Bloo

I think you have nailed it. You can even see the support member that matches the original post, just below headlight level.

Never make the assumption that a tire with an American brand name is USA made or that a tire with an Asian brand name is made in Asia. It has not been true for a very long time. Tire production facilities both here and abroad hire themselves out to many different companies. Until you look up the factory code on an individual tire, you just don't know.

Thank You!

Which one is this? I also think it is a 1936 Chevrolet in the original post. The headlight buckets are set up for sealed beam, and the front flanges do not look like a removable conversion kit. They are probably the wrong headlight buckets.

Part numbers? Yes, I would like to know! I did identify those other parts as model T, but I have no clue which versions of the T they are for.

Dynaflow? Which series Buick? Has this car been working recently? OK, so the drums are off. You should be able to turn one wheel or wheel flange, and the other side should turn in the opposite direction, no matter what the transmission is up to. The only exception to that would be if it has a limited slip rear axle, and I don't think that was available yet in 1950. There are people in here who will know for sure. What does the rear axle fluid look like?

Believe the piston. Re-check it and if it really is reading 8 BTDC with the piston at true TDC, you either have some wrong parts, or your balancer has slipped, assuming it is possible for that particular balancer to slip. It's a pretty common problem on some newer engines. On the other hand if there is 8 degrees difference between where the chain marks align and true TDC, but the piston and the balancer do agree with each other about the location of TDC, that might or might not be a problem. I don't know.

That looks like a match. Thank you!

MEK is not banned where I live, but has become impossible to obtain. Don't assume it is available until you have a can of it in your hand. The sell a cheaper chemical, Ethyl Acetate, calling it "MEK substitute" with the "substitute" in small print. Funny, the price has not come down. Maybe Ethyl Acetate would work?

This was among Hupmobile "N" parts (with a few mysteries mixed in). Does anyone recognize it?

What car does this belong to? This was mixed in with Hupmobile "N" parts, and that may be what it is, but I have my doubts. Does anyone recognize it?

What is this spare tire rack from? "T" Ford? If so, about what year? I found close matches online but nothing exact. Thanks.

What magneto is this? Any ideas? Thanks.

What is this fender? Could it be Ford "T"? I couldn't find an exact match online. Thanks.

For what it's worth, some afterfiring in the exhaust of a carbureted car is normal. When coming downhill on compression, the intake manifold vacuum is at its absolute highest. The throttle is closed. The idle jet is still under the throttle plate. Quite a bit of fuel/air mixture gets sucked through the idle jet, with almost no air to mix with. There is a difference though between normal popping and big explosions that threaten to blow the muffler apart. I know you guys know that, but I am throwing it out there anyway because It just occurred to me that we have had fuel injection as default (in the US) for about 30-35 years now. We have had catalytic converters quieting things down even longer. There might be people reading this thread who have never heard the "normal" noise.

Yes, or anything that causes a misfire, even lean. The gas that doesn't burn winds up in the exhaust pipe.

Its not practical on this car.

Is the choke working? It should be trying to close or partially close with the engine off and the throttle a little bit open if the engine is cold. If that is OK, 1) With engine shut off, but having just been run so you know the carb is full of gas, 2) Choke open, or propped open if engine is cold, so that you can see down there, and the throttle is closed against the stop screw for slow hot idle, engine is still off, 3) Look down carb throat and open throttle gradually. you should not be able to move the throttle in the open direction at all without seeing gas squirt out the accelerator pump nozzle. If it passes that test, move on to the distributor. 1) Recheck the points gap, set if necessary. Make sure the return spring is present on the points. 2) Check the vacuum advance. It probably has a metal line you would need to disconnect, most conveniently at the carburetor. Either suck on it with a mityvac, or just suck on it. It can't leak any air, at all. Leave the distributor cap off so you can see it move, and see it move back when you let the vacuum off. 3) There are 2 little wires in the distributor, one grounds the breaker plate to the case, the other connects the points to the binding post. They are special wire made to take about a zillion bendings without breaking, because they are moving while you drive. Make sure they are both there, and are not broken. The one for the points is insulated, make sure any bare spots are not touching as the breaker plate moves with vacuum. The wire can be broken inside the insulation. Hint: it should not stretch. The ground wire is bare, and easier to see if broken. The popping would probably be in the exhaust rather than the carb, but you may as well inspect them while you are in there. It is common to find those wires screwed up. 4) Recheck ignition timing. 5) Recheck firing order. See which way the rotor turns, find number 1, and just follow it around the cap in the firing order, same direction as the rotor turns, checking as you go. Still backfiring? You might have a bent pushrod or stuck valve or both. Is the valvetrain unexpectedly noisy? If the trouble isn't caused one by one of the things outlined above, and it isn't fuel delivery as Daves1940Buick56S suggested, you have a choice. You could go straight to basics and do a compression test and a leakdown test. OR you could pull the valve cover if it's easier, take the spark plugs out, and have a friend crank the starter while you watch the valve stems. They should all move about the same, and if one is different it should stick out like a sore thumb after you watch it come around a few times.

This^^ It piles up. Don't save anything for later.

That is a model R, introduced 1917. The R had a very long run, so I wouldn't be surprised if those only fit some of the cars out there. Be very careful about ID'ing Hupmobiles via Google images. Both the model and/or year are often wrong. For instance the blue car in the picture is identified all over the Internet as a model N, and it is not. A model N is a larger car and an older design. Even though the radiators look similar, the shape of the cowl and the sloping windshield is are dead giveaways that the blue car is a model R. All model N's have an upright windshield.

Epoxy primer over bare metal, then do whatever else you are going to do. It is a 2-part catalyzed thing, and it is not the same as other primers, whether those other primers are 2-part catalyzed or not. Epoxy primer is not traditional mainly because it didn't exist in the past. It is your best chance of a good bond to CLEAN metal. Nothing else even comes close. Either wear GOOD protection for your body and an air system for your lungs, or if that is too expensive, hire someone else to spray it. That goes for all modern paint, not just the epoxy primer.

I don't know where to get one. I think I have seen a lighter powered fan, but I can't remember where. Most were hardwired.

The little 6v fans weren't usually lighter plug powered, but clamped to the steering column and wired in permanently. Their real intended purpose was defogging the windshield in the winter. They were probably mainly seen in trucks in the 50s, and older used cars, as real heated defrosters were fairly common in 50s cars.

I don't do it based on time normally, but if car was awoken from a decades long sleep I would change most or all fluids, including the power steering. That goes double if the car was stored outside or in a leaky and/or unheated building. 500 miles a year since 2010? Only if there was something obviously wrong with it, wrong color, bad smell, metal sparklies, etc. There's no way that fluid should be bad already, and it it is, there is probably something wrong with the system. Change your antifreeze and brake fluid every 2 or 3 years...

I like it, even the seatcover.