maok

Thanks for doing the test Bloo, I don't have a 6 volt battery. I think your results to some degree confirms your statement above. I obviously did not correlate the higher speed to the high power transfer. I guess we are trying to determine if the starter is being damaged Now the questions are; 1. Where does that extra power (wattage) go, spinning the starter and hence engine to a higher speed, or heat, or a combination of both? 2. And does it do damage to the starter?

Same as my '28. But the Firestones on my '28 don't have enough grip to drive sideways on walls....?

An interesting experiment would be to place a DC clamp meter (on the amps setting) around the starter motor wire with 12 volts and 6 volts batteries.

And yet you need bigger cables with a 6 volt battery. How could this be Bloo? Your use of Ohms laws is fine when the motor is not moving but when the motor moves it becomes a dynamic electrical circuit with back EMF affecting the circuit. So its complicated. Someone with a higher pay rate can explain it better than I can. I used the power equation in my earlier post because its simple. The engine requires the same amount of power (actually its probably slightly more with the 12 volts because of the faster spin speed causing some more friction) to turn it over regardless of the battery voltage. Regarding the heat generated, you have to take into account 'TIME', a starter motor only spins for a few seconds at the most, hence the reason why they don't have a cooling fan built-in, unlike an alternator/generators. With a reasonably tuned engine, starter motor does not get hot enough because it is only spinning for 2-3 seconds at a time. If you have a badly tuned engine then yes, heat will cause issues inside the starter motor, but this is regardless of the voltage, specially if the starter gets stuck in the flywheel gears.

Its unlikely it was because a 12 volt battery was used a couple of times. I have been running my '28 Chrysler with a 12 volt battery for nearly 3 years (it was running with a 12 volt battery before I got it as well) and I start the engine more than most. Its the current (amps) that produces the heat in combination with resistance and time, not the higher voltage. Remember, there is less amps going through your starter when powered by a 12 volt battery than a 6 volt battery. The total 'power' (Power = Volts x AMPs ) used is approximately the same regardless if its powered by 6 volts or 12 volts.

The below is from this site - https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/39387/how-are-current-and-voltage-related-to-torque-and-speed-of-a-brushless-motor In any motor, the basic principle is very simple: rotational speed is proportional to voltage applied torque is proportional to current pulled A 100 volt motor is a motor that can take a maximum of 100 volts, and a 50 volt motor a maximum of 50 volts. Since the 100 volt motor can take more volts, if all else is equal, it can give you a higher maximum speed. But the difference in voltage does not affect the torque. To get more torque to go up a hill, you need to supply your motor with more current. A motor that can take more current (and a battery and motor controller that can supply more current) will give you more torque to help you up the hill.

The turning speed is based on the Voltage the starter motor is feed, hence the reason why a 12 volt battery will turn over a starter faster than a 6 volt battery. Note, the battery needs to be able to supply enough amps (ie CCA of the battery) to handle the resistance of the of the engine. If your car does take time to fire, thicker cables are important, especially for a 6 volts system.

Does James do a 12volt version of his regulator?

Also, I hooked up a volt meter in my car and the voltage at +20mph reads well over 16 volts, not sure how high it is actually reaching. Not great for your battery life.

Hi all, has anyone order one of James Peterson's voltage regulators for 3rd brush generators recently? I have sent him an email about 2 weeks ago but have had no response so far.

If you wish to just prime the carb before starting then you won't need to worry about the pressure. Just trigger it with a momentary push button switch. Also have an inline fuse, 5 amp should be okay.

I follow the real Aussie footy - AFL.

Oops, sorry mate. I uploaded the wrong page.?

User Manual page 39.pdf This is the wiring diagram for 1928 Chrysler series 62, I hope its helpful.

I jokingly say to my passengers 'to hold on to your hats', while holding on to my Boater hat going over speed humps or rough terrain....:)

You make an assumption that the market is high or at its peak, and others may think its at the bottom. IMHO, it is foolish to try predict the future. Also, young guys get old too, so their interests change. I am a classic exmaple of this, I would never of thought of getting into the vintage car market in my 20's or 30's but now that I am in my 40's my interests changed from muscle cars to vintage cars.

I think the community is saying that you are wrong in your assessment that pre-war cars are expensive. They have given examples of value cars for sale. But the term, 'value', is very subjective. Every Tom, Dick and Sally has their own belief of 'value'.

Were stuck...?

A quick test to see if the needle and seat are closing is to set the float level 'low' if it doesn't flood then your float level is too high.

It is very similar to JR series Tillotson, I'm not sure what model it is. Here is a JR5;

okay, I can see it going thru the bowl now. Is there a main metering screw at an angle underneath?

The yellow circle is probably a drain plug, my JR2 has it is under side of the fuel bowl, a simple screw plug.

If this couple can go around the world in a 1915 Ford Model T I can't see why your wonderful '55 Olds can't be driven every day.

I have this type of needle and seat in my carter bb1; https://daytonaparts.com/daytona-carburetor-float-valve.html