Gary W

Hello all; I'm just patiently waiting for my kit to arrive. I am really disappointed that I missed my self-imposed deadline of March 1, and even more that I missed this Spring driving season to break the motor in while the days are cool. I'm always reminded of the Serenity Prayer..... Accept the things I cannot change. This setback is simply out of my control and I have to chill out, and hope all the waiting will result in a quality product. I started the engine today just to hear that beautiful straight eight purr! All the gauges are functioning properly, good oil pressure, no overheating, no water / oil leaks, no weird squeaks or rattles. I do notice that If she sits for a week, I need to give the accelerator a couple of "pumps" before flipping the ignition switch to start it. If I start it two consecutive days, it requires NO pumping at all. It just fires right up as it should. I think my Marvel is letting air in, or allowing the gas to run out.... don't really know. I think that's why some guys install an electric pump in the line to "prime" the carburetor for starting. Makes sense. When she starts, she runs rich for about two minutes. Then you can actually hear the engine pick up as the automatic choke pulls off and the mixture leans out. But, this is an incredibly busy time with the family and all those springtime chores in and around the house, so I'm always running. But the day that kit arrives, I'm going to forget all about the sprinkler system, the pH of the pool, the lawn fertilizer, the vegetable garden, the power washer, the deck stain........... I'm diving right back into the garage to finish her up! Thanks so much for following along, and hanging in there with me as I wait to complete the final phase of my restoration. Hope you all have a great week, and hopefully I'll be posting real soon! Respectfully, Gary

Did you try McMaster Carr? If you know the size and thread count they have an extensive assortment.

Matt...what bulb did you ultimately use in the switches? I have the same issue, very dull "HEAT" and a bright "LITE". Is there a number on the correct bulb you used?

It's really not a bad job. The harness is clearly wired so just follow along step by step and you'll get it installed just fine. Lay it out first, get your bearings as to what wire goes where, make a few of your own labels if needed. It's pretty straightforward. If I can help at all, don't hesitate. Good Luck!! Gary

Why is it that whenever you borrow a friends _________________ (lawnmower, leaf blower, snowblower, car, truck, hammer, t-shirt.....) SOMETHING ALWAYS HAPPENS???? Matt.. Safe trip! Enjoy the tour! Looking forward to photos when you return. Gary

Hi Randy; No updates from LeBaron. I haven't done anything with the car except start the engine a couple times a week and let it warm up, idle a bit and shut it down. I can't think of anything to do with the car until the new upholstery kit arrives. Bummer The bad dye lot was with their Brown Bedford Cord fabric. (N7...?). They have a new supplier for the fabric, but how long it takes to remake all the bad kits..... I don't know. It took about three months for the fabric to turn green. I hate that my project is just stalled for the last few months, but some things are completely out of my control. I had high hopes that I would have a thousand miles on her by now! The woodgrain was done by Mr. Bob Kennedy out on your side of the country. 1.562.693.8739. A real gentleman to deal with and an artist with the grain. Thanks for checking in! Have a great weekend and I'll get posting as soon as this kit arrives. Gary

I used this gold paint, thinking the timing light would really illuminate it. It doesn't. Use a good white paint to highlight the marks and run a line like Matt did above.

Hi Rodney; On my '37 Special I went with the Yellow wires with the cross tracers. I not 100% sure they are "correct" but they look great under the hood. Labeled, measured and making the first cut All assembled. Here's the link of that day:

Is the fan thermostatically controlled or just flip a switch?

I don't think the glass was tinted originally. When I ordered my full replacement set of glass for the car, I was informed it comes "factory clear laminated safety glass". I believe he said I could get a tint at an additional cost, but I wanted it original so I simply ordered a clear set. I cannot find any corroboration in any of my manuals one way or another, so I went with his advice. Gary

Are your seats installed? How do you drive it around? Did you run a dedicated ground wire to the sending unit? Might help the gauge.

Some Springtime Photos:

Some Photos:

Running lean. You may also get that as you shift between the gears.

Matt... She sounds great!! Always a good day to hear it fire right up! Nice job!

