Wheelmang

Water inlet gone.

Thanks keiser31: Those do not look like they are tall enough or big enough around to stop the problem though. It did however give me idea that involves some heater hose. Would look a little ugly but not as bad as the streaks going down the side of my freshly painted engine.

Visited that display while it was still Harrah's and remember the Hitler car.

I have temporarily had to park my 26 DB outside while completing work on another vehicle. Every time it rains the area around the spark plug bases fill up with water. I presume this is coming in from the hood hinge. Was there any kind of sealing that was original that prevented this or is it just something I need to live with whenever it is forced to have the hardship of the real outdoor life? Thank Paul

Guess I am now confused as to what year my 6V engine is. The car VIN number of A716963 makes it July of 1926. The block number is B772-667. My presumption from the prefix is a "B" series engine. So the lingering question is there any way to tell if my engine is original to this car? I have some ownership history on the car but no maintenance history.

I cannot imagine painting that beautiful wood grain but then I enjoy some wood working from time to time. This will never be a Concours candidate car so I guess if we like it, it's good.

Just looking at your picture again - do you have an air intake manifold assembly (probably wrong terminology) on the passenger side that goes to the area in the middle of the engine? Mine fits over the exhaust header that you see in your picture but I did not see any place for the mounting bolts on your picture. It has an internal butterfly type adjustment for hot and cold that I believe is for ambient whether conditions. I think from some past posts that we have the same year car but yours is a Deluxe. I wonder if this is another variation like the ignition switch was? (Pay no attention to my make shift heater hose set up. My heater is leaking so needed to bypass it.)

His reason for selling "too old to finish". Guess he is in his 30's?

I assumed mine were painted silver. Once again the lesson of never assume. Upon closer inspection I believe mine are actually zinc.

Mine does not have a tube. There is just a plate on each side of the engine with a hole for the carb intake and air intake. They are held in place by a long machine screw. I may have a spare set if you need them.

Interesting topic. I have some 200+ year old chestnut that is under consideration for the running boards on my 26DB. Fantastic grain. I was thinking I was an island on the idea. It will be a while but am now definitely going to proceed. I am not all that concerned about the remote occasion that they will get wet other than washing. Thanks for the inspiration. Paul

Starter and distributor sold.

It will be a while before I get to it but I have noticed in various pictures of DBs that there is a wide variety of colors on the rims. Mine are currently painted silver. When I get to refinishing the wheels and rims what color should the rims and rim clamps be? Thanks Paul

Distributor, and starter sold.

I took my wife for our maiden voyage today. Almost a year after bring the DB home from Minnesota. She loved it! (me too) Wasn't a long ride, just to a friends house. Foot brake kinda slows it down, emergency will lock them up. Really steep hill on a dirt road to get back to my house but handled it just fine in first gear. Vacuum tank fixed. There really wasn't anything wrong with it just the mechanic who reassembled it after cleaning and at least 6 times after that. Just in case anyone else may be ready to give up on their tank, check to make sure the needle on the bottom of the float in the inner tank is centered in the hole in the bottom of the tank. If it is not, it is quite easy to reassemble the tank with the needle not in the hole. The end result is the float is all the way to the top of the tank and it shuts off the fuel supply just like it is supposed to when the tank is full of gas. Thanks to OLDCARFAN. Tim insisted on not giving up on the tank. Now I have a brand new, never been used electric fuel pump in stock. Next project (after finishing the paint job on my wife's car) is a compression test. I made an adapter for my compression gauge out of one the old plugs. Did not see one in the Snap On listings. After that drop the pan and plasti gauge the bearings. At least one is knocking. Oh, and the steering - it has a mind of its own. Thanks all for your great guidance in helping to get to this day. Paul

Found it - 1992 Chevy 1500 van, southern vehicle, no rust, 120,000 miles $500. Parked since 2003. Injector mainenance, clean fuel tank, oil filters etc., and tune up and good to go. Thanks for all the feedback. Paul

