ArticiferTom

Go to any appliance repair shop or junk yard ,ask for 12 ga. Hi temp wire. It's used in ovens and has the braided jacket like old wire and tinned inner wire may be even 14 ga. . Most electric whse's will have but min. roll is expensive . I used on mine and to replace some of new wire that was add to mine over the years. In future I'll loom some harness together . If you cannot find I'll send you some . If your talking brush screws make sure you counter hold , so as to not twist . Sometime a clean solder gun to heat screw will help .

Yeah , I emailed for info first . Then Danielle ask for vin ., contacted me back saying they had it ,to file forms . There are different prices based on what's available . Dave sent you pdf of forms . Tom PS you'll have to send proof of ownership with check and form .

Our you doing the generator yourself or sending out ? I have some good info on cleaning and testing . Lube is oil wicks and inner pulley side bearing ,make sure drains are clear . I found cloth insulation bad on my unit . cleaned with elect-clean and rapped in glass tape then varnished .I was not going to desolder to heat shrink . Make sure to under cut communators if needed ,black streaking . Do use hard abrasive on the bars ,causes extra bush wear . I used large eraser to clean carbon of and fine polish . tom

Wow , I wasn't expecting that . What way is up ? What's nozzle for ? My alum had bunch hole in it, is this a ventilation something ? Tom

If you have a top clutch cover like earlier 30's you must take and access it there as the spring hooks under lip of cover and to arm bearing . Hope your floor come out easy or you'll need a good mirror . Look at Daphane restore thread pg. 40 see hole top cover off third bottom off center hole is where spring goes.

Hello Spinneyhill how did you make out with that speedometer shaft ? I finial got my unit done . First ordered some low temp alum. solder in paste . Did not work for butt splice . Then found similar (damaged) Northeast unit on ebay ,and lucked out part I need was perfect except for number font . That I can vinyl over in future . While I had dash down I removed and cleaned other gages ,cleaned, painted bezels and re-nickeled all three back . Also fixed cork gasket on dash lights, cleaned all electrical connections . Attached is pic of my finished parts and also left-over parts of donor unit . If there's anything you can use let me know ie glass ,screws ,shafts , bucket .

Do some more reading on silicone before you change . I was going to switch when I did total brake rebuild . There was something that stopped me . I do not remember if was that it does not absorb moisture which can cause a ice block in freezing climate . Or that it was developed for the hi -temps. of today disc system that keep it cleaned of condensate . I read of classic guys removing and going back to DOT3 . Tom

You may find that some of that 3/16 x 3/16 rubberized cork used on headlight gasket would rap around in there . Filling Station Chevy sells it $2.50 for two I think . Tom PS Do you have pic of the cover for clutch hole above . Mine is covered with an oversize piece of pounded out white alum. rain gutter . IT MUST GO >

My contact back in June was danielle.szostake@fcagroup.com . She send me a attachment with forms to fill out and mail with check . If you email me I'll forward form to give you jump on Nov 1 start-up . Tom shultzs4@ptd.net

I think it says NON SCATTER in reference to glass . See cover letter under glass typed same way . Tom

I'm working on my gages right now . It's hard to believe the hours you can put in to it . I would call that face plate perfect . I have been using that evapo- rust . Suppose to remove only rust not paint . It only failed me once as the rust was under the paint so everything came off a license plate I was doing. I repainted inner divider but no face plates that have writing . I did remove all paint someone sprayed on bezels and re nickeled . I had electro- kit from years ago . Came out good on the brass ,fair on the zinc . Good Job! Tom

If you have brass sleeves in your wheels corroding with aluminum pistons . may be cheaper to have some brass cups made ,the design seem pretty simple . I know if ends are damaged you can get replacement 1 1/4" alum. pistons from later model Chevys' .

Need to know amperage output of 6volt generator on my '31 Dodge with Plymouth 4 cyl. .I have no ID plate on the generator . I want to make sure fuse on back of amp gage is sized right . Gage itself is Northeast 30 + and - max. Was also think of up grading headlights cp's . Thanks Tom

If you are, consider Hagen's in Washington state . Did my '31 Dodge pickups last month all 4 cyl sleeved in stainless and rebuilt with what ever cups needed replacement . Even replaced rounded off bleeders with good original type and relined shoes . Every thing came back derusted , sealed and read to install . The turn around was 8 days door to door and price was the best .

EVEN BETTER WHEN A GOOD SMACK DOES IT ! Tom

Good Luck ! I'm doing same myself now bur it was only down 7 years . I found more Tees E-bay under Brass Branch Tee you'll need to now you size price Is a quarter of new . tom

A B's site G-260 $45.00 read description not pics . NAPA may have Dorman makes similar . Your welcome .

Just looked Advance auto as many different size tees ,you just add male-male to one end . Looks like yours as a fitting in it . Tom

Andy Ber. in brake (G) section . Did you try him ?

Yes , if the building is unheated the air will hold the moisture, but only the air and object within . This why ventilation high and low is important limiting the moisture to atmospheric only . This will reduce itself faster with roof heating from sun . Go in most barns the bottom on grade floor is damp but second hay storage area is always dry or drying ,but also cold or hot . Or why even a tight trailer off the ground is dry inside . I would probable add a internal work shop /garage inside with heat and a/c . Even the pre made shed/ garage stay dry because they are off the ground a couple inches . Another thing is for every inch of concrete it will take about a year for it to complete dehydrate . My house took about six years with heating and dehumidification to completely dry .

The vapor barrier is the most important item . There are plastic's made specifically for this it is very strong ( yellow ) and it is taped at joints with a (red) tape of equal strength . I'm sure there other brand , this is what I see used on large construction slabs at work . Plain poly plastic is not good enough ,it migrates moisture . They also put the vapor barrier down under the modified or gravel ,mostly done to protect it from concrete trucks and us electricians damaging it . Maybe pull back some of your sand if clean and place back or add new if available . Moisture will then only be available from the atmosphere it can not accumulate in the earth . I learned from studying , building and living in underground home (earth sheltered ) ,for 28 yrs . Basic structure is concrete , vapor barrier , foam insulation , EPDM rubber membrane , 1" styrene protection for rubber and gravel drain field . Can be seen a little in my avatar , with retaining wall . Also you do not need reinforcing metal in your floor if you decide to pour . Get the concrete with fiberglass reinforcement mixed in .

RESTORATER , or PRESERVER or TRUSTEE . any, maybe with OF THE PAST

It needs something more . Like TECHNICIAN or SERVICEMAN or ENTHUSIAST .or HISTORIAN , something !

Thank you, Was a pleasure talking to you about this . At time I did know where trans type changed away from that floating secondary shaft .

Looking for on my '31 dodge pickup w artillery wheels . Speeds under 60 downhill with wind . Never heard of over heating ,was just looking for quality . Forums seem to say today's import tubes are so bad , of coarse with internet you only hear bad, not necessarily the other 500 good .