Hello Rod! I installed the windshield center division channel AFTER the windshield glass was installed. The night before I installed the windshield, I stretched the new rubber gasket around both glass pieces and set two 1/4" MDF blocks between the panes to create a gap and give the new rubber seal a little stretch. Set your glass / rubber seal over the lower pinch weld first, then using a string or glass tools, pull the rubber gasket out from under the glass and around the perimeter of the glass to seat the new rubber gasket, without the center division. Now the glass is set in position, what I did was to CAREFULLY place the 1/4" block back between the panes to again create the gap for the center division channel. If you have helpers "pulling" the glass to the edges to create the gap, it is easier to place the "spacer" block in position. I used new rubber from Steele for the center division channel. It had to be tapped first because there was rubber in the threads. DO NOT TAP THE HOLES with the rubber assembled. Tap the holes with the rubber out on the bench. The metal is a very very soft brass material that easily bends when the screws bottom out! So, after the metal was re-painted, slide the rubber into the channel. (Silicone helps here). I had two metal parts for inside the car. A strong steel "base" that goes under the softer, woodgrained part for support. I used silicone over the rubber, slid the rubber between the panes and started pulling the division channel slowly using the screws. Little by little, it will pull it tight. Now, according to the book, the center division channel goes in AFTER the garnish molding, and before the rear view mirror. So, I will once again remove my center channel when it's time to install the garnish molding. But for now, it is keeping the space correct. Couple Photos: (Of course!!!) The night before glass install. The two 1/4" MDF blocks helped stretch the rubber and maintain the gap. Sliding the lower rubber over the pinch weld. John was pulling the rubber out to make the seal. One MDF block still in the gap, but I actually removed it to ease the glass install. Installing the center division channel. I used silicone on the new rubber, began pushing it into the gap. On the inside, you can see I just started running the screws in. I caught one screw and started tightening it. Then I moved to the next center one, and so on. It will slowly draw into position. You see the wood grained part. There is a steel backer plate under this cosmetic piece that gives it a rigidity. Installed center division channel. . 1937 Shop Manual. Notice the garnish molding goes in BEFORE the center division channel. But, being I cannot install the garnish until my interior arrives, I figured it will keep the glass positioned properly in the meantime. Hope it helps!!! Gary

I got a matching set of 1930 plates, and had them restored. ( By the way, the "M" is for Monmouth County, so I considered myself lucky to find these!) I keep the registered "QQ" Historic plate on the back, but for the car shows, I put these up front.

The Bug: "Ingrid" 1967 Volkswagen Convertible Karmann Body (Cabriolet?) Quick story: 14 years ago (2004), my younger brother was just turning 40. His wife asked me to find "the red convertible you guys had when you were in college" as a surprise for his 40th. She gave me about 9 months advance notice, and I found a beauty. It had only 8,011 original miles. No rust, no rot, all original and runs like a top. The owner put some chrome do-dads on it, I did a complete brake job, installed new tires and put a newer 1971 carburetor on it. It's been 14 trouble-free years since. The car is a blast to drive! I never mentioned it because technically, I'm only the caretaker. The car was stored at my house from 2004 to November 2016 when I purchased the Buick. I kept it detailed, running, maintained...... took care of it like it was my own! Now it's at my mom's house. She has a two-car garage. I hope to build a garage soon so Ingrid can join her "sisters" once again! This was the "line-up" when she was with me. July 2017 at Monmouth Park car show. Gary

Do you have a two-stage fuel pump on this car?

The rubber is from Steele Rubber. The one in the catalog that is correct for my car. It fit very nice, as does all their rubber items! Here's the link to the windshield install with the rubber seal:

Saturday April 14, 2018: Sharing some photos outdoors The temperature got up into the 80's here this weekend so I dropped my plastic crate behind the wheel and drove the Buick out into the cul-de-sac to take a few photos. It's such a beautiful time of year with the dogwoods and bradfords in bloom. It's a small "bloom" window and I didn't want to miss it! The paint really looks nice out there, almost looking blue as it reflects the sky. As shaky as it is sitting on a crate and pushing the pedals, boy it feels nice behind that wheel! Enjoy! Hopefully only a couple of weeks to the finish line!! Have a great week! Gary

Matt.. I'm sure you already did this, but sometimes it's good to repeat: Be sure to polarize the generator. As soon as I did this, the generator began charging. Might save you some work!

I have a question about the electric fuel pump. Does it turn on to simply prime the carburetor, then it's not used? And does it pump through the Buick fuel pump or is there a parallel line that bypasses the Buick fuel pump?

Beautiful, smart and impressive work.