XframeFX

Thanks, there was a youtube on this, very interesting and especially so for Nailhead people. So, the re-fueling mule had a large fuel tank where the rear seat was. But, the test Invicta had a stock fuel tank with that rear wing supporting an interface coupling? 20 US Gallons? I recall a VW commercial where a driver had to pull over to relieve himself at a public washroom before his VW needed a re-fill. Not so with the 1960 Nailhead test at Daytona. Even with rotating drivers, a single shift would outlast the Invicta's fuel capacity. So, in my opinion, the notoriously famous gas guzzling Nailhead has a failing grade right there! I know, I know, a high speed circuit. Still . . . . . .

Ditto

So to do this, remove the hood, strap a Briggs & Stratton fuel tank to a roof rack for gravity feed to the carburetor and take it for a test run. LOLing of course😃 I too questioned that fuel filter with the 1/4" return until helpful contributors on this Forum explained the teeny tiny orifice. In light of fuel delivery discovery here, maybe replace that filter once more, a different brand maybe. From earlier observations, I understood that the mechanical fuel pump also regulates pressure between it and the carburetor. I can see a failure mode of too much pressure, overcoming float valve seat but, not too little pressure. However, I totally agree with Tom M, You've progressed 50% in your troubleshooting. How about a Tee between the fuel filter and carburetor for a remote fuel pressure gauge zip tied to the Driver's wiper arm since the hood is off?😃 Something to consider but a longshot, fuel delivery upstream of the mechanical fuel pump. It is 3/8" when the mechanical fuel pump inlet barb is 5/16". So, that flex hose must be scrinched down with a gear hose clamp. Potential for a leak even when parked as there's a head on that connection being at a low point. A leak would be easily detected and probably not the cause for fuel delivery.

Replacing the Fuel Tank or Pickup-Sender? Both are do-able (re-produced. Check with James @ bestoffercounts, a good vendor. However, with shipping costs, I sent my tank out to a radiator shop where they soldered a certification/ID tag on it. Remained like-for-like for no surprises at the filler neck. When ordering a new pickup/sender, you'll need a 33 ohm unit and yes, stick with the dual 3/8" and 1/4" barbs. You will need to remove the tank to replace the pickup/sender. Then install with few screws finger tight. Flip the tank over and measure sender ohms with a multimeter OR hookup to wire harness with long patch leads to observe fuel gauge with ignition on. You may need to bend the float arm to achieve a full swing from Empty to Full. Add a ground wire to the pickup/sender upon raising the tank back in place.

I never entertained the possibility of using steel intake gaskets, a new set of course. They appear to be unobtainum anyway. Endless chasing of vacuum leaks, I prefer composite gaskets with those exhaust block-offs left off. This is for a single 4BBL. However, steel shim head gaskets would've been nice!

Misfire? Please keep us posted on progress and nature of misfire.

Agree. However, I want it MINE! I have those wire hubcaps sitting on a basement shelf, preferring Buick road wheels. I now have a different opinion of them seeing them on this superb 1965 Riviera GS!

Answer to drum/hub separation. Preferably match-mark it first before separating. No need to re-rivet the hub to the drum. Simply mount the wheel without those rivets. It was done during a build to retain balance as an assembly. Like turning as drum, I'm almost certain the balancing procedure was accomplished using the hub's outer bearing races. I'll be separating the hub and drum to a '57 Chev for the purpose of switching to a roller bearing hub. The ole '57 has ball bearings! (image) It makes a Buick owner appreciate large aluminum drum brakes as compared to "lower" Chevrolets. I wished they went further with dual circuit brakes like Cadillac did in 1964. Also more aluminum parts such as the intake and distributor.

I've only seen a GM broadcast sheet online. This one should add $20K to a 1965 Riviera GS, LOL

I had an industrial supply/services place specializing in slings build a cargo net for the back of my SUV at the time to keep items from becoming projectiles during sudden stops. The price varied depending on lbs rating. I was already unsuccessful sourcing seatbelt services prior to that. So, upon completion of that cargo net, I presented my seatbelts during pick-up. They were fully capable and I almost had them convinced to take it on. After some discussion, NO. Too many unknowns outside their norm. They were concerned with liability. Yes, if there's a source - SSnake-Oyl, pay the $$$, done.

Finally got around to removing that Master Cylinder on the 1963 Power Booster. It was a snug fit and the square profile O-Ring was in-place with Vacuum grease smeared around it. I cannot see how there's a leak there. So, there must be a massive leak inside somewhere. Any tips? Shop Manual stresses not to pinch diaphragm bead when twisting both housing halves to locked position.

