56 Buick

Thanks, I thought it would be the 52-56 only but wanted to check.

Here is the photo

Hi Attached is a photo of a brake backing plate from the front brake of a Roadmaster 70 series Buick. You can see the backing plate has a round centre hole. My Century, apart from being a smaller car, has a larger square hole allowing the spindle assembly to fit through the square hole. I believe the pictured backing plate is from a '57' Roadmaster but my query is whether the pictured backing plate with the round hole is the same for the 52-56 Roadmasters? In other words, do the 52-56 Roadmasters have the same round hole as oppossed to the larger sqaure shaped hole? Thanks

Many thanks all.

The car may well have used ethanol fuel before I bought it and likely also sat without running for long periods. I have not used ethanol fuel but again the car csn sit for a while without starting. The car has petronix electronic ignition but a reason I put that system on was that the engine was running rough when I bought the car. I did a compression test and the figures weren't fantastic - cylinders varying between 105 and 135 with majority around the 120/125 if I recall correctly. The carb just seemed like the culprit as the rough idle has steadily been getting worse. One side idle mixture screw has quite limited responsiveness - I did try to blow out any sediment with compressed air but that had no effect. And it is dufficult to get engine to idle low unless I physically push the throttle linkage back against the stop despite the idle and choke settings being backed right off.

Hi all The car has a worsening idle and hesitation on acceleration. I have replaced almost all the ignition system and suspect the issue resides with the Rochester 4GC carb. I am interested to obtain opinions as to whether its best to buy a kit and rebuild the carb myself or buy a fully reconditioned unit? I have also read of opinions regarding the Carter WCFB vs the Rochester. Are the 2 units interchangeable or require alteration of manifold and/or linkages? Thanks Drew

BTW the manner in which the vacuum hose lines all connect is quite complicated. Not sure about your car but when I acquired my car the lines were all over the place. Anyway I am sure the workshop manual pictures the layout but failing that the Hometown Buick website has it.

I should point out that the workshop manual may not specifically provide info on how to fix the wiper switch but you need the manual. Fixing the switch will likely be trial and error but I suspect moving that top switch arm activates a part of the wiper motor causing its arc to speed up or alternatively have a wider arc. I would ensure the wiper motor and vacuum lines are all in good order before looking at the switch. If it is still not working then you may have to pull it and play with it to see how it operates - once you know how it works then you are more than half way to fixing it.

I could be totally wrong but if I recall correctly the top switch on the camomatic controls whether you want a wide sweep of the wipers or a faster shorter sweep. The whole switch will be vacuum operated so there should be a vacuum hose dedicated to that specific operation. It will certainly be helpful to you if you buy a workshop manual for the car. You can buy copies off ebay or better yet one of the buick parts sellers will likely sell these. I have one for the 56 and it is invaluable when owning/working on these cars. The net site Hometown Buick also has this info but there is nothing better than paper right in front of you. In regard to the speaker knob you can try the buy/sell forum or there may be a new repro available. Unfortunately, it may involve some investigative shopping (part of the fun) but then again you may get lucky. Hope this helps some.

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Thanks for the further info on possible causes. It certainly could be any one of the suggestions. I will get back to the investigation soon but unfortunately I am currently sidetracked with a motorcycle engine rebuild. I will let you know. Cheers, Drew

The crash pad is off so that certainly makes it easier to see behind the instrument panel. But it seems this will take some time to try all possible issues and complete a process of elimination. When I have an answer I will post back. Thanks

My squeak is definitely repetitive. I never really thought of it before but the torque on a speedo cable may cause touching - maybe even cause the outside of the cable to touch something behind the dash and cause the squeak. Thanks

Hi all, there is an annoying repetitive squeak coming from somewhere behind the dash while driving and I wondered whether anyone else has come across the issue. I dont seem to notice it when i take my foot off the gas and i cant see what it might be. I thought it may be the speedo or cable but that makes no sense that the squeak would stop when i take my foot off the gas as the cable would still be spinning. Any suggestions appreciated. I have the crash pad off at the moment so this is the ideal time to fix the issue if i can. Thanks, Drew.

Many thanks all.

It appears this one died early on also but I will pull the sender unit at the dynaflow and see if there are teeth... I suppose the same applies in some form at the speedometer unit end itself, as the 'turning teeth or similar' there may have issue given the cable has been trying to move the stuck unit.

As I understand it the 56 was a once off for many parts including the speedo. I have the often seen the red bar stuck and the odometer no longer reading on these cars. I am not too fussed about the odometer but does anyone know if there is a self fix for the stuck red bar (which I understand is not a bar but on a roller)? I know I can always send it off for repair but I am wondering whether there is a simple fix possibilty. The previous owner told me he attempted to fix the speedo by replacing the cable but that obviously didn't work. Any help appreciated as I have the crash pad off at the moment so I have access to the speedo unit. Thanks Drew

Apparently its almost impossible to break the rubber/court gaskets.

I just replaced the fuel sender unit gasket as it was leaking. Apparently the rubber gaskets are prone to breaking and then leaking and you need the rubber inpregnated cork gaskets. My 56 has the 'Tanks Inc' gas tank. I bought a rubber/cork gasket to suit a tri-five chev which fitted great. I also replaced the round rubber washers on the screws with flat copper washers.

Many thanks

Hi all The vent window manual regulator appears to have an issue on my 56. When the vent window is closed its almost as if the winder sits too far in because as you turn the winder it hits the decorative trim above it. And as you continue to turn the winder, the winder then spirals out leaving a gap between the winder and the door panel. Anyone come across this problem? I haven't taken it apart but I assume the regulator mechanism is worn/broken and is one of those unrepairable items. Do any of the other GM makes for that year use the same mechanism because I am guessing it will be easier to find a tri-five chev part? Any info or advice would be appreciated. Thanks Drew

Agreed re turning the shaft to see if the points are opening and closing. If there is no opening and closing as the shaft turns then there will be no spark. The next step after will be to check how it is wired up.

I didnt put it in but my 56 Century has the Tanks Inc 41-54 Buick B1 series. It is listed there under 'Buick' tanks and also in the 'universal' sections. But as suggested, check the measurements between what was there and what you are replacing it with. Good luck.

It looks to me as though the 3 blades are deeper in cross section and would likely move more water than the 5 bladed unitiui where the blades are shallower - unless its the angle of the units being different in the photo!?!

Thanks