mensanguy

Just did this job. If you have a lift, you got it made. If not, use a jack and follow the procedure below. 1-chock all the wheels 2-loosen up the left front wheels lug nuts 3-jack up the left side of the car-high as possible 4-remove the wheel and tire 5-contort your body so you can reach underneath thru the suspension, and manipulate your arm up to the fittings 6-this is where a crows-foot wrench or stubbys are worth their weight in gold. 7-there are two sizes of fittings, I believe 11 and 13mm With a little luck, and finesse, you should be able to loosen all three fittings and remove them. A WORD TO The WISE-- be very careful with how you move and handle the brake lines, in that if you get them out of alignment, they are a beach to get started again. Ask me how I know this.

I agree, Rock has some great prices on select items BUT- I would like to add my two cents worth based on my experiences 1- Make sure that the part is the correct part for your vehicle. A lot of times the parts are listed by an interchange chart or something like that, and they will not fit. Example- spark plug wires for a 16v. There are 27 items listed, but none of them will fit the 16v engine. When in doubt, check the part numbers with other sources. Yes, Rock allows returns, but what are the savings if you pay $13.99 to have it shipped to you, and have to pay 13.99 to ship it back ( 28 bucks for shipping total) to get a refund on a part that is a "real-Deal" at 7.99?? Which brings me to no. 2-- While you are ordering parts online, open another screen and check prices at Ebay or Amazon. I have found this to be an ideal resource for price comparisons, and in a lot of cases the same, identical OEM or compatible parts are a lot cheaper than Rocks closeouts, and many offer free shipping. Just because they are closeouts at Rock doesn't mean that they are a great deal, although I have gotten some great bargains at the site.

There is a Getrag/Muncie 284 trans for sale on e bay if anyone is interested $500.00 https://www.ebay.com/itm/232636240037?ul_noapp=true

Prices please!!

I have used a very small pair of needle nose pliers, and a lot of finesse'. However, if all else fails, disconnect the battery, and squeeze hard until the bulb breaks. it's already burned out-right? Then all you have to do is grab the filament and yank out.

Have you looked on this site? I have seen several for sale that meet your criteria There is one currently being advertised fro $2500 or so.......

Same thing as the TC owners--getting old, stiff, and the grease dries out causing them to jam-up. Or, it could be a sending unit I have been down this road several times, and the best thing I ever did was take them to a repair facility and get the gears replaced, and the speedo cleaned and lubed. If you are really good with precision instruments you can do it yourself, but the shops have the skills and knowledge to do it right. -works like a charm now.

There is a fellow in Newport News ( also in VA!) who sells these gears, if you are lucky he may even offer to repair your speedo, as he did mine! I will research this, and try to get you and answer asap.

Do you have the A/C brackets and line sets for the 16V?

Congrats on your new toy! If you're ever down the Norfolk way, look me up. I have three TC's now, and am always willing to help a fellow TC'er. I have much experience in preserving the interiors and dyeing with leatherique. you may be surprised at what can be done with bad looking seats.

What year/model is this list for?

Have you tried a Le Baron one? Seems like I had the same thing happen to me, and I went to a junkyard and found one that was a close match. I may have it still in my archives....

Looks like Va tags, Va inspection sticker, so I would say Virginia! ( where I live)

Black rust oleum. Get a ultra fine tipped brush, and take your time. I did mine and it looks like oem.....

Cosmoline, I have used it on many vehicles, it is sprayed on with a low pressure spray gun that gets it everywhere. The clear is the nicest, and looks better on inner fenders and underhood. the black, commonly used as an undercoat, tends to go everywhere, but it does what it is supposed to, be a rust preventative and sound deadener. A job best done outdoors, cause clean up is a B----h!

