56 Buick

In case anyone is interested there is a no reserve 56 4 door Century currently listed on Hemmings auctions. 8 days or so left on auction and current bid $2000. Not a bad original looking car. I will see if I can post a photo but so far having limited success with my phone in doing so.

For some reason, which I am yet to explain, my car did a similar thing and used to pop and carry on. Spit dark soot out the exhaust but smooth out with higher rpm. Stopped after I purchased NOS non-resistor plugs. Not saying that is a fix for you but sure sounds similar.

No direct experience but it could be a myriad of possible things. Start with the simple things and go from there. I assume you have the shop manual? If it is intermittent then it will be more difficult to find the fault but I would start with a test light or similar and start confirming where live power is getting to. The shop manual will show you how the power travels. Follow the path and check firmness of connections as you go. This could be something as simple as a connection issue with the ignition key to an issue with the starter solenoid and anything in between. I know the nuetral switch can require adjustment and if that was out then that could be affecting the ability to start but a simple test would be to bypass that switch and see what happens. I have tackled similar electrical issues so I certainly don't envy you but you will find it eventually. Someone else will chime in with some more ideas but let us know how you go.

You could also do what I ended up doing which was using oversize brake shoes. That will take up much of the difference.

Someone will correct me if I am wrong but the bumper is a Special/Century but to suit the optional dual exhaust tips. I would agree there have been new inserts at least.

Certainly a lot of work done on that car.

Finally got it sorted and working as it should. Many thanks again. Drew

Thanks guys. Okay, I will confirm the colours of the wires and routing but it sounds like there is something wrong.

Thanks John, that is the same picture I tried but apparently failed to put in my post. And it is the picture that has led to my confusion given my car has both wires going to the ballast resistor.

Hi all Hoping someone can assist with the routing of the wiring going/coming from the accelerator vacuum switch that sits on the side of the carb. On my car the 2 wires connected to the accelerator vacuum switch both run to the ballast resistor on the firewall of the car which doesn't make sense to me given the below wiring diagram for the 56. If anyone can tell me where the wiring off the accelerator vacuum switch in their car is going that will likely assist me figuring out what is going on. Thanks Drew

There are also much stronger loctite products made to fix bearings in housings, etc. It would never come out. But I am not sure it would be appropriate unless you can be sure you can easily get the bushing in place before the product starts gripping or you would end up with the bushing half in and half out.

Anyone know whether you can use the later 90 fin aluminum drums in the same way?

Apologies, I just reread the post again and I see you got around this issue by using the older hubs into the 58-60 drum.

I did look at swapping the 1958-60 drums onto my 56 but after looking at the cross-sectional diagrams from respective shop manuals, it appeared the spindles were different to suit the different hub assemblies. Am I wrong about that then?

Thanks guys. Certainly very faded in spots and the backing is starting to crumble. Heel pad is sewn in and the structure or fit has been made by cutting and sewing. Definitely not a heated mold fit. Hard to tell for sure but looking at all the piles available this carpet looks most like a roughed up daytona pile. Either original or something still very old.

Hi all I am interested to know whether anyone is aware of any tell tale signs or things that will tell you whether the carpet is original? Thanks Drew

I have seen the shells covered in vinyl to make them more aesthetic. Just an option.

As you rightly suggested I found an illustration for the 56 and it does show a return spring sitting under the accelerator pump. I will have to check whether the shaft of the pump is solid or instead a sleeve over a lower shaft. Thanks

Hi all, hoping someone can please let me know whether there is supposed to be a return spring sitting under the accelerator pump on the Rochester 4GC being used on the 56. This is not the spring sitting around the stem of the accelerator pump but a spring that would sit under the pump? Thanks

Can you contact the tank manufacturer and find out the thread size?

I am going to just suggest the importance of level flat ground over the entirety of the car. If unsure how this may be affecting the heights, you could use the same floor but turn the car around and see if the height issue remains. Just a thought. Always a difficult task when the issue is not apparent. Good luck.

I cannot remember where exactly I purchased the gasket I used but having a quick look on the Internet it looks like Danchuk Chevy have a rubberised cork gasket. There is a photo there and that may assist in seeing if it will suit you.

Your leaking sender unit gasket setup may be different. My sender unit is on top of the tank and merely had a plain rubber gasket. My gasket was leaking. For me I replaced with a higher grade rubberised cork gasket. No more problems. My research showed the standard rubber gasket can be prone to leaking. I ended up locating the rubberised cork gasket from one of the tri five chev parts sellers - it was an exact fit for me on the 56. This may be a possibility for you, otherwise the permatex may work.

Is the leak definitely at the seam because tanks full of gas will leak from the sender unit if the sender unit seal was not fitted correctly or is of poor quality. I would see if there is wet anywhere above the seam and I mean ALL around the tank. If the sender unit seal was leaking and fuel was rolling down onto the top of the seam lip then the fuel could also be rolling around on top of the seam lip to the other side of the tank until it pours over the seam lip at a low point. Just a thought.

Sorry, I reread your post and the top strut is the problem which would make sense. If no has any then you may need to hunt the wreckers.