1939 Studebaker, 250 cu. in. flathead 8cylinder, 3 1/16" bore. Installing new rings, Studebaker manual calls for .013-.018 Piston Ring end gap. Does that mean .018 at the top of piston travel and .013 at the lower end of travel? I'm new at this.
They are for a 1939 Studebaker President Flathead 8cyl. Stude part number 184478, N.O.S. only. Bolt shaft is same size over it's length with a washer less head. How many do you have?
Saw your response, went to the shop, put together this set-up and let her rip. The upper brass tank had a 1 1/2" hairline crack. Used propane torch and body solder, 30/70, NO LEAKS! Thank you!
Thanks for the input, think I'll go with maybe 1+ lbs of pressure. You guys are a fountain of knowledge, now can someone direct me to the Fountain of Youth?
How much, if any, cooling system pressure should a late 30's early 40's flathead, straight eight have. Trying a DIY radiator repair and thought I'd pressure test it with air, WITHOUT blowing it apart. Any Help?
Can someone explain the timing marks on my 39 Stude 250 cu in straight 8. UDC 3-6 about 4" around the balancer, UDC 1-8 about 2" away INOP 1-8. I know UDC= TDC
Have a 1939 Studebaker 250 cu. in. 8 cylinder flathead to rebuild, not running. What is the rotation direction of the Crankshaft, from the front or rear of the engine?
Thanks All for the input. Looking at the squished remains of my body mounts ( my cars, not mine ) it's hard to tell what they are made of or how thick. Was kinda was hoping all would be the same.