Wheelmang

I presume it somehow got lodged in part of the grease retainer. I am not real sure as it fell to the floor when I pulled the wheel off. The wheel would only rotate a few inches. Guess the PO was exaggerating a little when he said he had driven it before putting away the last time.

The nut had way more than 150 lbs. spindle is a taper. The washer under the nut was also galled up pretty bad. It is a tapered spindle. Myers did have a used key and it is on the way. I will look for your other cautions. Thanks for your input.

My 26 DB pushed awful hard when loading and unloading so the logical conclusion was the brakes were frozen. I put the rear end up on jack stands and sure enough the left rear was pretty much locked up. See the pictures for what I found. My theory is, the PO did not see the need for a cotter pin the last time the wheel was off. This resulted in the nut over tightening with the resulting failure. Wheel bearings, key slot and all other components are fine. The wheel bearing is cleaned and the axle is reinstalled with appx. .005 end play. I hammered the grease retainer back to an acceptable working condition. However before reinstalling the wheel (after finding a new key) could someone who knows a lot more about it than me please comment on my theory? If the missing cotter pin is not the problem what else should I be looking for. Does anyone have a source for the key? I looked at Myers and did not see any. It appears to be 5/16" brass? Thanks all for your valued input.

Thanks for the offer Roberto but my car is a 6 V.

Looks like the general consensus is happy wife - happy life. I especially like the suggestion of an anniversary gift. Anniversary number 50 is right around the corner. Guess what she's getting. (In addition to something yet to be named that I am sure will cost considerably more than a horn)

OOGA

Need to go to a radiator shop anyway so will see if they can have any better success than your experience. Nothing to lose I guess.

That was my favorite TV show because of Edd's teaching. I fast forward through everything else. It was especially good when they finally started giving Edd a little credit by posting the labor hours in addition to the costs. VERY DISAPPOINTING. Edd needs to start his own show!!

Mine is the 6V and I am finding it difficult to find one with out taking out a second mortgage on the house.

I don't know if I can handle it but my wife is the one who wants the horn.

As best I can tell the only thing missing on my 26 DB is the horn. Otherwise it is completely original. Would it be a sin to put a Ford ahooga horn on it?

WOW - I knew this was the place to ask the question. Thanks all for the education. I have a good friend who taught welding at a VoTec school so looks like that will be the direction if it does not come clean with a chemical flush.

Got my 26 DB fired up yesterday for the first time since I have owned it. I used an external fuel source as the tank on the car smells like varnish. I believe it is the original tank with what I read some where has a lead liner?? The question is - what is the recommended means of cleaning out the tank? At 58K miles on the car it does not look like it has ever been off and if at all possible I would like to keep it that way. Thanks all for your input. Paul

Anyone have a 1926 Georgia Tag (license plate) Just found out that GA allows the use of original year of manufacture tags for antique cars. Would look cool on my 1926 DB. Also looking for a horn for same.