drhach

Could these have been dealer installed options?

It always baffles me when people go to such lengths to present a clean car and then they pop the hood and it looks like a dumpster.

That's a great looking car. I can see why it got so much attention.

I installed an O2 sensor for tuning my aftermarket (Edelbrock) carbs. It saved a ton of guess work.

You've never experienced the swaying palms of Wyoming? It's a sight to behold.

Still looking if anyone has one.

Just curious why you want to rebuild the carburetor.

How about some pictures of the car?

Not yet, I have a set that I'm getting ready to install. I've heard that if you wrap them in teflon pipe tape, they won't squeak. Not sure about that though. I debated abotu a full set of Poly bushings, but I figured that would be triple the squeaking.

Any squeaking from the Poly track bar bushings?

I think they made something like 7,400 of that particular body style. I've seen a few for sale over the past couple of years, but never that nice. A similar Chevy would be going for way more. But I think the Buick is the better car.

Fix what's broken, give it a bath, enjoy.

Modelling was one of the ways that I got in to cars as well. I was building them long before I could drive. I tried to get my Son interested, but I don't think he's really a car guy. I had a bit of sticker shock too. But usually, you can find deals on ebay; especially for some of the reissue stuff. It's hard for me to set aside the time to spend on thigns like that right now. But I sure do miss it. Thanks for the pictures. Dan

Looks great. Will you be posting anymore videos on your youtube channel?

Here's my 42. Looks like a definite maybe.

I debated about which term was correct for the heat riser valve. I suppose I should have deferred to the manual. Mostly they talk about "heat on" and "heat off". Obviously "heat on" means the flapper is oriented in such way that it is allowing exhaust gases to move through the intake manifold heating chamber. "Heat off" means the gases are bypassing that chamber. However, there is one section of the manual where they talk about the adjustment of the valve anti-rattle spring. As I read it, the spring is meant to exert tension when the valve is in the "heat-on" position. In that paragraph, they also refer to the valve as open when the spring is under tension. I guess at least according to the manual, I was right. I had a 50% chance of that happening so I really can't gloat. Again, referring to the manual, I found that section about the key too. Nonetheless, the key that I had made didn't work in the ignition. It worked on every other lock, but that one. There are some folks who believe there should be two different keys, including those who want to sell you two different key head shapes. I think the key was lost at some point and someone just bought another ignition switch. Or the switch wore out after 70 or 80 years and they replaced it. I also thought that maybe the key that the locksmith made just wasn't a good enough replica. I tried making a key with a file and I was actually able to get it to work in the ignition. So that allowed me to pull the barrel out of the cylinder. It was my first try making a key using this method and it only worked on the ignition. I got really lucky. Speaking of luck. I was looking the car over and I found some electrical tape on the passenger side horn. Electrical tape repairs are pretty common sight in old cars. I didn't think too much of it. But as I looked more, I didn't see any actual wires going in to or out of it. I decided to remove the tape and hope that it wasn't holding the whole car together. Well, guess what? As I unwrapped the tape, underneath it all was what I think is the original key. It still had the little key code knock out in it and the code matched the code on the lock barrel in the door. This key also opened every lock except the ignition. That further supported my notion that someone had changed the ignition at some point. I'll use this to get the ignition key barrel matched to the rest of the car.

Just a couple more comments about my findings so far. Note from the discoloration on the right side of the intake manifold. The heat riser valve was stuck open. So it was constantly heating the intake manifold. I'm sure that led to drivability issues too. I was able to unstick it and it actually moves quite freely now. I reversed the spring on both valves so that that they are effectively closed and disabled (always bypassing the intake). I put some lubricant on the shafts in case I ever want to go back to the OEM setup. But for now, I don't see myself driving this in cold enough weather to warrant using them. I cut a piece of spacer out of aluminum block yesterday and I still need to drill the proper holes. This wilI allow me to get rid of that stack of phenolic spacers. I also ordered some 1/2" Phenolic and another care package from Bob's.