All these pretty images of beautiful Rivieras. So, I'll break the pattern with a shot of a pristine rear armrest sitting in a yard at Desert Valley Auto. Can you spot it? LOL

TFIs were relocated from the distributor to a heat sink mounted on a fender well because the engine would die when too hot. Most recovered when cooled. I believe a class action law suit was registered. They have a direct path to the coil bypassing the electronic timing module for "Start". It can be enabled by opening a connector in the harness near the TFI module to set base timing. This path is primarily used for "Start" but is also a backup, limp mode and sends a diagnostic signal. I am using only the "Run" path, no backup. Again, I keep a spare module in the glovebox. If TFIs were bad back in the 90s, there are QC issues with new replacements today, even Motorcraft brand. So far, I'm impressed. Operates as low as 9 Vdc (ballast resistor), will fire any coil (current limiting trigger), will power down if no pulse is present (key left ON) and rock solid dwell. Above all, a simple install. The 2 holes in the heat sink line up with two of the three holes on the fender where the Voltage Regulator was. An interesting read/rant for a Ford Shutter Wheel: https://www.promracing.com/tfi-distributor-shutter-wheel.html

Many things come to mind, "DynaSlow" first. Final drive ratio 2nd. Yes, a steeper ratio will provide better response at the expense of economy. But, like any torque convertor transmission, there is more of a lock-up with the fluid flung to the outer diameter of a large torque convertor at a higher RPM than if the Nailhead is loafing along. Everything is a trade-off from launching to maintaining cruise speed. Once in motion, cruising should not be an issue. The DynaFlow seamlessly multiplies torque while transitioning from one turbine to to next. I say "once in motion" because my 1963 DynaFlow is a definite DUD off the line even with 3.23 ratio. Variable Pitch is not a factor because it only kicks-in at WOT which is not normal in everyday driving. I've considered hooking up the variable pitch to a cable inside so I can manually engage it. Does the '53 Super have a torque tube? Later 50s BUICKs did. I ask this because it has been my intention to orphan my Twin Turbine by swapping in an ST400. If I'm doing it, I'm sure there are other shelved Twin Turbines out there. Variable pitch started in 1955 and by its final year in 1963 it was a refined transmission. Still, to swap to a more modern DynaFlow is certainly not worth the effort. I easily tolerate slow launches because there are so many more pressing issues with my ride. Through all this, the 1963 DynaFlow has been a reliable champ. Normal cruising on the highway, even hills and not even a leak.

Some great advise from experts here. But much talk on the evolution of the HEI system. Obviously, Nailheads never had this unit installed. Electra63 even indicated so. Instead of aftermarket parts on an OE system, were looking to source and install OE grade components on an aftermarket system. If this is a Davis distributor, I'd replace with a cap and rotor (blue) from DUI. Much of their components are Made-in-USA. If indeed a DUI distributor, that black rotor is likely not original From: https://performancedistributors.com/product/gm-heidui-v8-cap-rotor-kit/?attribute_pa_color-choice=black https://performancedistributors.com/product/buick-nailhead-dui-distributor/

With so many engines waiting in cue, you'd think they would have a temporary 4 BBL carburetor base cover to keep shop debris out?

I extracted a remarkably nice 1963 Riviera windshield from a parts car and leaned it up against the basement wall below the electrical panel with full intention of packaging for protection upon my return from a business trip. I left a key with a contractor who while working in my home, let a Cable Guy in who walked right into that windshield and snapped it in two. No note, no evidence that he was even in my house. I had to question the Contractor and ultimately got the Cable Company to reimburse for the loss. They were reluctant to pay of course and no explanation for entering my home unannounced.

Without real-time data and diagnostic error codes (modern vehicles), all we can do is change parts, rely on experience/knowledge and use process of elimination. It would be so nice to watch multiple parameters while driving. Then when the issue materializes say: "Ah look, input #7, Fuel pressure just dropped out". Just a thought when driving uphill: Float level/drop?

Sparkplugs have been found and at clearance prices. Not so for that air cleaner element I'm afraid and never will. Again, thought K&N would've support us.

Thanks for offering this item to us Barney. My '63 Riviera was in hibernation for over 25 years. When I continued on with the "project", I found most anything electrical not working, radio, blower, turn signals, power seat etc. But, the power antenna was the only power option still functioning faithfully!

Women experts say that Lobe is not fully developed in men (boys) until age 25! 😝

Nope, still an annoying issue. A low frequency resonant "thump" and can feel it through the seat bottom cushion. But again, outside the passenger compartment staring at my idling Nailhead with the Hood up, it idles fine, nieghbour and others at car meets even say so. Thinking copious amounts of DynaMat and hard motor mounts changed the dynamics. Then there's the DynaFlow because it's worse in "Drive" waiting at a Red light. Although through all this, the Dynaflow has operated flawless, not even a leak. Thanks for asking!

Agree. See, not a '65 Riviera GS and few options but very appealing just the same. I only ask that this one had AC and I'd be happy with it. Unbelievable the disparity in pricing between a 1965 Riviera and 1965 Riviera GS. Notice the turn signal and tilt levers down at the 8:00 O'Clock position?

Got lucky on 1st hit for a TFI Schematic in Google Images for Lee H. I guess I should go back and read more! Tissue rejection? TFIs are so cheap, I keep a spare in the glovebox. I spent more $$$ on a vial of thermal semi-conductor paste for the heat sink. Although the TFI produces no heat with the .7 ohm canister coil. Converted last winter hoping it would fix my thumping idle. Flip Flopping between ignition and fuel. Now after a summer with the TFI and a good handle on ignition, back to the fuel system.

But I thought 1966 Nailheads were Red also? Or, would it be just 1966 Riviera Nailheads were Red when 401s for other 1966 Full Size BUICKs were BUICK Green? Strange how those Red BBBs appear to have square-bore intakes? I discovered a 1967 430 BBB power train at Desert Valley Auto on Monday. It could be a "Find" since all other engines there are cores, many "stuck":