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Hello does anyone have pictures or measurements for the fasteners and rear window placement on a 1949 Buick Super convertible?Thank you

Glad you have it working now you never know what previous owners did when they modify things as I mentioned mine had a modified wiring system took it out a put in a new harness.

Hello I just aligned back with the square plastic after removed arcing marks on both parts, this also caused the relay to fry so I had two problems that I had to figure out be careful when tightening down bolts.and make sure the contacts are hitting flat on each other.All this was on my car when I bought it along with a homemade wiring harness that I had to replace so I can relate to chasing down wires etc to find out the real problem was.

Hello the starter you have is identical to to mine ,it was contacting from the side contact getting twisted from tightening it and then it contacted the round contact.just that small square of plastic is supposed to to keep it aligned and in location might be something to be aware of I had worked on mine for a couple of days before figuring that out .Mine is converted to 12 volts also but never had an issue with the switch on carburetor or Dynaflow.Actually a 6 volt system has to handle more amperage so the original 6 volt switch should handle 12 volts that’s why have to use much thicker cable on on a 6 volt .Hope you find source of the problem I’ve been through similar issues and can be frustrating.Thought the new starter will help. Good luck .Gary

Finally got a chance to road test the changed out differential much quieter than the old one , doesn’t sound like being chased by a Wolfpack .Thank you to every one who responded to the post.Now on to the top installation. Gary

There was one of these on EBay for sale a few months ago

Solenoid would be the smaller cylinder is mounted towards the top on your starter,however if you take it apart may void any warranty it may have .I still think that there is a mesh issue on ring gear as others have mentioned as cause of the high load . My car rarely turns over more than six times before it starts.a high electric load will also keep car from starting, not having enough current for ignition system.

Sounds as if the new solenoid is stuck if it runs with just the battery cable attached should not run unless solenoid is contacting I would pull the flywheel cover and Check ring gear and mesh of gears.on my high torque starter the solenoid did stick I took the two long screws that held it together and separated the stuck contacts then filed down the burnt marks . I think your ring gear and Starter are hanging up overloading the motor.

Also when ingnition is in off or lock positions ,starter should have no power, My car has a new reproduction harness in it and replicated the original. Perhaps some one did some rewireing that’s causing problems.

To check the ring gear on flywheel there is a cover at bottom of bellhousing held on with 6 bolts if I remember correctly,this will give easy access to see if ring gear is damaged should be able to see if Starter gear is meshing with it .you will be able to see about a third of the flywheel with removing cover.

Hello if you put the car in drive assuming it’s a Dynaflow, should cut power to starter if setup correctly also the switch on the carburetor should brake contact to starter maybe check the carburetor linkage if Starter is still running manually pull wire off carburetor switch and see if it stops. I mentioned earlier the relay on my high torque stuck shut and did the same thing you are experiencing but with new parts this should not be a problem.

Just changed out the differential in my 49 Buick dealers had a fixture to separate and reassemble the drive shaft I bought a bearing separator from Harbor Freight and heavy duty screw clamps to do mine . Check thru previous posts in the forum there is a number of them regarding the differential and driveshaft .This should be done with pinion gear out of carrier rather than the way I did this ,waiting for better weather to test mine out .Good luck.Gary

Ok thanks for the invite hope to see you next year . The main business section of town burned down gas station convenance store. Small pleasant little town.

It was on car when I bought it so I can’t help you there may have came from Bobs when car was “restored “about 10 years ago .not sure what is available now , mine bolts right up but the solenoid connectors are modern push on type .appently your solenoid is sticking maybe from change to 12 volt?

Aside from the relay mine has the hi torque starter it works and is reliable.you may have to change some of the wiring terminals.Trying to find someone to rebuild it locally may be hard ,the original starter and solenoid can be rebuild but probably have to send it out .

Hello again mine on a 49 is similar to this on it the main battery post is connected to large terminal it has two smaller wires coming out of it for solenoid that connects to the relay that was bad it would continue to crank when battery was connected.apperently the relay was stuck in closed position causing the problem.Once again this was on car when I bought it As I said I took out the old harness and put in a new one from YandZ car had lots of modifications so made it hard to track problems it was kind of a 12 and 6 volt operation. Good luck on tracking it down I was able to get a new relay at Autozone was around 8.$Mine bolts right to engine without modifications,with exception of wiring made up a terminal block so didn’t have to cut up new harness.Gary.

I mean 37 at closer look .one of my favorites.late pre war era.

Hello ,I will have to remember your show for next year I was in Evergreen visiting relatives ,did rain a lot felt like I was Back home in North western Pa. Nice 38 by the way .Gary

Hello although mine is a 49 I had the complete front end off for painting,really with exception of the hood ,fenders weren’t that heavy good access to everything thing that way used a generous anmounts of nut blaster on bolts lucked out and didn’t brake any. Take a lot of pictures as you mentioned so you won’t be wondering were those funny angle pieces or whatever came from ! Good luck .

Hello again mine also had been converted to 12 volt also there was resistors on it with a home made harness I wound up replacing it with a new original type harness changing all light bulbs etc the only place I have a resistor is for the original radio. As I mentioned there was a issue with the relay for the high torque starter it stuck and continue to crank engine it didn’t have that much use on it before it failed.Good luck on it.if it is a relay easy to replace.but as I said original type starter has none .

If this has a replacement hi torque starter motor ,check the relay mine was changed to this type would not disengage as relay was bad however not if it’s the original system does not use relay..

Hello there are two electric lockouts on your car there is one on carburetor looks football shaped with two wires going to it ,opens with engine vacuum when running it can be adjusted with shims if Carter or bending if stromburg also on steering column there is a switch connected to Dynaflow linkage it only allows current flow if it is park or nutral .these may not be working or adjusted properly.Check out a 1948 49 Buick shop manual may help explain it better. On some cases the flywheel ring gear gets damaged and will lockup on bendix drop down the flywheel cover to check that out. Good luck and let us know what you find out Gary

Is it a Special A series?that used. Chevrolet bodied A type ?

Hello put in the seals they have about.02!clearance between seal edge and race may had made them to be stronger when removing axles .fit into housing well Will post if any further development.Gary

Hello I also had a post on this in postwar Buick a man that posted by the name of Parry Garner hope I have neme right had a whole rear assembly available.Please look back in those posts and contact him he might be able to help you out.Nice green Buick I used to seeing my car in gray.Good luck again.