XframeFX

Again, more to a conversion than just breaker point elimination and that would be original Pertronix Ignitor #1181, one-wire SE conversion kits and others. You would still need to use a ballast resistor and old points style coil. Easy to get lost filtering all aftermarket components that really don't provide much in-the-way of improvements. This is my opinion after much research. Delco Breaker points would not survive with the MSD Blaster II coil. Will need to install another high wattage ballast resistor in-series to the existing ballast resistor, yuk! The TFI eliminates that condenser and ballast resistor. You can still use a ballast resistor but it will have to be a high wattage external item unless you stay with an old points style coil. But why? The key to Ignition upgrades to a distributor system is FULL primary voltage, a better coil and longer dwell times (difficult on a shared distributor system). The latter is best accomplished by switching to eight IGN-1A smart coils (or similar) for a true coil near/on plug system (COP). Switching to a current limiting electronic ignition will eliminate the ballast resistor and the bypass in "start mode". Upgraded coils of .7 ohms or better will operate at 14 Vdc even though they say 12 Vdc. If there's a coil failure down the road it is probably due to poor off-shore manufacturing like most aftermarket components. This is why I chose a TFI and MSD Coil, both USA produced. The TFI has a dual path, one for "start" and limp mode (like ballast resistor bypass in "start"). That path is not used (pin #6) As for using the the breaker points to trigger the TFI, there is no electrical load on the contacts. Only the rubbing block will wear but I have it gapped at only .010". Also, changing gap will not affect dwell! In addition, there is minimal side loading of the upper distributor bearing. Finally, the stock appearance remains! I extracted my TFI with harness and heat sink from a 1994 F150. Costed $9 CAD on Black Friday weekend deal. You could accomplish the same with an HEI #D1906 module or in kit form, a Pertronix Ignitor II that uses a Lobe Sensing Hall Effect sensor. All will allow use of a better coil such as Ignitor II or Blaster II. Also, DUI claims to have USA produced components. A quick google search. So, this is a start (disregard 40 ohm resistor): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8016863

I was just at their Casa Grande location, both yards. Although not the requested straight-8, I noticed a 1967 Riviera abandoned project with what appears to be a rebuilt 430 BBB. Since so many parts are damaged or core quality, perhaps it could be had for a core price. Offer to buy with all accessories and might be reasonable. I checked it out and it's all there except for distributor. There were many early 50s Buicks there but picked-over. The recent arrival '53 Special sounds promising depending on transmission.

Good to know. I was going to take a chance on a set of Hyd. Lifters from Mexico. Similar circumstance as that condensor. Meaning, still produced but no longer conforming to any standards let alone QC. I went CHEAP. Tossed the Condensor but kept the Breaker Points! The latter simply triggers a $9 Motorcraft TFI Module from the wreckers. The better "current limiting" principle allows use of any coil. No worry of burning through contacts too quickly. I upgraded to a better Made-in-USA .7 ohm MSD Blaster II Coil. Much more to ignition than elimination of breaker points that uses "coil saturation" principle. A distributor system will only take limited improvements. Doing more is wasting $$$ and being straddled with off-shore parts, compromising original reliability.

The Riviera GS, last 1st Generation Riviera at last week's Barrett-Jackson Scottsdale 2024. (if there were 2nd generation Rivieras and Boatails, I didn't see any). https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1965-BUICK-RIVIERA-GRAN-SPORT-272982 $132K:

Three more at Barrett-Jackson, the 3rd being a 6-Figure 1965 Riviera GS. Two having 2X4 intake.

SOLD for $30,800 at Barrett-Jackson this week. I find "no-reserve" a nail-bighter.

Yes. Tom T also recommended Fuel Injection Hose (SAE 30R90) with FI clamps if opting for new hoses in other posts on this subject. It is 3/8" on the suction side, 5/16" between the Carter and mech. Fuel Pump and 1/4" for return line. https://www.continental-engineparts.com/na/en-us/automotive/hoses/automotive-hoses/fuel-hose/products/product-range/fuel-injection-hose-sae-30r9

Thanks All for expertise shared here. I quickly learned the PCV Valve is more than a check valve. - So, including function as a check valve, the PCV Valve is more like a 3-Way Valve. - Yes, I was aware it had to rattle to be deemed "Good". - Failure mode is indeed Oil Mist dragged through the plumbing especially if the baffle is in adequate. - All those PCV Valves that tested the same on the parts counter are probably "Good" including the Echlin valve on my Nailhead now. - Location of PCV Port is preferred at the Carburetor Primaries. - Function as a check valve to handle incidences of back-fires. - Availability of MEWagner adjustible PCV Valve and tech info there. I forgot about power brake booster still not functioning after re-installation. So, will deal with that before condemning the PCV Valve and AFB Carburetor. In fact, I wonder how many 1963 power boosters oit there function without a vacuum leak?

I take it simply as sarcasm. With all the fasteners on the internet, we find it just as difficult sourcing "specialty fasteners" in metric as yourself in SAE. An ongoing struggle to source loacally for all of us. Let's face it, Vendors and Buyers are not interested in small online transactions, a few brass nuts for example. However, courier companies Love it!

I don,t understand... Trying to repair a riviera 1966 without inch is very difficult.... Je ne comprends pas!