Hi Sebastien, thanks for the compliments. I've seen your postings about your car and your parent's car. Both are fantastic projects. Keep up the good work. As for this car, it has been quite a learning journey. The car has been sitting for quite some time. The carbs were both leaking, and the gas smelled very much like varnish. I was able to drive the car on and off of the trailer and into the garage. But anytime I gave it throttle it would bog down. Clearly there was a fueling issue to deal with. The front carb was labelled as a 528S, which is correct for this car. However, when I started disassembly, I discovered that the venturi size is actually 1-1/16". A 528S has a 7/8" venturi. So, among other things, the front and back carbs were of different venturi sizes. I also discovered two different jet needle sizes. To make matters worse, what I thought was a rebuilt 528S that I ordered online turned out to also have the larger venturi. That actually played in my favor because I have two carbs with similar venturis. I was able to find jets and needles to make it all match up. I took some pin gauges and compared every opening I could find and they all matched. So, I soldiered on. I don't know what the bigger venturis will do for my throttel respnse, I guess we'll see. Given the state of the gas, I felt it would be best to clear the fuel lines and empty the gas tank. I drained the fuel tank and then poured new gas into it. As I was pulling the nozzle out of the tank, the safety valve for the gas can popped off and shot into the tank. Grrrr! I tried to fish it out, but it only pushed in deeper. So, off came the tank. I pulled off the sending unit (which looked brand new) and was able to see the parts and got them out without too much drama. However, I discovered that the float was pretty full of gas. There were 3-4 cracks in it and I figured by them time I soldered them all, it wouldn't float anymore. I decided to coat the whole thing in a very thin shell of Epoxy. I figured worst case, I'll just buy a new one. But I'm trying to repair wherever possible rather than throw parts at this thing. Probably that means there'll be times when I do things twice. Needless to say, the float.... floated when I was done. So, I put it back in. I'm also trying to avoid scope creep with this car. I've been down that road before and a simple thing like an oil change can turn in to an engine rebuild. In spite of that, I figured while I have the tank off, I'll clean the bottom of the trunk pan, neutralize the surface rust and give it a quick spray. I really had to resist the urge to just "clean around that one corner". I picked an area that I wanted to do and just did that. It was hard to maintain that level of restraint, but I did it. I put the tank back on and life was good. So back to the carbs, I got them all hooked up. I made a new linkage for the dual front carbs and got it all hooked up. I started the car but it had a really nasty vacuum leak and was idling quite high. I think those stacked phenolic spacers didn't like being disturbed. I also noticed with the higher idle that there were tons of exhaust leaks. So, I pulled the intake and exhaust system for sealing. I also bought a block of aluminum that I am going to make into a proper spacer so I can get rid of the phenolic stack. One question I have is that the manual says no intake/exhaust gaskets are required at the head. But they were on there. I know my Nailhead doesn't need them (for the exhaust). I'm wondering what other peoples' experience has been with this. I have a set just in case, but If I don't need them, I won't use them. Regards, Dan

It looks like he was off to a good start. Good luck.

Let me know, thanks.

Hello, I'm looking for the rear carb damper I think that's what it's called), for the 41-42 compound carburetors. Preferably one that is in working order and nice. But I'll take ugly and working if the price is right. I have the carb, I just need the aluminum damper. Thanks, Dan

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Also, if you can get you kids in to owning classic cars, they won't have any money left over to buy drugs

Waldron's should have what you need. They make OEM exhaust. Sometimes NOS crossover mufflers show up on ebay and here as well. I had the same mufflers put on my car. As soon as I started it, I knew I'd made a mistake; and an expensive one. I think adding the crossover should help it out.

I could see not wanting to give up an old wrench, but the new one should be guaranteed for life too. What's the difference? It might be different if they were offering a Harbor Freight replacement tool.