mike6024

(29.91-15)/2 = 7.46 sidewall height 7.62 cross section width times 0.95 aspect ratio = 7.24 sidewall height.

I'm watching a movie now that features not one, but two V-twins. Very good movie. Not sure if it would be of any help on this project, but maybe.

I remember when dad's pickup had 7.00-15 tires on it. Those were some tall narrow tires. Truck tires, LT. As far as the aspect ratio, it seemed it must have been taller (higher) than 80-series. Then the pickup got car type radial tires, 215R80-15 and those seemed to have a smaller overall diameter, wider tread. I think I have Bridgestone 235R80-15 on it now.

820R15 I don't even understand that size designation, but here it is : http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Coker-Tire-820R15-American-Classic-Bias-Look-Radial-3-25-Whitewall-Tire,104690.html Coker Tire 820R15 American Classic Bias-Look Radial 3.25 Whitewall Tire Position: Universal Tire Type: Passenger Car Tire Construction: Radial Tire Sidewall: Whitewall Wheel Diameter: 15 Inch Tire Size: 820R-15 Tire Diameter Range: 29.00 - 29.99" Tire Diameter: 29.91" Rim Width Range: 6.00 - 7.00" Section Width: 7.62" Tread Width: 5.6" Maximum PSI: 35 lbs Load Capacity: 1920 lbs. Load Index: 102 Speed Rating: S Tubeless Tire: Yes MFG. Part #: 700306 Sold in Quantity: Each GTIN Code: 00842199100808 Info These American Classic radials from Coker Tires are made in the USA and are tested to ensure quality as well as durability. True whitewall construction, along with the "pie crust" shoulder and vintage-style tread pattern give this tire the original look, while the radial internals make it the perfect choice for a car that will see plenty of miles. This is a tubeless tire, but keep in mind that tubes are required on some OEM and reproduction wire wheels. You can trust that these tires are ready to hit the road! Tread Width: 5.60" Section Width: 7.62" Overall Diameter: 29.91" Max Load Capacity: 1920@35PSI Tubeless Speed Rating: S Lucas has the same one for the same price, as well as some other that size. http://www.lucasclassictires.com/820-15_c190.htm 820R15 American Classic 3-1/4" Whitewall Radial Bias Ply Radial tire. Great replacement for Cadillac, Lincolns and Packards. Construction Tubeless Poly/Steel Load Capacity 1920 @ 35 psi Overall Diameter 29.91" Tread Width 5.3" Suggested Rim Width 6-6.5" Manufacturer: American Classic

Apple took Napster, which was stolen music shared for free online as mp3 files, and turned it into ITunes with downloads of songs only $1. That is very attractive compared to buying CD's for $14 each back then. Plus legitimate not stolen music. Millions of $1 song downloads. That was a smart business development idea. Make tons of money with millions of small transactions. Before that you had Apple selling Macintosh home computers. And Sony had the Walkman. Apple could then sell the Ipod, but the real revenue stream was the song downloads that followed.

Yes software problem. That is another option, relist with no reserve, low starting bid. Then cancel saying it is no longer available if the bids are not up to snuff. Need to cancel with 12 hours or more left to go. otherwise you can't cancel it in the last 12 hours. You can end your auction listing early, if: There are no bids yet on your item. There are bids on your item, and you are willing to sell your item to the current highest bidder. There are bids on your item and you don't want to sell it to the highest bidder, but there are 12 or more hours left in the listing. Whether you can end your auction listing early depends on if you've received any bids yet, how long is left in the auction, and if you have a reserve price in place. You can end your auction listing early, if: There are no bids yet on your item There are bids on your item, and you are willing to sell your item to the current highest bidder There are bids on your item and you don't want to sell it to the highest bidder, but there are 12 or more hours left in the listing. In this situation, you'll need to cancel all active bids before you can end your listing. We charge a fee for ending a listing in this way You can't end your auction listing early, if: There are fewer than 12 hours left in the listing, you've received bids, and you don't want to sell it to the highest bidder There are fewer than 12 hours left in the listing, you've received bids, but the item's reserve price hasn't been met yet If you're not eligible to cancel your listing, you can contact any bidders to explain the situation and ask them to retract their bids. If the auction has finished, you can contact the winner and, if they agree, you can cancel the transaction. Ending listings early disappoints bidders, so we may place limits and restrictions on your account if you are doing so regularly. Canceling a listing

If you can't lift the reserve try just lowering it. I often get notices that reserves have been lowered, on things, including cars, that I bid on.