There are many here. But, sources narrow-down when requesting specialty items such as Brass. The big distributor in NA is: https://www.fastenal.com/fast/international-requests Or, try Lithuania! https://www.westbolt.eu/en/

Yes, I'm aware Tom, thanks. If my power booster rebuild was botched, I'm inclined to dump it and switch to the newer version not just for vacuum tank elimination but for a fresh check-valve and that seal. Simply, an improved unit if I am successful in locating one I'm certain I have that O-Ring on the Master Cylinder. But if missing, an easy fix.

Odd? My Wrangler 4XE PHEV is the exact opposite. A dedicated analogue Tachometer while a large digital speedometer is on the 1st page on the Message Centre. If you're not on page-1, you have just the Tachometer which is at zero in electric mode of course. So a dedicated Speedo would make more sense, n'est pas?

Ah, I recall that O-Ring requirement. I definitely do not have a gasket in place for the original master cylinder. I remember pulling up on the pedal before shutting down after brake bleeding process. It was up all the way and still, residule vacuum all gone. Easy to check, two nuts, thanks. Will re-install with RTV sealant after inspection.

My shop manuals are not handy at the moment to research what failure modes may exist for the 1963 Riviera Power Brake Booster. Two types? I have only seen one in all the 1963 Rivieras I've encountered, Moraine type I believe. I noticed no reserve assists as part of chasing vacuum leaks. So, I had it rebuilt after 1st replacing hoses and testing accumulator vessel and check valve. Upon re-installation, I noticed the same situation exists, zero reserve. All vacuum gone immediately after shutdown. I was going to follow-up but got occupied with numerous other Riviera issues. I'm now thinking to cut towards another booster for the 1964-65 Riviera. Unlike 1963, rebuilt replacements are supported or, was. I see no stock anywhere. - What other GMs use the 1964-65 Power Brake Booster? - Are the long Master Cyl pushrod and pedal link interchangable with the '63? - If interchange is incompatible, any tips on DIYing my rebuilt 1963 power booster? What could be causing the leak internally? I am aware of brake light switch and not concerned. Thanks!

Naw, it's stuck there. Back during the 2008 financial crisis it was ABOVE Par. Could've, would've, should've. On another note. There were two 1st generation Rivieras at BJ Westworld this week. With all the rain here in the dessert (typo on purpose), a car cover on a full custom '64 (bump for hood ornament and side scoops). The other was a 1963 long term family owned. Will follow-up on them:

I have studied the AFB to death. I'm certain the PCV port taps vacuum out of the rear bores. Too busy to accomplish this at the primaries within the carburetor body. Probably the reason Cadillac used that black phenolic adaptor to extract vacuum out the front. Early 60s technology!

I'll resort back to sparkplug inspection. But, it would be nice to have realtime inspection such as a WB Air/Fuel Ratio analyzer. Carb Cheater would be the best tool to proceed. Better than purchasing an entry level PicoScope for secondary ignition analysis. Carb Cheater would have realtime parameters on my android! Late in 2023, I purchased ignition pickups and attenuators for my 80s spectrum analyzer and can see secondary parade of all 8 cylinders are identical but extremely Lean. There appeared to be some random misfire but my setup not as ideal as a PicoScope. Most of my trouble shooting is while idling. A vacuum leak will affect all circuits. Will scrutinize PCV operation more.

Me too and, exactly for that Leather wrapping as well!

The vacuum accumulator vessel never seems to hold vacuum immediately after shutdown even after an expensive power booster rebuild which was returned to me painted black, not plated. Didn't even include a new external check valve. The 60 year old valve checks-out functional but don't trust it and yes, shouldn't make a difference. Only the power booster could have a leak if it even had one in the first place (before rebuild). Carburetor is also an expensive trailer park rebuild with scuffed pistons re-installed. I swapped-in better used meter rod pistons and played with various springs ending with the originals back in. The AFB has PCV port out the back over the secondaries. I have a Cadillac spacer with a PCV port out the front. However, primary bores are only 1-7/16" not 1-9/16". Assuming my issue is the AFB idle circuit but Lean condition persists with primaries as well. With the return of driving season, will bring nailhead to operating temp. Pull over to a safe roadside spot, install yet another set of new sparkplugs, block all vacuum assessories and make a little road trip (no idling) for sparkplug inspection. That ME Wagner product might. Be in my Riviera's future.

Tested this with a square piece of yellow post-it note (sticky side up) over the open breather/filler hole in earlier trouble-shooting. Also, blocked PCV momentarily with my thumb to observe idle quality and vacuum. It went from 15-16" to 17-18". I think I need to plug the PCV and power brake ports then attempt tuning adjustments again. Success or not, re-connect and see where I'm at. Like many replacement parts, I have zero trust in the various PCV Valves I have purchased for this engine. No silver bullet!

Canadian Dollar, Sigh . . . . .

I contributed a few links in the Post below. But Crankshaft Coalition is jam-packed with TH400 info: https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/TH400_rebuild_tech

I examined a casting this week and appears stock height. I was scrutinizing other attributes such as ports, all NPT and location for the throttle dashpot. The casting has provision for dashpot bracket but can't be correct for both square and spreadbore?

This is hitting close to home. I blocked power brake vacuum source during past tuning/trouble-shooting. I should've blocked the PCV hose as well. Nothing I do to the carburetor seems to accomplish much. I was relying on correct replacement parts such as using process of elimination for the PCV Valve. However, I have learned "meets or exceeds" is not correct at all. More like "one part fits all", a Chevy part.