I am pretty sure it has old gas in the tank but it starts pretty easy with a slight miss at idle. Fresh gas and some Berrymans along with some marvel mystery oil. Will get some miles on it and see if it starts to clean things up some. Plugs look ancient but they are correct C87's by what I read. Should they gap out at .28 or .25 ? I have read both. All lights work but no dash lights. I will get under the dash this weekend and look. Any help on bulb numbers? The switch is there on the bottom lower left of the dash. Dome light won't come on. Will get into that bulb as well. All the grease looks dry but someone changed out the old grease fittings to modern type some years ago. I think I will start out with the ones I can see tonight and then put her on the lift the weekend and go over the bottom end when doing the oil changes. There also might be a new wiring harness in the future depending what I find under the dash. I have new cloth tape to make some repairs as needed till then. Brakes felt good. E brake holds. Shifts good. No chatter on engagement. But again will need more miles on it. Anything else i should look into first thing? And the radiator cap I am sure is wrong as it doesn't get tight. It is just a plain old cap with no mascot.

Funny that you mention the "art" aspect of it. I was in a discussion about this last week with a rice burner zipper mobile fetish guy I work with who saw my 63 Dodge 880 as nothing more then old scrap metal way past it's use. I "kindly" explained to him that an old car is art in motion shared the miles over. Gawked at by many wherever it goes. Appreciated by all those who take the time to enjoy the lines and flow that makes it stand head and shoulders above the products of today. And that his fart cannon rice burner would only be achieving immortality in a few years after being fed into the recycling shredder and made into some cheap walmart filing cabinet.

Why is the leaf spring mount on the front different from passenger to drivers side? What is the purpose of the triple "shackle" and hence a shorter spring ? Anyone have a spare crank hole cover?

Like most kids my age in high school I was supposed to start out with a SB chevy. But at 16 I found this "really nice" 72 Mustang with a 351 (and not a single piece of metal not rusted from Long Island winter salt) which I proceeded to destroy through high school and sold (gave away) when I went in the Marines. But I never became a Ford guy except later in life when I needed a good diesel trk. I did tinker with camaros for a short time between tours in the service but it never stuck. Never played favorites with daily drivers. Owned and drove all makes and models. My work car is a chevy 2008 HHR with close too 300k on it and the best car I have ever owned actually. Just replaced my 97 Ford trk with a Tundra that tows just as good. But when I finally settled down and built my house and found the time to get back to cars.?, Call me a MOPAR guy. They have always been around our family history in some important way and outside having the 49 Buick to pay homage to my grandfather, a mopar always shows up in family photo's and is where I focus. And I love the blue collar heritage that Plymouths and Dodges just seem to exude. They speak of American greatness of manufacturing and what every working class family pushed to achieve. A 25 year old WW two vet working at Grumans, 2 kids, putting that down payment on a NEW Levitt home and parking the used 1949 Plymouth sedan in the driveway ? That is something I think about every time I take one of them out. The feeling of success was as easy as that in 1950's America. I have always loved the history associated with and around a car as much as the car itself. Just added a 32 Plymouth PA (31 titled as a 32) and can see why they garnered such a dedicated following back in the day when released. Boy were they quite a bit ahead of Chevy and Ford even if a smaller motor for another year. Looking forward to really learning about this car But at the end of the day I am a driver of old cars. Not a fan of shows. None of mine would even come close to concourse. But I do love driving one of the old girls to the supermarket and spending a good 15 minutes talking about them with strangers. Even better when I can load up a grandfather out with his grand kids and take them for a spin around the block.

Check and clean every bulb base and socket with sand cloth. Same with every wire connection. 6 volt systems really need totally clean grounds to function correctly where a 12 volt system might overcome it. Anything that is considered a ground clean it well and try again.

Have these been used in 30-33 Franklin head lights yet?

I had mine fire right away. Took it for a 6 m iles run and the timing still needs adjusted some as at 45 and giving her the coals she breaks up a little bit . Stupid me forget to try a hot restart to see which way the timing was off. Never a problem in my 12 volt systems so taking a chance here.

This be the same oil for the 1949 Buick shocks?

This car I am buying I am sure it has not much road miles on it the last few years but has been in the family since the 70's. Same repeat story where the owners got up in years and nobody wants "just another old car". Needs a total lube job for one and is why I ask about the clutch release bearing. Some of the more routine maintenance I am sure has been lacking just seeing that they did not want to take time to change out the blown exhaust/intake manifold gasket. So I was going to drain the essential fluids and start from scratch and of course see what is in the bottom of the pan. Going to start out with changing trans and diff oil to 140 as manual says 160. Then change the motor oil out to a high mileage 15w 40 or a full synthetic 15w40 with a little zddp added as our winters here in this part of TX can be up and down. I drive year round if it's dry regardless the temps unless a couple extreme fronts come through as happens a few times a year. But most winter driving here is above 50 degree's. (Today is 74) I want to give the old seals a little help as I drive it back to normalcy unless a high mileage oil with it's conditioners is not good on a flat 4 motor. I know whatever we put in them today is leaps ahead of what went in in the day but keep reading about the damage the wrong fluid can do with yellow metals. But I keep coming across this product on threads as well as the Penrite 140W being that 160 has been phased out it seems. With as hot as it gets here in TX I do not think a multi-grade gear oil is my best bet. Sta-Lube SL24238 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 140W SAE-Gallon, 128. Fluid_Ounces is a GL-4 oil.