So the original pin would have been 1/2 inch but things were loose so we considered 13mm to tighten things up. But the holes are at 13.1mm. Are you thinking of turning down a 14mm tool steel bar? or opening up the holes to 14mm? Here's something : 13.1mm = 33/64 inch almost exactly. Is that interesting? That is 1/2 inch plus 1/64 = 33/64. There are drills size 33/64, and this tool steel bar 33/64. 33/64 Inch Diameter Tool Steel, O-1 Oil Hardening Drill Rod, US $11.94 You could buy this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Value-Collection-33-64-Inch-Diameter-Tool-Steel-O-1-Oil-Hardening-Drill-Rod/283301115908?

In the specialized work of automotive careers, one midwest college is doing something unique. They’re educating and promoting the next generation of automotive restorers. That’s right…McPherson college is the only institution of higher education in America that offers a bachelor’s degree in restoration technology. As our FYI reporter Stephanie Hart explains, graduates are schooled in all aspects of the car collecting world. BASITH PH Man I need a tour at McPherson College! Curren Harris Come out to our 21st annual C.A.R.S Club Motoring Festival the first weekend in May 2020! We do shop tours and lab demonstrations as well as bring in around 400 cars from all over the country!

I think it is the curve of the rear roof pillar that makes it. "The Most Exciting Ford of a Lifetime!!!!" "Racy new Swept-Back Roof!!!!"

Actually photo was taken in 1928, So beyond that, the year and make of vehicle undetermined. Must be a 1928 or earlier something or other.

What did they do with the Cadillac Madame, or whatever? Did they even really buy it?

Carbon Steel Carbon Steel can be segregated into three main categories: Low carbon steel (sometimes known as mild steel); Medium carbon steel; and High carbon steel. Low Carbon Steel (Mild Steel): Typically contain 0.04% to 0.30% carbon content. This is one of the largest groups of Carbon Steel. It covers a great diversity of shapes; from Flat Sheet to Structural Beam. Depending on the desired properties needed, other elements are added or increased. For example: Drawing Quality (DQ) – The carbon level is kept low and Aluminum is added, and for Structural Steel the carbon level is higher and the manganese content is increased. Medium Carbon Steel: Typically has a carbon range of 0.31% to 0.60%, and a manganese content ranging from .060% to 1.65%. This product is stronger than low carbon steel, and it is more difficult to form, weld and cut. Medium carbon steels are quite often hardened and tempered using heat treatment. High Carbon Steel: Commonly known as “carbon tool steel” it typically has a carbon range between 0.61% and 1.50%. High carbon steel is very difficult to cut, bend and weld. Once heat treated it becomes extremely hard and brittle. Difference between 1018 mild steel and 1045 medium carbon steel - http://www.capitalsteel.net/news/blog/1018-vs-1045-steel-comparison .You see the 1045 has more carbon, is stronger and harder. 1018 1045 Iron, Fe 98.81-99.26% 98.51-98.98% Carbon, C 0.18% 0.45% Manganese, Mn 0.60-0.90% 0.60-0.90% Phosphorus, P (max) 0.04% 0.04% Sulfur, S (max) 0.05% 0.05% 1018 1045 Tensile Strength 64,000 psi 91,000 psi Yield Strength 54,000 psi 77,000 psi Elongation in 2" 15% 12% Reduction in Area 40% 35% Brinell Hardness 126 179

