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southpaw

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  1. The broken lever is the hand throttle, upper lever on steering wheel. The switch is the headlight switch, lower lever on steering wheel. Those throttle levers are very fragile. Good luck 32 50 Series are great driving cars. Jim
  2. Eliminate advanced ignition by removing coil hi voltage wire from center of distributor and grounding to block. If it cranks correctly now your timing is too advanced. No change, you're left with weak battery or weak starter. Remember these cars started just fine back in the day. There is a problem you have not found YET. Triple check your grounds. With auto electrical systems it's always the ground. As mentioned above they did not crank fast. Get busy spring is almost here. Best of luck, Jim
  3. Gentlemen, I believe the small holes in the second picture, are cam bearing lock or keys. They keep the Babbitt from turning in the block. Of course I believe a lot of things, so that doesn't make it true! Been four or five years since I did my motor. Jim
  4. Erine, Try Al Suehring, had one for my '32 50. I think he will be at Hershey. That's where I met him. 715-677-3809 Good luck, Jim
  5. southpaw

    Bearings?

    Try southshorebearing.com. Very helpful Jim
  6. Coupe 31 Sorry I can't find any pictures. If you just remove the oil cooler, you will see it only takes a little plumbing to remove the honeycomb heat exchanger and replace it with some copper tubing than replace the cover. Looks stock. I had to coat the inside of my cover with JB Weld, had some pin holes. Good luck, Jim
  7. I think it would have some value, depending on condition. How about some pictures. Do you know what series it is? Try posting it on the pre war Buick forum.
  8. Talk to John at The Brillman Co. 540-477-4112. He will have all the parts and info you will need. Pick his brain very helpful. Best of luck. Good looking car. Jim
  9. John, Go to The Motor Bookstore 214-385-4890 and get the specifications and adjustments manual. It will be invaluable to you. Will have all the info you need to install and adjust distributor. Best of luck, Jim
  10. Joe. To find the tap drill for any thread inch or metric just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Pitch = 1 / TPI. So for a 1/4 - 20, 1 divided by 20 = .050 So the drill size will be .250 - .050 = .200 For your 7/8-18 thread 1 divided 18 = .05555 So .875 -.0555 = .8195. This works with metric as well. 6mm x 1 is just 6 minus 1 = 5 mm. Keep up the good work, Thanks for posting all your work. Best, Jim
  11. South Shore Bearings Quincy, Mass. 617-471-7800. They are The BEST. He may be able to do it by application.
  12. Please do not start your car till you have this sorted, that fan WILL destroy your radiator. Their is no water pump behind the fan on your '32. It is on the right side of the motor behind the generator / dist. The fan hub used a small reservoir and oil pump to lube the fan blade shaft. You need to check and fill it with oil often, makes a mess under hood. Yours is most likely beyond repair. Most replace with sealed bearings in a new housing goes under pully and can not be seen. PM me with your contact info will walk you thru it. Best, Jim
  13. Barry, The wrist pin is meant to turn, if it is not a press fit or has a pinch bolt. The holes are for splash oiling. Good luck with your rebuild. Jim
  14. Ed, I think you may have an overdrive unit installed. We need pictures! Jim
  15. Steve, I was told by John at Brillman Co. 888-274-5562 not to use the Petronix electronic ignition on a 6 volt system. He has points, condenser, and HOT coils. My '32 Series 50 Model 57S runs great with his ignition products, dual points and all. Give him a call he is very knowledgeable. Jim
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