Bloo

I don't know if they are the "best" or not. I bought a 1936 Pontiac kit from them fairly recently. They will want details (specific numbers from specific places) off your old pump to make sure they are sending you the right parts. The instructions they provided were from some very old publication, and covered a bunch of pumps. They were the most complete fuel pump info/insttructions I have ever seen. There was even a small footnote about a running change on the diaphragm shaft seal back when the pumps were new. I did have it apart twice. The kit came with a newer (and much better) type of diaphragm shaft seal. This is a totally non-critical seal. I tried to use the newer style at first, but wound up using the original leather washer stack in the end. Parts provided are ethanol compatible (according to them). I was very happy with what I got, and will definitely use them in the future.

It is time for a rebuild. Fuel pumps of that age were usually rebuilt locally rather than replaced. Fuel coming out the hole means the diaphragm is leaking. The diaphragm rubber may have cracked, or it could even be an original cloth one. Modern gas seems to wash the sealer off of those. These guys have the internal parts, and maybe also rebuild? I am not sure as I have only bought parts from them. You would have to call and ask. http://www.then-now-auto.com/ Bob's probably have something as well: http://bobsautomobilia.com/

Fiber gears were around LONG before the 60s. I think you just lost one. The trouble is, a camshaft is constantly rocking back and forth with relation to the crankshaft, with a lot of torque, due to the action of the valvesprings against the cam followers and lobes. It really is a violent motion, and there has to be some backlash so the gears do not tear themselves up. The large gear rocks back and forth against the little one and makes a knocking noise. With minor wear, it gets really loud. FIber is a "dead" sounding material, and is used because it makes less noise. It has been around since at least the 20s and probably longer. Anywhere there is a gear driven cam in a passenger car, you will probably find fiber. They still have to deal with all that banging around, even though they do not "ring" like a metal gear. The life of a fiber gear is rather short, and the failure sudden. Later Pontiac flathead engines use a chain and sprockets. I am guessing yours uses gears. @Tinindian will probably know what is in there.

Is there some way I can upvote this about 347 times? LOL

This has a torque tube rear axle. it *is* the rear suspension. This would be tough, tougher than a Buick for instance. You will need to replace the entire rear suspension, and will have nothing solid in the right places to attach the new suspension to. Nashes are unibody cars from about 1938, so no frame. Somewhere online there were pictures of an open driveline swap on a Rambler Classic from about 1963. They seem to have disappeared. I was able to find a couple of pictures of other cars, but neither looked strong enough to me. Don't forget about the torque reaction on the rear axle. The Rambler Classic (and derivitaves like Ambassador, DPL, etc.) through 1966 were the last vestiges of the oldschool Nash driveline and suspension design. Look for other examples through 1966 (Big Ramblers, not the American). It wont be the same exactly, but it will show you what issues you are up against. It would be MUCH easier to keep the drivetrain stock.

Trash bags (folded up) make pretty good turntables to put the wheels on. Jack stands do work great for the string. You will need to space the strings out from the wheels with something because the bodywork will be in the way. I used oil cans, but they don't make the right kind of oil cans anymore. You'll need to find something of a predictable size. It really helps to know ahead of time that your wheels run true. 2 cans per side at the back and careful positioning of the strings will show you if the rear axle is pushing straight, and if it is the toe can be measured from the strings. You can also put 4 more oil cans up front and realign the strings if you want. Most cars have a slightly narrower track in the rear, so with the steering straight ahead you should have equal gaps at the front cans on the back wheels, and more equal gaps at the front cans on the front wheels. Toe in for most old cars is specified as a linear measurement of "total toe" in inches instead of degrees per side. Don't forget to add the sides together. It really should be measured up at half the tire height, but short of making a giant makeshift caliper to measure it directly, (not a terrible idea) you may have to fudge this a little. If you have radial tires you might want to run less toe than stock anyway, maybe half or so. The whole idea is you never want to be toed out at speed. The toe in compensates tor tire drag trying to toe the wheels out by loading the steering linkage and suspension. Radials drag less, and need less compensation. If you use less toe and the car doesn't dart all over the place at speed, you are fine, and the car will roll easier, and the tires will last longer (it should drive fine with the stock setting if you prefer). Getting the toe set is pretty easy. Centering the steering wheel is harder. Even with an alignment rack it often takes more than one try. Just get the toe right, then make identical and opposite changes (and drive it) to center the wheel. Recheck the toe to make sure it didn't change. Camber is just how far the tire leans in (negative) or out (positive). You can quick check it with something straight (like a level) and an angle gauge. Caster is a bit more difficult. Magnetic caster gauges are great if you know anyone who has a set. They stick to the front hubs. You turn the steering 20 degrees each way to make the measurement. The gauges do this by measuring the camber at 20 degrees in and at 20 degrees out, and then calculating. It is also possible to measure camber at +-20 degrees and calculate it manually. If you are setting any other angles, do toe last. Good luck.