That 12.9 shoulder bolt would not be hardened. It would just be a high carbon, high tensile strength steel. But these are from China, so there is a question there about quality. The reason I suggested it is that it should be like a nice, uniform, 13mm with a smooth ground surface, so all you would need to do is cut the head off, and cut it to length, and drill your hole in it. So really no different than a high carbon, 13mm steel rod. Just the shoulder bolt is a nice short rod. Buy one a little longer than you need, you can pick the length. You do not want mild, low carbon steel. SAE bolt grades are 3, 5 and 8. You use 8 where quality and strength are important, like bolts for suspension and steering. Metric grade 12.9 is high grade comparable to SAE grade 8. http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx - Bolt grade links Grade and Material Mechanical Properties Min. Tensile Strength Class 8.8 Medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered 830 Class 10.9 Alloy steel, quenched and tempered 1040 Class 12.9 Alloy steel, quenched and tempered 1220 think if you then want to harden it, you (heat and) quench it, but not temper it. The tempering is heating again after the quench to reduce the hardness, and reduce the brittleness to lessen the chance of cracks developing. hardened steel can be more brittle, but it depends on the thickness. It should be hardened on the outside surface but the inside, tough. If you hard a thin piece of steel you could quench it, hardened all the way throughout, it would be expected to be brittle and break. Hardened steel. The term hardened steel is often used for a medium or high carbon steel that has been given heat treatment and then quenching followed by tempering. The quenching results in the formation of metastable martensite, the fraction of which is reduced to the desired amount during tempering. I took just one material science class back in college, don't remember much, but hardening was mentioned, and we did do some hardness tests in the lab using a Rockwell machine which tells you how hard based on how deep a dent a pin puts into the steel. When you quench, some of the carbon atoms remain "outside the matrix" because it cools too fast, making it hard. You change the steel grain structure. So, in summary, I'd say just get one of these 12.9 shoulder bolts and make your pin, and don't try to harden it or anything. Maybe you can tell how hard it feels by filing on it. it should definitely be harder than just a common mild steel rod. Just my opinion. You can make the rod any way you like, but if you buy some steel rod I think you should get a high-carbon alloy, not just any rod.

When the sun is setting, or just starting to rise is my favorite time to take pictures. Much better than in the glare of midday sun, like most car show pictures are taken. I think that's one of the reasons this picture came out so well. twilight the soft glowing light from the sky when the sun is below the horizon, caused by the refraction and scattering of the sun's rays from the atmosphere.

This is a very rare collector car and one you wont see very often. Only 550 1928 Auburn Phaeton convertible sedans were produced that year. How many models could possibly remain in existence today? 1928 was the first year for roll up window on the four door convertible. This prewar beauty is an award-winning car that has won National AACA and AACA Repeat Preservation Awards. It is reported that this Auburn was the 1928 New York Automobile Show display model. It was purchased by a couple at the show and driven home to Indianapolis. The car remained in the family until the late 1960's. In 1973 the car underwent a no expense spared, ground up restoration. It has remained in that family for 45 years now. The dual side mount exterior is a gorgeous tricolor tan, brown and black paint that is in excellent condition. The top is tan and in excellent condition. The leather interior is a deep red and presents in excellent condition. Engine is the Lycoming 8-cylinder 300 cubic inch paired with a 3-speed transmission with overdrive. The lube system is Bijur. Brakes are 4-wheel brakes on a 130-foot wheelbase. The gas gauge is a King-Seely. This beautiful Auburn has years of maintenance records. It has completed several tours over the years. It is recognized as a CCCA Full Classic. http://www.classicladymotors.com/used-vehicle-1928-auburn-phaeton-c-116.htm 704-996--3735

This is on that page too; $80k

Donovan Dingess: Where are you located at Love the comments online "Where you located at?" "I is located at Montreal, Quebec, Canada."

So the diameter of this worn pin is .506 inch or 12.85 mm or about 13 mm. I think it does need to be hardened, high carbon I think you could use one of these to make a new pin. It is a shoulder bolt (again!). D13 and 12.9. Where the 13 means the shoulder part is 13mm diameter, and 12.9 means the hardest, highest quality bolt. metric bolt grades being 8.8, 9.8, 10.9, and 12.9. I'd suggest buy one of these, they're cheap, Price:US $4.35 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/D13-M10-x-1-5mm-Socket-Head-Shoulder-Bolt-Stripper-Screw-High-Tensile-12-9/132444483292?

No I wouldn't do that. Yes it looks like it would be possible. Not advisable. That would be load bearing material you would be machining away. The original design is the link pin is fixed. The crank end of the link rod has a bushing in it. The force is transferred from the link rod to the master rod where that link pin is tightly fitted into the master, and fixed with the cotter pin. if the pin were allowed to float or rotate, you'd have another friction interface, but without any bushing. If you know what I'm saying.

Yes I imagine specifics are confidential.

Can I request some measurements, out of curiosity? 1. center to center, Master rod big end to wrist pin. 2. center to center, Link rod 3. Center of big end to center of link pin. Wonder if they add up. That is, if measurement #1 = #2 + #3

The nuts look OK from a functional perspective to me. The threads are OK and they appear to retain the bulk of their strength despite the chisel marks. The corners are good enough for a socket or box wrench to grab them, aren't they?

I just hope they go to good homes. That Ambassador would be great for weekend overnight trips. Room for four plus a bunch of luggage. It looks like this old pic shows the top irons, which are now missing.