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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Check out this video: It shows a stop motion sequence of a guy rebuilding a 1925 DB transmission. I don't know if it will help, but it shows him fitting the disassembled clutch/pressure plate to the trans shaft, then later installing the assembled unit.
  2. The clutch housing and pressure plate should come off as a unit with no problems. Just undo the bolts holding it onto the flywheel. At least that's the way my 32 DB and 48 Plymouth worked. Maybe someone with a 25 has a better answer.
  3. And thanks DodgeKCL for mentioning N/C in the first place. Didn't mean to forget you, but Ian jumped in and I got the two of you confused in the wealth of good information. This happens when you are as old as dirt - like I am.
  4. I just checked with N/C Industries and it looks like they have the brackets. They are sending me a catalog so I can take a look and see if they're right. The tail light stand is definitely different for the 32. I have my original stand, but there is a chunk out of the top where it attaches to the fender. I may be able to build it back up with epoxy and have it cast if all else fails. The car never had the original tail light. It had been changed out 1965 when I originally bought the car.
  5. Thanks, Ian - NC Industries sounds like a winner, but on their website they only list windshield frames. I guess I'll have to ask for one of their catalogs. I don't think the tail light brackets are the same for 32s, but I'll give them a call Monday and see what's up. I appreciate the heads up. Not sure of the splash pans - I'll send your picture to Phil Kennedy - whose DL still has them attached - and see what he thinks. They look fairly easy to fabricate.
  6. dc-8dave, I didn't see, or hear, any crying. The discussions centered around part numbers, possible making of parts and the fun of the chase. I restored a 1929 Plymouth in the mid-seventies, and remember going up around Port Huron, Michigan to Burchill's (if I remember correctly) and buying four NOS hubcaps, NOS door handles, a NOS tail light and dozens of other NOS parts for the car. Old parts were a lot more common back then, cheaper and easier to find. Got an original crankhole cover in the factory box at Hershey in 1975. You probably walked 15 miles in the snow to school in your bare
  7. Yeah, I figured the splash aprons were going to be tough to find. I looked at Phil's and they don't seem that difficult to make. I put something up on the H.A.M.B as they are unfortunately the kind of things the rodders pitch right away.
  8. On a quest for missing parts for my 1932 Dodge DL sedan. I need a tail light, tail light stalk, license plate bracket, engine splash aprons and a rear seat foot rest. Okay, I can hear the laughing from here. I'm also searching for the Lost Dutchman mine - and probably have a better chance of finding it before I find the parts I need. On a diffent note, I also am looking for the brackets that hold the lap robe rope and the two tassels in the backseat. I got a good look at the originals in Phil Kennedy's 32 Sedan when I visted him a few weeks ago. To my surprise, they appeared identical to
  9. You're absolutely correct Sweepspear, I'm talking about the wrong show. Old age does that. When Graveyard Carz actually talks about Mopar restoration and shows the work on the cars it's great, but the really fake arguments and set up situations waste so much time it's rather painful to watch. Thankfully, my DVR allows me to skip past all the garbage and focus on the cars.
  10. I guess I'm just getting tired of all the fake drama that passes as reality. If you read some of the comments over on the H.A.M.B. forum from local Dallas car enthusiasts you realize they don't own that shop, just rent it out for the show. And some of the prices they pay - and sell- the cars for are just insane. They don't really have to worry about "losing" money on the cars they sell since they get paid more than enough for just appearing on the show. The accident with their new Mustang was depressing, but all the comments about not having insurance or not reporting it because their rate
  11. How do you put the cars you own down on the footer of your profile (along the bottom of your post)? Lots of folks have it, but I can't find where on my profile page I put this information. Thanks. EDIT Hmmmm, I just posted this and it magically appeared in the post. I guess I found the answer.
  12. I agree with Phil, write this up in detail - and take some pictures if you can.
  13. According to Phil's copy of Dykes, you take the main shaft out through the rear, not the front of the unit. This may be your problem as you said you were trying to take it out through the front. He's right, you will have the Freewheeling unit to deal with first and Dyke's doesn't address that.
