southpaw
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The broken lever is the hand throttle, upper lever on steering wheel. The switch is the headlight switch, lower lever on steering wheel. Those throttle levers are very fragile. Good luck 32 50 Series are great driving cars. Jim
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Eliminate advanced ignition by removing coil hi voltage wire from center of distributor and grounding to block. If it cranks correctly now your timing is too advanced. No change, you're left with weak battery or weak starter. Remember these cars started just fine back in the day. There is a problem you have not found YET. Triple check your grounds. With auto electrical systems it's always the ground. As mentioned above they did not crank fast. Get busy spring is almost here. Best of luck, Jim
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Gentlemen, I believe the small holes in the second picture, are cam bearing lock or keys. They keep the Babbitt from turning in the block. Of course I believe a lot of things, so that doesn't make it true! Been four or five years since I did my motor. Jim
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Erine, Try Al Suehring, had one for my '32 50. I think he will be at Hershey. That's where I met him. 715-677-3809 Good luck, Jim
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Try southshorebearing.com. Very helpful Jim
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Coupe 31 Sorry I can't find any pictures. If you just remove the oil cooler, you will see it only takes a little plumbing to remove the honeycomb heat exchanger and replace it with some copper tubing than replace the cover. Looks stock. I had to coat the inside of my cover with JB Weld, had some pin holes. Good luck, Jim
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I think it would have some value, depending on condition. How about some pictures. Do you know what series it is? Try posting it on the pre war Buick forum.
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Talk to John at The Brillman Co. 540-477-4112. He will have all the parts and info you will need. Pick his brain very helpful. Best of luck. Good looking car. Jim
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John, Go to The Motor Bookstore 214-385-4890 and get the specifications and adjustments manual. It will be invaluable to you. Will have all the info you need to install and adjust distributor. Best of luck, Jim
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My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project
southpaw replied to JV Puleo's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Joe. To find the tap drill for any thread inch or metric just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Pitch = 1 / TPI. So for a 1/4 - 20, 1 divided by 20 = .050 So the drill size will be .250 - .050 = .200 For your 7/8-18 thread 1 divided 18 = .05555 So .875 -.0555 = .8195. This works with metric as well. 6mm x 1 is just 6 minus 1 = 5 mm. Keep up the good work, Thanks for posting all your work. Best, Jim -
South Shore Bearings Quincy, Mass. 617-471-7800. They are The BEST. He may be able to do it by application.
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Please do not start your car till you have this sorted, that fan WILL destroy your radiator. Their is no water pump behind the fan on your '32. It is on the right side of the motor behind the generator / dist. The fan hub used a small reservoir and oil pump to lube the fan blade shaft. You need to check and fill it with oil often, makes a mess under hood. Yours is most likely beyond repair. Most replace with sealed bearings in a new housing goes under pully and can not be seen. PM me with your contact info will walk you thru it. Best, Jim
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Barry, The wrist pin is meant to turn, if it is not a press fit or has a pinch bolt. The holes are for splash oiling. Good luck with your rebuild. Jim
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Need help on rear axle fluid change on 41 Sedanette.
southpaw replied to Eddie-O's topic in Buick - Pre War
Ed, I think you may have an overdrive unit installed. We need pictures! Jim -
distributer swap from mechanical to vacume advance
southpaw replied to Steves Buick's topic in Buick - Pre War
Steve, I was told by John at Brillman Co. 888-274-5562 not to use the Petronix electronic ignition on a 6 volt system. He has points, condenser, and HOT coils. My '32 Series 50 Model 57S runs great with his ignition products, dual points and all. Give him a call he is very knowledgeable. Jim -
my31buick you won't hear any gear noise with diesel. Thought aluminum would be somewhat quieter. John, I won't know till I see how many requests I get. So if we can get all the 1931 thru 1935 Series 50 that need them they should be fairly reasonable.
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Have a 1932 Series 50 Model 57S. Only the cam gear is available, out of phenolic as the original was but without the metal hub. Using the new cam gear with the old crank and generator gears will accelerate the wear on the new cam gear. If there is enough interest I will have new 3 gear sets manufactured. Crank and generator gears to be steel, cam gears to be made of aluminum. The flat head Ford used aluminum cam gears in their truck motors and phenolic in the cars. The phenolic was supposed to be quieter but the trucks were not any louder as I remember.