A couple of comments were made about some thinning on the primer. That makes sense - post error. I did read the TSB on my particular primer and there were no suggestions or recommendations to that effect so a couple lessons learned. 1) check the tip size before starting. I have a 1.8 that I should have used for the primer. 2) In some (most) cases the experienced people on this site know more than the TSBs. Also just for chuckles - the threads on the bottom of my paint can that attach to the base mount on my paint gun is left hand thread. (WHO KNEW) I guess the gray primer will wear off my hands in a couple weeks and the huge gray blotch on my shop bench and floor will be a reminder the next time I have the gun out. Oh and in the middle of that mess I stepped on one of those sticky mouse traps. Would have made a great You Tube moment

Just me talking Bill but go for it! Even with the mistake on the primer "I did it" not someone else working on my car. When any of my restoration projects are complete there will be the personal satisfaction (with much guidance from everyone on this site) that it was done by me (no ego here just personal satisfaction) including all errors, mistakes and corrections. How may times have you had to take a vehicle back to a dealer / repair shop because the problem is still not fixed. At least we can make the mistakes and correct them ourselves - and the labor rate is?

So as I said it has been a very long time since I painted a vehicle. Total novice with an HVLP so OK to laugh at what may seem some basic questions. I have extreme orange peel in the primer. I tried various pressures at the inlet with various adjustments to the air and paint out. Finally got the best coat and pattern on the 3rd coat with both air and paint wide open but was running close to 40 PSI at my inlet. From everything I have read that is a lot of pressure for an HVLP gun. (Especially when it says 30 PSI max on the gun) I found when I was cleaning up afterwards that the gun had a 1.3 tip. Would that have caused my orange peel problem? Again from what I have read the gun should be at something around 10 PSI and I think that is what the data sheet recommended?? Is that for paint and clear as well? I am thinking I should have saved a lot of reading and just ask the questions here. So here come a couple more. Sanding primer with 180 then 220 (or more) with a DA or by hand blocking? It took two quarts of primer for three coats. It's a convertible. My base is a 1 - 1 mix so does that mean the two quarts is enough for up to six coats? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to that many coats? Maybe just save some for what ever may come down the road. Color sand only the final clear coat 1000 up to 2500 wet? How long after is it good to sand? Should the clear coat be put on the same day as the base or should I wait a couple of days? A lot of questions but I think you guys are better than the books!! Thanks Paul

Thanks all for the feedback. Perfect temps today so spraying the primer. Bad day for painting tomorrow so hope to get the coats of primer sanded and car cleaned up and remasked tomorrow or Sunday and then the next good temp days will get to base coat and clear. Will post a few pics when all done. Not going for Concour quality just a pretty car. I did take off everything I could though. It has been 40 years since I tackled a full respray. The last one was a church bus. That took a little more paint than what I am using here but was probably a lot less work that what is put into this. Thanks again for all your valued input. Paul

I have a couple of engines from mid 20s Dodge. Not sure about big 4 but one is 6v and the other 12V. Will get some pictures for you later tomorrow.

Thanks Bob. Yeah it’s a Jag and my wife’s so guess you answered it. Put a lot of hours into it so far so guess what’s a couple more weeks waiting for some more optimum temps and the time to remask?

Finally got to painting my wife’s car. It is sanded and all the little dents dings and scratches are filled in or feather edged out and the entire car is blocked smooth. Looks like some favorable temps starting Friday to Sunday. The plan is prime, base and clear. It is not a high build primer. The question for all the painters out there is do I need to sand the primer before laying down the base coats? I hope not. Cannot stand the masking and sanding another coat means remasking after the sand and wash. thanks all for the help Paul

The starter mounts in an eccentric bushing. It looks like it allows for a lot of adjustment for a loose chain.

Looks like I will be dropping the pan in the next few weeks. What clearance should I be shooting for? Thanks Paul