203171 1989 royal cab, royal cab int, blk top sohc 204233 light yellow, ginger , black 16v 5sp

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Chrysler-LeBaron-/253083339078?hash=item3aecf14946:g:xoIAAOSwM2RZhQDv&vxp=mtr Check out this listing from E-bay, listed by the owner as " Recovered theft". I have bought many theft recovery vehicles in my younger life, and this reeks of fraud. Whoever jacked it knew EXACTLY which parts to pull, down to the smallest detail. Notice that the seat switches are also missing, along with the console lid and all of the "in-demand" hard-to-find parts. Looks like it has been sitting for a while also. Someone who REALLY knew these cars had to be behind this. Could it be that it was really NOT stolen, and the owner is trying to pull a Fast One????? Can someone run the VIN at NCIC to see if it really was stolen? Inquiring minds want to know.................

Do yourself a favor, a BIG favor, and replace ALL the hoses with quality FUEL INJECTION hose, not just fuel line hose. When I bought my 2nd TC, the lines had all been replaced, but with regular fuel line! A fire waiting to happen. It did run fine with no problems, but there is a world of difference in quality and pressure capabilities regarding the two hoses. And-use the Fuel -injection clamps only. Again, a world of difference. The hose costs about $9 per 18" length. I know this can get kind of expensive, but what is the cost of a totaled car because of an engine fire??

I had this problem on my 16v. IAC valve went bad, and screwed up the idle big time. I wouldn't trust the cheap replacements. You can never go wrong with OEM, or quality, name brand replacements like Delphi, Standard or similar. Considering all the trouble it takes to remove ( BOTH of the mounting bolts on mine snapped requiring drilling and re-tapping) is it really worth the little $$ you save by buying cheap? Also, what is the reliability on the cheap parts? Ever been left stranded by a cheap part that failed early? I have, and it cured me once and for all-you really do get what you pay for. My vote is to choose the Delphi. While you're at it, I would also clean the seat where the pintle contacts, and the throttle blades as well. Made all the difference in the world in mine.

Yes. There may be a vacuum-controlled cut-out in the system that turns off the A/C compressor under hard accelerating/high load conditions, so the engine will deliver max power. I have that on several of my cars, and not just TC's. Don't worry, its a good thing. And if you don't like it, its a simple matter to disable it, once you locate the switch.

Yeowzah! Gives new meaning to customer service!!

As Colombo would say--Er, just one more thing............. I wasn't thrilled with the rougher than normal idle, but could live with it. One thing I couldn't live with was no A/C, and the lack of air vent control. It had defaulted to the defrost position, and changing buttons did not shift the air direction. This told me the a vacuum line to the control was off. However, an inspection revealed that all was connected properly as it should be. After an hour of pulling my hair out ( which is difficult because I'm bald) I found the culprit. The vacuum check valve LOOKED healthy from the top, ( picture 1, view from the top) BUT, when I ran my fingers around it I found the real problem--(see picture 2) it had rubbed against the exhaust manifold, and 1--melted and sealed the heat/cool side so that no vacuum got delivered and 2- melted a hole in the vacuum side so that there was a constant vacuum leak. ( see the tiny hole in the black side?) A quick trip to the auto parts store for a replacement gave me both A/C and a better idling engine! Thought I'd pass this along to anyone who might have the same problem. Again, thanks to all for their help.

Found the problem! The idle-air motor was to blame ( I think). I had checked everything else, so my next thing was to replace it. It wasn't that easy though, both bolts snapped off when I attempted to remove it. Grrrrrrr! So, off with the intake again, but this time I took Ever-E-Thing off, to eliminate any possible problem. Cleaned or blew out anything I could. Hit that throttle body with a good cleaning. injectors looked new, and replaced all fuel lines and vacuum lines just for the hell of it. Took my time doing it, and when I hit the starter it fired right up! After letting it warm up and settle down, I took it on the interstates and opened it up. DAMN! So this is how they are supposed to run! Came home, and it was running so fine it brought a tear to my eyes. OK, it was really my allergies, but it idled down and ran so smooth I was totally impressed Thanks everyone for all your help and support. it was greatly appreciated.

mailto:Copart@e.copart.com

1989 TC with small engine fire located in Denver Co co-part auction. No sale date set, yet. Looks very clean. Think it was the fuel lines??? Could be a great deal for someone, so far $0 money on it