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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Leaking freeze plug? I'm not a Buick expert, but some engines have plugs on the rear of the block and it could be leaking.
  2. A slow slog for the last week. It's been raining here almost every day for the last month. My trip to Ed's shop was delayed as he had to finish an aluminium airplane tail for a client in Kansas. Now it looks like he will have my fenders ready next Friday and we'll take the body off for the rust repair then. I understand, but I was revved up to go yesterday and it was a disappointment to say the least. Crin is working on the woodgraining and I'm removing the old seat material and cleaning and painting the seat springs. One of the most boring and unexciting jobs in recorded history. I'm al
  3. Are the kingpins on a 1932 DL the same as those used on a DK, or are we talking different axles?
  4. Check Crin's site out. He takes pictures of all his customer's projects as he works on them. I live very close, so I can go over and see how things are progressing, but for his out of town customers it's a perfect way to keep up on progress on their cars. I also want to point out that although my pictures make this process look easy - it's not. it's comparable to handing someone a paintbrush, paints and canvas and expecting them to produce a masterpiece. I could tell at first glance that it had taken years of practice for Crin to be so assured in his technique. That's why I used him ins
  5. Took a trip to my woodgraining guy, Crin, yesterday. He uses the Grain-it system. I brought over the two last pieces of trim that I negelcted to notice and remove. They go on the sides of the windshield. They were a little crusty. Crin went to work with his cabinet blaster. And before long they were ready for primer. Crin had already primed most of my pieces. An original, he kept for color matching, isat the bottom. The primer lays down a nice, smooth surface. He uses two coats, sanding in between. The next step is to lay down the base color. My parts were not ready
  6. Looking more closely at my original tank, I think the filler and sending units are soldered onto the tank, not welded. If that's correct, it will make things easier - at least for me. The only thing that bothers me about the tank ply33 mentioned is that the fuel line comes out of the top of the tank. I'm not sure I have room between the tank and the cover for that style pickup.
  7. ply33 that tank is very close - just an inch or so short. It looks like I would have to weld up their filler opening, then weld my filler and sending unit mount to the tank. My car (I think your Plymouth does, too) has a cover over the tank between the frame rails with two openings for the above, so I have to have those two openings in exactly the right place. At that price, it may be worth a try - especially with the free shipping.
  8. Took a look at the gas tank today. Lots of rust and varnish, weak metal. Vertict - I need a new tank. A light tapping on the end of the tank buckled the metal. This tank is toast. It's too bad, as some of the metal still looks good. Here are the levels from undercoat, to rust, to wirebrushed to sanded. I can salvage the fittings - the filler neck and the sending unit mount. They are in good shape. The tank is 38X15X8. The closest generic tank I could find is 34X13X9 for $185. A stainless steel tank to original specs is $740. I'm hoping Ed, my body guy, will agree to build me a
  9. I'll try it. I've never had acetone react with brass in the past.
  10. My gas tank sending gauge gears are totally gummed up with varnish from 45 years of sitting. The stuff is hard as rock and I'm afraid I'll damage the brass gears trying to get it off. Is there anything that will dissolve this varnish without harming the metal parts of the unit?
  11. I'm about to try this also. What did you use to replace the rivets?
  12. Yes, it is amazing. But, I discovered it's also relative. As I was watching Ed work with my jaw on the floor, he mentioned he could never learn to operate the camera I was using to shoot the process. When I tried to explain why I was using a certain lens and a follow-focus shot I wanted to do and he just laughed and said it was way beyond him. Most of us can do something well, but it's just nice to see someone else do something we could never imagine.
  13. Just to follow up, I had no problems getting my Illinois title. They did send the paperwork back because I hadn't signed the form for unfettered summer driving. I signed it and sent everything back in and got my title about two months later.
  14. I don't know, Phil. It's a guy thing. I don't need no stinking directions. Well, maybe I do. I need to remember the manual, it's a very detailed little booklet.
  15. I figured it might have something to do with the steering or handling. Thanks, Phil.
  16. As I was disassembling my 32 DL for restoration I noticed something odd - at least to me - about the front springs. At the front of the frame, where the spring eyes attach to the frame, there are two different mounting systems on my car. The driver side, with some sort of snubber attachement. Sorry about all the grease, but you get the idea. And the passenger side with no attachemt. Is this correct, or have I lost something along the way?
  17. While Ed further massaged the fenders, I took off the back bumper - we removed the front before work on the fenders - and the luggage rack. I then removed the back fenders - Ed will work on them off the car. The driver side fender had been removed or replaced at some point. I could tell by the replacement bolts and the discovery of more modern fender welt between the fender and body. This fender was damaged when Dave Taylor, on of my fraternity brothers, backed the Dodge out of the frat house driveway and into a parked car. We lost the taillight with that mishap and pushed the fender in. Af
  18. A huge day yesterday. I got up at 6 AM and made the 2 1/2 hour drive to Thomas Restorations and Fabrications in central Missouri. A nice, warm, sunny day. Arrived at 9 to find Ed Thomas and Daphne waiting for me on the lift. This was my first chance to get a good look at her underside. Lots of surface rust and more than enough grease to lube six cars, but everything looked very solid and intact. The frame appeared straight and the rust was surface only. We removed the gas tank and managed to get it off without damaging the two straps that hold it to the frame. The smell of varnish in
  19. Apparently the guy who bought mine was more into flash than function, opting for the dual sidemounts and shunning the vacuum-assisted clutch. Average salary in 1932 was around 5 dollars a day based on a five day work week.
  20. The Plymouths of the same period had a similar window arrangement. Chrysler seemed to love weird and complicated engineering, despite the Depression. Imagine how complex and expensive it was to design and manufacture that window mechanism. Same goes for the vacuum clutch and Floating Power.
  21. Yes, they have a matching brown with a slightly darker pattern woven in, but it's from SMS, not LB. I'll get some close-ups and post them tomorrow.
  22. Or fade to the greenish tan the original has become. I'll probably be long gone before anything gets that far.
  23. Well, my wife and I found fabric from LaBaron Bonney that comes very, very close to the original. I'm still struggling with the correct shade of brown now that we discivered the dirty tan is just a faded remnant of the original. I have very good, unbleached examples of the fabric used on the door panels and up above the rear seat. The LB fabric possibly has a little more of a greenish tinge to it than the original, but it's very close. The nap and weave of the fabirc is the same, so we're in good shape there. Try as I might, I can't find a good, unfaded example of seat fabric. Mine is too f
  24. Isn't the axle held on by the outer bearing race? The two bearings on the axle are sandwiched between two races and the outer race needs to be pulled out to free the axle. Since this outer race is pressed or driven into the axle housing after the axle is installed, don't you need some sort of puller to get the axle out? I may be wrong here, but since I'm going to have to address this on my 32 dodge DL I'd like to be sure. Maybe you can exert enough force using the brake drum method to get everything free - I hope so! EDIT: I missed the slide hammer reference. That's the direction I was go
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