  14. Are you sure there are no snap rings holding the shaft or bearings in place? You certainly don't want to be pounding on a transmission with a sledge, wood block or not. I always find that when something doesn't come apart it's something I've forgotten to remove. Check everything and then think it through - what's holding it on? But then, that's what you're asking, so i guess I wan't much help.
  15. I'd like to see these parts go to someone who needs them. They go on Ebay next week, so make me an offer if you see something you like.
  16. Thanks keiser3. Phil, the former owner, didn't find any shims when he took it apart so the situation is similar to yours. I'll compare the total thickness of the bearing package like Terry suggested and see how the old and the new match up and take it from there. RT
  17. I just read the instruction book and looked at the cutaway drawing. It says the the shims to adjust the end play of the axle are located "between the cup of the inner axle shaft bearing and the shoulder in the end of the axle housing. So, Terry, you're saying to measure the entire bearing assembly length, then compare it to the depth of the opening in the end of the axle from the outer flange to the step where the inner race seats. Then add shims to allow for end play of .0025 to .005. That makes sense as long as I can get that fine a measurement of the depth. An easier solution than tryi
  18. I recently bought a 32 Dodge DL. The rear axles had been removed in 1980 and never replaced due to the lack of the proper inner seals. Everything was taken out: the axles, inner and outer seals, inner and outer races. The tapered roller bearings were left on the axle. The bearings will have to be replaced and I now have the correct inner seals. To get the car ready for transport we temporarily put things back together, but didn't put in the inner seals, as I knew I would have to replace in inner bearing race with a new one. I need some help on the correct proceedure to get things back apa
  19. Looking for a set of kingpins for my 1932 Dodge DL. Apparently DD,DC,DH,DG,DL will all fit. Help me get her back on the road for the national meet in Michigan next year.
  20. Yeah, my 29 Plymouth had straight bore cylinders. Maybe I caught a break.
  21. Are the 32 DL wheel cylinders stepped or straight bore? I'm going to have White Post Restorations resleeve mine and the cost is much higher for the stepped cylinders - which, of course, must mean mine are stepped. Haven't had the car shipped yet, so I can't look for myself. Just trying to ge a handle on what this restoration is going to cost (gasp!).
  22. I have a rebuilt Dodge carb for a 241 Hemi. it's been sitting for a while but looks to be in good shape. $50.00 plus shipping. Contact Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  23. I have some 49 -52 Dodge parts for sale. Full set of fenders for a 1950 dodge Wayfarer Sedan. Fronts are very good with a few pinholes and one minor dent. Rears have rust in the front for the wheelwell. FREE. Pick them up in Central Illinois. Forget the color - they were originally black. 1950 Dodge Wayfarer Sedan trunk lid. Excellent condition. A little surface rust only. $30.00. I'll ship it, but it won't be cheap. Better for pickup. Two nice Wayfarer fender badges. Nice shape with all prongs on back. Need replating for a show car. $50.00 plus shipping. Horn ring. NOS with original box.
  24. I have some 49 -52 Dodge parts for sale. Full set of fenders for a 1950 dodge Wayfarer Sedan. Fronts are very good with a few pinholes and one minor dent. Rears have rust in the front for the wheelwell. FREE. Pick them up in Central Illinois. Forget the color - they were originally black. 1950 Dodge Wayfarer Sedan trunk lid. Excellent condition. A little surface rust only. $30.00. I'll ship it, but it won't be cheap. Better for pickup. Two nice Wayfarer fender badges. Nice shape with all prongs on back. Need replating for a show car. $50.00 plus shipping. Horn ring. NOS with original box.
  25. I just sold my 48 P-15 and have some nice parts I collected over the years for sale. The first is a NOS Tailight housing in the original box. For a sedan - does not fit the coupe. This has to be the nicest piece I have ever seen. The original chrome is perfect. It's so good I almost hate to see it used! The pictures tell the story. Asking $225.00 plus shipping. Two NOS Genuine MoPar upper control arm kits. From the factory, not aftermarket. Complete and in the original boxes. $90.00 for the pair plus shipping. Four interior handles - three door and one window, Excellent chrome and plastic.
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