To remove any exhaust bolt with a minimum of headache, get yourself some "Mopar Rust Penetrant" (this is a rename of the Mopar heat riser solvent from the 1960s). Soak em for a day or 2. If you can continue driving the car, and you can heat cycle it once or twice, that helps a lot. Rust is brittle, and if you can shock it, it will probably crumble. Never use a 12 point socket for anything, especially this. A small impact gun (or butterfly) can be helpful here. I do not mean the big one you use on wheel lugs, at least not at first. Another thing you can do is hit it with a hammer with some tension in the "unscrew" direction. For instance, with your 6 point socket and a (relatively small) breaker bar, hold some tension and smack the back of the breaker bar (where it makes the corner) with a brass hammer. Keep smacking until you feel the fastener start to turn. If you need to use a metric socket to get a tight fit, then do it. The hammering to get it on there can only help. No matter how you accomplish it, a shock wave is your friend when trying to break up rust. Lots of good advice in this thread so far.

If you put Vaseline in there it will prime almost immediately. Great idea if you are going to take the pump apart. If not it could take a while... anything from 30 seconds to 3 or 4 minutes. Don't forget to give the starter a break or two if it is taking a long time. Avoid getting it hot.

If no one comes up with a better way, you can generally prime an engine with oil by removing the spark plugs and cranking with the ignition off. The lack of spark plugs makes the engine spin much easier and faster. Crank until you have oil pressure on a mechanical gauge, then keep going just a bit longer. I don't know where Pontiac connected the gauge on your car, but any oil galley with a plug in it should work. You will get a bunch of opinions about zinc. The Pontiac's cam is low-stress compared to later cars. It probably never needed the zinc. On the other hand, It couldn't hurt. If it were me I would probably put some in for the startup.

This. As a driveability tech, I never recall sending one of these to get a new cam either. Olds made about eleventy billion of those big Cutlass Supreme coupes in the 70s, and I recall seeing them all the time (in the 80s) with 150-180k miles on them, and NO engine mechanical issues and NO oil burning. IMHO the Olds 350 was GMs best engine of the 70s, and not by a small margin. That said, ANYTHING can have a flat cam.

When you have an exhaust valve that wont open all the way, for any reason, you get a rhythmic snapping/popping/backfiring in the intake. All that exhaust and fire has to go somewhere. MarkV's most recent post sounds like that to me. In fact, his description REALLY sounds like that to me. When it gets bad enough you cant even drive. Could be with or without valvetrain noise, depending on what it is. And yes, a compression test couldn't hurt.

That makes it easy to find (brake tubing).

This is classic valvetrain failure, usually a flat camshaft lobe. In this case, I would take the valve covers off and look for the rocker trouble Joe mentioned in the other thread. You are looking for an exhaust valve that is not opening. If it is a rocker bridge or something it will be an easy fix. If the cam is flat, you will need to do a cam and lifters. To clarify, and to be sure we are really talking about the same thing, the condition I refer to will cause a loud snapping in the intake as you try to rev the engine. Instead of revving up you get a rythmic backfiring in the intake. Remove the valve covers. Crank the engine, better yet have a friend crank it so you can watch the valves (with the plugs out and the ignition disabled or unplugged or something). Find the valve that doesn't open. Figure out why. This is what you will need to fix. Don't replace the throttle body. That wont do anything. Good luck.

