jsgun

I refurbed my window motors, I believe it's much the same as the vent window motors. I used a flat blade screwdriver to scrape the grease off the gears (it was hard like wax), and lacquer thinner to wipe the grease off that and the shaft and bearings. My communicator contacts were dirty, wiping them down and a light brushing with 1000 grit sandpaper made them look new. Remember to clean in between them with a toothpick to prevent any crap from getting into the brushes. I used moly axle grease on my bushings and gears. Getting the motor back together is tricky because of the brushes. Use toothpicks to manipulate them, and move slow, and it falls back into place. It's a simple setup, it'll make sense once you see it.

This is where i'm at too. It's obviously a box with custom matched internals, built to spec. I wouldn't give any details other than lock to lock. My only other concern is if it kept the stock turning circle. I think RRB said in another post that it was the same radius. It's impressive that they're sold at that price point. Dirt track guys pay a lot more for custom boxes. If finances allow, I plan on getting one eventually.

When I was shopping for mine, I was set on a 64. I didn't want the 63's Dynoflush, even though it's a good transmission. I wanted the stronger ST/TH400, so it would feel faster and snap at the stoplights. I never liked the 65's rearend, simply because they broke the front to rear balance by having it up higher than previously. I don't care much for the 65's blackout dash and gauges, although it can be changed. I do like the 63's "B U I C K" letters across the trunklid. Long story short, I wouldn't kick any of them out of my driveway, but the 64 was the sweet spot in design and performance IMO.

I'm working on mine right now, it's milled. Running into fit problems with the bolt, trying to find a solution. I'll put together a post on it once I have it sorted.

FWIW, it's a 3d model, and the scene is rendered on computer. It's a nice model, not 100% correct but looks pro made. Probably created by a 3d model asset company. It's "curbside", no underside details.

That's the one. Nice piece, appears CNC cut, with a custom bolt. The main body is considerably thicker than the stock part too. I felt the price is a little high, but it's a very nice piece and I appreciate that it's being made.

for whatever it's worth, if you have to replace the whole thing the ones on ebay advertised for 58-64 chevy bolts right in. Wire plug is different though.

bestoffercounts is making the window tracking arm now (not sure what it's called, the one that always breaks). Expensive, but nice piece.

The horn relay junction is a misnomer, it's just a insulated post that shares a housing with the horn relay. It's where the battery power cable stops, and splits into the cable going to the starter, and a smaller one going to the firewall terminal connector. I'd check that junction, and make sure its tight and the cables aren't pulling from the terminals. It sounds like you have a full break in the power from the battery to the rest of the car.

Might be loose at the horn relay junction, or at the starter solenoid. Something is pulling a load on the battery, i'm betting it's the solenoid.

Ran the burn test, and confirmed it's polystyrene plastic. Same thing they make model kits from. It's 1/8th inch thick (3.5 mm) on the dash, give or take depending on the area. Here's a link to the burn test if anyone is curious. Cut a small shaving or a piece of broken tab, and burn it and note the results. https://www.boedeker.com/Technical-Resources/Technical-Library/Plastic-Identification

I had no idea about the single key on the 64. I replaced my locks in groups, so I have 3 keys. Any vendors sell a matched set of locks with one key? I can guarantee no one in my area can match tumblers. I've had to open my trunk from the inside, it's an interesting adventure.

I remember something about a "burn test", where you light a shaving on fire, and how it smokes or melts gives you a ballpark estimate on plastic type. I'll see what I can find and report back.

Anyone have a guess on what type of plastic the dash and console is made of? My 64 has several cracks and broken tabs that I want to repair. I'm also considering some mild modifications to the console. I suspect it's polystyrene, it appears to be right around 1/8th inch thick.

I know compared to camaros and mustangs it's a niche car, but considering almost ever single 63-65 Riv has rear window rust out i'm amazed no panels are made.

I thought I read somewhere they're mid 60's corvette gauges.

Anyone used one of those stainless senders on ebay? I thought I saw the return line is angled wrong, but can't remember.

Smiths has a dual gauge, oil pressure and water temp. I think it's around 2". Meant for MG's and the ilk. Nice gauge, clear lettering and 180 degree sweep for both gauges. Fits perfectly in the clock hole. I'm trying to decide if I want to use a clock blank punched out, or just let it sit flush with the dash. I'll post pics once I get it figured out. I've had oil pressure plastic tubes pop off, i'm using grease gun hose for the oil pressure now. The water temp sender takes some obscure metric to NPT fitting to adapt to the engine block.

Think it's a bad resistor on the sender?

What's the ohm reading range on a 64 fuel sender? I'm seeing 0 at empty, and 32.1 -ish at full. Isn't it supposed to be 45 ohm? I do briefly see 48 ohm, on the arc up from empty. It jumps then goes back to 3 or 4 ohm. Readings are the same from the wire attachment stud, and from the rivet at the end of the flat wire, so I don't think that wire is bad. The fuel sender on my 64 wasn't reading correctly, so I took apart the little metal box at the hinge point, and cleaned the contact points with an eraser. They were black, and now are shiny. I also bent the contact arm out just a bit. I noticed that the contact is somewhat rough looking. Starting to think that resistor wire is bad. Thoughts?

Mine are 64 recovered in non-stock materials and may be slightly different than stock. Bottom max width is 25 inches Bottom max length is 24 inches Bottom max thickness is 8 inches, min @4 Back max height is 21 inches Back max width is 22 inches Back max thickness is 6 1/2 unches

I had an AVS on a ford for a while, it's a great carb. Secondaries jump like a bear when it's floored. I'm at 2,500ft altitude, and it allowed for a lot of adjustments. It has to be rejetted down two sizes if you're very far above sea level.

Nothing is that black and white man. Never been to California? I had manual drums on my mustang. Most roads in the desert are at least 50mph, and people like to pull out in front of you. There's at least 4 times I remember that I thought I was done, from a-holes in toyotas. I went to power, and it was a different car. Then went to disc, and it was a different car again. I'm sure the drums on buicks are friggin amazing, but nothing will ever top disc for panic situations.

Curious, what did you do for the disc brakes, especially the rear?

I run a pertronix ignitor 3 and matching coil in my mustang for the past few years. Works amazing. Little bit better gas mileage and much better throttle response than the previous crane HI8 box and distributor. Much cheaper too. I believe the ignitor 1 can run on reduced voltage.