hook

Could someone refresh my memory? When was the first Cazenovia Franklin Trek? My first Trek was the 24th in 1977 and it had been going on at Caz for a few years then. Thanks Bill Hook

They still make the stuff, although not with asbestos.

Ben, your too old to be fooled. Your right on. Many moons ago I used them. Bill

Both of these tools are used for serious work on an engine while still in the car, Now, that's something not done too much anymore. The second photo is for removal and installation of the main bearing seal. Now, who's going to describe what the items in the first photo are used for.

As a Franklin owner and fan of air cooled cars, I'd say this car is water cooled!

Maybe this will help

Your right, that's not a shop manual. Today there are shop manuals printed for every car/truck built. They're large, usually many volumes and very expensive. A simple Dodge pickup (not so simple) has 5-6 volumes with a total thickness of over 12". Cost? Several hundred dollars. Not at all like the days of old.

Peter, I think #21 Running boards is a little premature. As long as there are big pickup truck lovers, be they gasoline or electric, there will be running boards.

How does one get in or out without lowering the top. AND, if you are a proper lady of the times, there's just no way!!!

The first attempt at social distancing during a pandemic..............

Gee! Kinda reminds me of Hershey flea market conditions of old.

Yes, when they speak of Morgans having wood frames they're talking about body framing not chassis. Morgans still have wood body framing.

All Franklins had laminated ash frames through 1928

I lightened it to look at the front spring. You can just make out the front of the full elliptic spring. Anybody's guess on the rear set up. The car is definitely a mongrel.

Paul, check out just in front of the front wheel. It is sitting on full elliptic springs in the front anyway. They look pretty flattened out, maybe leaves removed. Bill

Speaking of F88

i have seen this on several cars. I don't know if it was ever a production or accessory item, but it works. You just have to make it look like it belongs there.

Speaking of safety. If you use an electric fuel pump on any vehicle, modern or antique, please, please for your own safety and others include an inertia switch. This will shut down the pump after an impact and prevent fuel from being shot everywhere. I will now get down from my soapbox.

I said try an electric fuel pump, not replace the system with one. After proving the tank and line are good, you can use an electric pump to prove the mechanical isn't working.

I think a bad pump. Sometimes a rebuild job only includes the diaphragm, valves and springs. No linkage replacement or pins. Also, maybe they dressed the arm that rides against the cam. If the tank fuel line proves OK, definitely try an electric pump.

After a closer look, you may be right.

The one on the left I believe is a Symington Wayne pump

Here's the basic oil chart to give the basic years for the API letters.

Youtube has a very good instructional video on how to set up and use the Hoppy aimer,

I had a similar problem with a later Pontiac rod. The rod bolt was just slightly turned and I didn't notice it. It torqued up just fine. But very soon after it started, it developed a rod knock. I never let that happen to me again...never! Be careful, even pros slip up.