If it were me, I wouldn't disturb the huge copper washer at the back of the cylinder bore (closest to the mounting ear) if possible. I say if possible because I'm not sure if you have to remove it to get the piston out. I don't think you do. I saw one of those big washers (on a Buick) leak with a persistence I have never seen in a brake system. It defied all attempts to seal it including a new copper washer, annealed old copper washers, custom machined thicker copper washers, aluminum washers, re-machining the sealing surfaces level and square, etc. I have no idea why it wouldn't seal. If I remember correctly the owner had it machined for a rubber o ring after days of trying. That worked, but as the trouble was never solved using original materials, I am very reluctant to take that last copper washer off.

I would start looking around the restoration outlets, CJPonyParts, Macs, West Coast Classic Cougar, DeadNutsOn, and so on, and see if you can find one that matches. You would be amazed what is available in reproduction these days. I am guessing Ford no longer has it. Did you try? I agree that the universal ones are useless. Good luck!

Pictures might help. I think these might be "threaded sleeve" fittings rather than double flare. Is the tubing copper? I would have suspected steel. Do they look like this? If so, Midland Metals still make them. I bought some larger ones from Blackhawk Supply. https://blackhawksupply.com/collections/compression-fittings/section_double-compression?page=2

So THATS it! I knew it should be atmosphere, I just didn't see how it was getting there. It really makes a mess when they are allowed to suck exhaust. I have seen that on other cars where a tube rotted through and let a little exhaust in.

Where is the other end of that heat riser tube? It looks like it would suck exhaust!

Most shops probably wont have a way to tweak the axle (if needed) to set camber, or wedges to set caster. I would look for a shop that can align heavy trucks, buses, and motorhomes. I am assuming you have a beam axle in the front. I agree with keiser, the equipment shouldn't be a problem.

Nice car! Ill bet just driving it will help a lot. Welcome to the forum!

It could have some stuck rings. I might try squirting a little liquid wrench or diesel down into the cylinders (they aren't aligned with the spark plug holes in that engine, so squirt over toward the drivers side of the car). Let it sit like that a couple of days. Maybe that will help. How does it run? Could the carb be really rich? Choke not opening all the way or something? It has been my experience that many engines that are running slightly rich will oil smoke (blue), that wouldn't visibly smoke otherwise. Extremely rich will get you black smoke and soot. Maybe it just needs to be driven. Cars that sit a lot really need it to run properly.

I do that too but I use Sil-Glide. Grease can contaminate the shoes if you ever get the brakes hot enough to melt it. Sil-Glide needs much more heat to melt. Mask the pads if paint chips are a concern or problem. I never got concerned because my rattle-can paint was so thin.

I wonder what part of the wild west you are in? In WA(USA) it is exactly as Matt says. Also nobody is exempt from sales tax in WA. If for some reason you are not liable for sales tax, then you are liable for "use tax" at the same rate as sales tax. These title threads are silly. They happen all the time. Some folks go on and on about how easy it is, leaving those of us in places like WA either scratching our heads or laughing hysterically. WA has got a little easier in recent years, but still, a title not in the sellers name or with the wrong numbers does you no good, none at all. It would be much more useful, in title threads, for a poster to stick to his/her own state while explaining how things work, and to specify which state (or province or country). Maybe some loopholes would pop up. Just a thought.

That is out of an electric stove burner. It is out of my stove, almost. Mine is an L&H. I heard they were bought out by Thermador, but I have never heard Thermador called "T-K". Were there any more parts found near it that look like they could have come from a stove? How big is it?

IIRC 1500 (and 1200 and 2000) exist or existed. I do not recall if there were any "W's" involved. This is the sort of stuff you might find in a brass era transmission. Semi fluid grease. Maybe like NLGI 00?