dustycrusty

The gasoline heater was optionally installed for the discriminating driver who felt they werent getting ENOUGH oil mist and carbon monoxide into the interior compartment from the standard heating system! They were usually installed in the trunk...

Ford "FE" big block- 390, 406, 427, 428 etc.

here's a 1907 Cadillac model "K" https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/sj12/st--john-s/lots/r150-1907-cadillac-model-k-victoria-runabout/280652

I think you have 1950-'51 Pontiac rear running light housings

Damn! you beat me to the Bic! The other things are: 1) a slab of oak 2) a Burger King napkin 3) a set of top-of-the-fender trim pieces that look like the never photographed in any useful detail parts the 1966-67 Dodge Monacos sported .Is there a part number underneath?

Sure! take your pick, Johnny Cash https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4-uoUpN1c4 or Rhonda Vincent & the Rage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmg6lZayrE

Orange Blossom SPECIAL!

drop an AOD in it and you'd have quite the sleeper! Too bad it isnt set up for a stick- a T-5 be a slick set up too

It looks like Mr. Ide had a brand new 1911 Thomas!

Sweet! With a 289 shoe-horned in no less.....

a four barrel carburettor spacer. Those little propellers were supposed to further atomize your fuel droplets giving you 100 more horsepower and 40 more MPG! Not sure what the little grille on the side did, but it must have been equally amazing.....

Body parts are extremely tough to find in the U.S., but it shared a common engine with the early Pinto (1.4L) so you can get mechanical parts, including some performance bits! The example you found was probably built in Cologne, Germany, but a few built in England made it to the U.S. as well- the first generation Capris (ultimately there were 3 versions) were based on the Euro-centric Ford Cortina. Got any gear-head , scrap-yard scrounging friends 6+ time zones ahead of the Newfoundland? That nasty hue of brown paint is nothing a gallon of "Safety Yellow" Rustoleum and a couple of brushes couldnt cure! https://autopolis.wordpress.com/2018/06/24/1970-1974-mercury-capri-fords-other-pony-car/

Apparently! It sold at a Bonhams auction in 2014 for 11,275 USD: https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/21929/lot/316/ The google street view is from 2015, at Bridgewater Repair & AC/DC along Rte.#1 in Bridgewater, Maine, USA

The lack of frame horns (those are friction shocks extending beyond the front axle) seems to indicate a 490 Chevrolet

I thought the same thing! A dual Archimedes screw type drive, somewhat likethe pontoons in this Fordson Snow-Motor video (sorry about the soundtrack...) WARNING! THREAD DRIFT!!

Look for the rest of that 1957 Chevrolet! It is a hood trim spear

notice the unique "dropping" body line on the "STUTZ" between your Grandfather and his buddy. Heres a 1911 Huppmobile "20" showing the same stylistic flair

Here is an image of a similar engine from a 1905 Gale Automobile made by Western Tool Works of Galesburg, Ill., USA from 1904 until approx. 1910. Quite a few manufacturers supplied engines to early Automobile manufacturers, which in many early examples didnt make the individual components necessary to build a complete machine and simply assembled their finished product from various parts (engines, transmissions, front and rear axles- even bodies) supplied by other shops. Whatever machine-shop jobber supplied your engine to its ultimate (automobile) destination probably had a hand in building the ones that Western Tool Works bought as well. The oilers appear to be Lunkenheimers. They did beaucoup business as a top-quality supplier of oilers and carburettors to the late 19th and early 20th century industrial boom.

possibly a 1909-'12 Huppmobile model 20

The beadwork on the leggings is a Lakota Sioux pattern. Here is a picture of Lakota Chief Sands Rock who performed in Buffolo Bill's Wild West Shows with a similar design

Depends on the manufacturer -- by your name a Studebaker President 8? It looks like they went to a pressurized system in 1941, so a cap with a 3-7 lbs pop-off pressure is required. Even in an unpressurized system there is a modicum of pressure. As your coolant heats up it will expand slightly- the hotter it gets, the more it will expand until it gets hot enough to cause some liquid to separate into a gaseous form (the bubbles in boiling water). Pure water will boil at 100C/212F at atmospheric pressure, but pressurizing the system (and using coolant additives) will raise the boiling point of the coolant, hopefully beyond the operating range of the engine it is attempting to cool! Non pressure radiator caps allow the coolant to escape the upper tank as it expands beyond the height of the neck, a pressurized cap will keep the coolant contained until it hits a pre-determined release pressure. If you want to pressure test a radiator, I probably wouldnt exceed 3 lbs PSI- use the rubber stopper and plunger pump type tester with integral PSI gauge or drill an old cap , install a Schrader valve in the hole and give it a few pumps with an old-fashioned tire pump- OR take it to a radiator shop and have them do it while you watch (they're insured....).