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  1. Gentlemen, I believe the small holes in the second picture, are cam bearing lock or keys. They keep the Babbitt from turning in the block. Of course I believe a lot of things, so that doesn't make it true! Been four or five years since I did my motor. Jim
  2. Erine, Try Al Suehring, had one for my '32 50. I think he will be at Hershey. That's where I met him. 715-677-3809 Good luck, Jim
  3. southpaw


    Try southshorebearing.com. Very helpful Jim
  4. Coupe 31 Sorry I can't find any pictures. If you just remove the oil cooler, you will see it only takes a little plumbing to remove the honeycomb heat exchanger and replace it with some copper tubing than replace the cover. Looks stock. I had to coat the inside of my cover with JB Weld, had some pin holes. Good luck, Jim
  5. I think it would have some value, depending on condition. How about some pictures. Do you know what series it is? Try posting it on the pre war Buick forum.
  6. Talk to John at The Brillman Co. 540-477-4112. He will have all the parts and info you will need. Pick his brain very helpful. Best of luck. Good looking car. Jim
  7. John, Go to The Motor Bookstore 214-385-4890 and get the specifications and adjustments manual. It will be invaluable to you. Will have all the info you need to install and adjust distributor. Best of luck, Jim
  8. Joe. To find the tap drill for any thread inch or metric just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Pitch = 1 / TPI. So for a 1/4 - 20, 1 divided by 20 = .050 So the drill size will be .250 - .050 = .200 For your 7/8-18 thread 1 divided 18 = .05555 So .875 -.0555 = .8195. This works with metric as well. 6mm x 1 is just 6 minus 1 = 5 mm. Keep up the good work, Thanks for posting all your work. Best, Jim
  9. South Shore Bearings Quincy, Mass. 617-471-7800. They are The BEST. He may be able to do it by application.
  10. Please do not start your car till you have this sorted, that fan WILL destroy your radiator. Their is no water pump behind the fan on your '32. It is on the right side of the motor behind the generator / dist. The fan hub used a small reservoir and oil pump to lube the fan blade shaft. You need to check and fill it with oil often, makes a mess under hood. Yours is most likely beyond repair. Most replace with sealed bearings in a new housing goes under pully and can not be seen. PM me with your contact info will walk you thru it. Best, Jim
  11. Barry, The wrist pin is meant to turn, if it is not a press fit or has a pinch bolt. The holes are for splash oiling. Good luck with your rebuild. Jim
  12. Ed, I think you may have an overdrive unit installed. We need pictures! Jim
  13. Steve, I was told by John at Brillman Co. 888-274-5562 not to use the Petronix electronic ignition on a 6 volt system. He has points, condenser, and HOT coils. My '32 Series 50 Model 57S runs great with his ignition products, dual points and all. Give him a call he is very knowledgeable. Jim
  14. my31buick you won't hear any gear noise with diesel. Thought aluminum would be somewhat quieter. John, I won't know till I see how many requests I get. So if we can get all the 1931 thru 1935 Series 50 that need them they should be fairly reasonable.
  15. Have a 1932 Series 50 Model 57S. Only the cam gear is available, out of phenolic as the original was but without the metal hub. Using the new cam gear with the old crank and generator gears will accelerate the wear on the new cam gear. If there is enough interest I will have new 3 gear sets manufactured. Crank and generator gears to be steel, cam gears to be made of aluminum. The flat head Ford used aluminum cam gears in their truck motors and phenolic in the cars. The phenolic was supposed to be quieter but the trucks were not any louder as I remember.
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