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56 Buick

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Everything posted by 56 Buick

  1. I cannot remember where exactly I purchased the gasket I used but having a quick look on the Internet it looks like Danchuk Chevy have a rubberised cork gasket. There is a photo there and that may assist in seeing if it will suit you.
  2. Your leaking sender unit gasket setup may be different. My sender unit is on top of the tank and merely had a plain rubber gasket. My gasket was leaking. For me I replaced with a higher grade rubberised cork gasket. No more problems. My research showed the standard rubber gasket can be prone to leaking. I ended up locating the rubberised cork gasket from one of the tri five chev parts sellers - it was an exact fit for me on the 56. This may be a possibility for you, otherwise the permatex may work.
  3. Is the leak definitely at the seam because tanks full of gas will leak from the sender unit if the sender unit seal was not fitted correctly or is of poor quality. I would see if there is wet anywhere above the seam and I mean ALL around the tank. If the sender unit seal was leaking and fuel was rolling down onto the top of the seam lip then the fuel could also be rolling around on top of the seam lip to the other side of the tank until it pours over the seam lip at a low point. Just a thought.
  4. Sorry, I reread your post and the top strut is the problem which would make sense. If no has any then you may need to hunt the wreckers.
  5. Oh I see which struts you are talking about. The one in the top of the photo looks bent. I know it probably isn't but the struts in my 56 look like the strut in the bottom of your photo. Which one works better for you or doesn't foul?
  6. From memory they look like those on the 56 so should be same for 55.
  7. Can you post a photo of what you have. FYI the 56 strut comes out and around and is not straight.
  8. Have a look at the Hometown Buick site for the 55 as there will be a picture of the brake set up including the hand brake strut. That will confirm whether you have anything original.
  9. I have finally got some pedal after replacing one of the rear wheel cylinders. Appears to have had a slow leak I didn't notice. After continuous bleeding and the inevitable dripping it seems I didn't notice the leak. I will change the other side as well but for now there is progress which is good. Much appreciate all the input everyone had as it was all useful. Thanks, Drew.
  10. In the photo you can see the 2 lines held by clips with a bar attached to block. Hmmm dirty done there.
  11. I can confirm the wheel cylinders are fitted the correct way As Willie says, there is only one way backing plates will allow. Anyway, after a bit of Googling it appears that these cheap aftermarket wheel cylinders can have an issue where the bleeder screw never locks off correctly and can allow air in. I will find out soon, after I fit new wheel cylinders and bleed.
  12. No, not at this stage. Pedal going to floor but I will see what happens on changing out the wheel cylinders. Can't see obvious leaks but hey, maybe that is the problem.
  13. My reference to clamping the shoes was me using a large woodworking G-clamp to stop the shoes expanding. In other words, give the shoes resistance to replicate having a less worn brake drum or oversize shoes. I did this on one of the wheels only, that being a wheel where I suspected an oversize shoe may help. The pedal firmed up some but only while I had clamped off the rear line brake hose. When I released the clamp on the rear brake hose then the pedal went bad again. I think that possibly confirms there is an issue in the rear line/rear wheel cylinders. If I simply adjust the sh
  14. I did notice that the wheel cylinders do expand with operation of the pedal but they appear to have no holding force as you can spin the drum with effort. That is what made me think I required oversize shoes. You are correct about the oversize shoes not being required because I then clamped the shoes from expanding and it made no difference. If I clamp the hoses then the pedal firms up but no obvious leaks on the wheel cylinders. I think all I can do is replace all the wheel cylinders and see what happens. I am at a loss.
  15. Still having no luck with this. I cannot see any leaks and the system is bled and anchor pin set but the front drums won't bind on depressing the pedal. The drums have been turned to 12" 40 thou but I have new standard shoes. Is it possible it requires 30 thou oversize shoes at this drum diameter? Any experience would be appreciated. Thanks
  16. Thanks, agree the anchor pins properly centreing the shoes is crucial but I have done these. I am going to clamp the 3 rubber hoses and see if the pedal firms up. Should tell me whether the problem is after or before the hoses, that is it is not the wheel cylinders.
  17. Thanks Willie. I will see if I can find something. I have been using an assistant but it will not pump up at all. I am going to try a vacuum bleeder I bought and see if that helps. It has me stumped!
  18. Couple of photos of the shop manual showing the check valve location and configuration. My understanding is the check valve itself is supposed to stop fluid being drawn back to MC. In regard to process of bleeding, I fitted the MC and all new lines and filled MC with fluid. Bled the MC at the MC outlet port. Reconnected the MC to check valve line and then bled each wheel cylinder at the bleeder screw - starting from closest to furthest from MC as per the shop instructions. Brake pedal will not firm up. If I isolate the MC by plugging the outlet port then pedal is rock
  19. Anyone ever had difficulty with their brake bleed. Rebuilt master cylinder and all new ss brake lines / rubber hoses. I also replaced all wheel cylinders a while back. I also took apart the check valve that distributes fluid between the front and rear wheel lines. Have fluid coming out all 4 wheel bleed screws but brake pedal will not firm up. Any ideas?
  20. Went with InlineTube preformed set. All lines now in. Most difficult part was really just working under the car when it is on jack stands. You do need to think about the best way to get some of the lines in but I would say it is certainly worth the extra money for the preformed lines.
  21. Mmmm that line is the next one to tackle. I will let you know!
  22. Okay, I think I have solved the issue with this particular line. You have to come from under the engine and rear of the crossmember. Then do a bit of bending to make it fit. BUT STANDBY as I am sure I may reqiuire some help with another line.
  23. Hi all, does anyone know the trick to getting the replacement brake line in that runs along the front crossmember? It runs from a junction block on drivers side across to the front passenger side wheel cylinder flexible hose. It looks as though I need to remove the radiator to even have a chance of feeding the new line into position... help please.
  24. Stainless steel or OE steel? I believe OE steel is tin plated outside and inside? And the tube and easier to bend if necessary?
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