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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Not much progress for the last few weeks. I've been involved in the tedious process of stripping the seats down to the springs, cleaning off the rust - mostly surface, and not too bad - and painting everything. I also got the rust off the front seat frame and got that painted. Yesterday I made another 2 and a half hour jaunt to central Missouri to help Ed with the body on the DL. When I arrived he had the other front fender nearly finished and it's looking good. We removed the last bolts holding the body to the frame. It's an interesting mounting method, with two large bolts up front on each side bolted through a cast mount just in front of the front door. Another large bolt is attached to a pressed steel flange on the firewall. This bolt also passes through the front fender and into the frame. At the rear, four bolts pass through the rear body pan, the stamped tray that covers the gas tank and into the frame via captured nuts. Earlier, we had removed the trim strips that use captured bolts that hold the lower sides of the body and the running board splash shields to the side of the frame. A bit of rocking and the body came loose in a shower of rust dust and disintigrating body webbing. We used Ed's lift to get the body up in the air. It's surprisingly light - we could easily lift the rear to get a 4X4 under it. Once it was up on the lift we got a good look at the rust and corrosion. It wasn't quite as bad as we expected. Looks like we will only have to replace some short sections rather than the entire lower area. The worst section was on the passenger side under the front door where we found - guess what? - a mouse nest. So, our original theory finally proved correct and after waffling on the cause of the rust out, mouse urine now presents itself as the leading factor, followed by many years of upstate new York winters. With the body off, we got a good look at the frame. Lots of surface rust, but the frame itself is very solid with no rustouts or other visible problems. Check out the size of that X-frame. No wonder Dodge figured there was no need for a center body brace. There was a ton of grease everywhere - some of which probably held the rust at bay - so we loaded the frame onto Ed's trailer and headed to the local carwash where I dropped 12 bucks in quarters trying to get everything clean. Some of the grease had apparently fossilized over the 81 year life of the car and refused to budge. I would say we removed about 70 percent of the crud. At the finish, the carwash looked like a grease storm had rolled in, with golf ball sized globs of grease all over the walls and ceiling. I'm sure the owner of the car wash went into cardiac arrest when he saw the carnage. A little less grease after the wash down. My DL has the same type of shackles as my old 29 Plymouth. They are a real pain to find. I will probably have to machine them (new pins, fill weld the cups and re-machine.) No fun at all.
  2. You learn something everyday. They apparently fixed that on my 32 as it suffered many winters in upstate NY.
  3. Lots of work, but it's a no reserve auction so, at least, you know what they want for it. I have never seen the vents rust out of a car like that. You have to wonder if the front cowl was sitting under a waterfall to ge that kind of damage.
  4. I got this reply from Dupont on primer application: Hello, The epoxy primer will have better adhesion over an abraded surface which includes sandblasting. Sandblasting can lead to a coarser profile which can telegraph up through the primer. Using 80 grit will help level the coarseness resulting in a smoother appearance. The important thing is to get primer on the bare metal within a few hours to avoid corrosion. Thank you for your interest in Axalta Coating Systems Todd Brenner Technical & Color Specialist So, it looks like blasted or sanded metal is fine, with the sanded giving a smoother surface to the primer.
  5. Thanks everyone. I guess I'll just run a DA with 80 grit over the blasted metal to be safe and then shoot the epoxy. I know I could probably get away with spraying right on the blasted metal, but paranoia sets in when it comes to me and paint adhesion.
  6. I'm getting conflicting messages on using epoxy primer on a sandblasted fender (1932 Dodge DL). I want to seal the fender as it's going to be awhile before everything is painted. I'm using Nason Ful-Poxy. My local paint shop insists I need to sand the already sandblasted fender with 80 grit to scratch it and get a good tooth for the primer. They say shooting epoxy directly onto sandblasted metal is a no-no and the primer will peel right off the surface once it dries. Several paint/bodyshop forums say just the opposite - that sandblasted metal is an ideal surface for epoxy application. Anyone out there with real world experience that can offer some advice? I have a nice sandblaster setup and the fender is blasted and ready to go. The thought of having to sand the entire fender at this point is a bit discouraging.
  7. The enter button problem seems to be related to Explorer. As soon as I went to Mozilla Firefox the problem stopped.
  8. It's been a dismal week in Southern Illinois. it just keeps raining - day after day. I was planning to give my finished fender a quick sandblasting to even things out and then lay on a coat of epoxy primer, but the rain and humidity make it impossible to do either. Plus the constant rain is just plain depressing - and the forcast is for more of it, all week through the holiday. I find myself sitting in the workshop staring at things that need to be done and then doing absolutely nothing. I did manage to get all my removed parts sorted, labeled and up on shelves. I went through everything, took inventory and was pleased to discover I have most every part I need with the exception of one interior door handle. I'm off to Ed's sometime in the next week to pick up more fenders and help get the body off the frame. Everything seems to have slowed to a near halt, but I'm moving along no mattter how slowly.
  9. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>We won't know the true extent of the body damage until we get the paint off. The lower portion below the door sills definitely has to be replaced. The wheel weels a a little crusty, but I'm hoping they are okay. From what I can see from inside the body, the cowl may be okay. The upper body, rear section and doors look very good. An interesting thing about the body construction of the 32 is that it precedes hot rod practice - the body is actually channeled over the frame. The channel then bolts to the SIDE of the frame via a covering strip that also holds on the running board splash shield and the back of the front fenders.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> The car is about as stripped down as i can get it, and the body comes off next for repairs. Although things get a bit discouraging at times, my old Dodge will return to her former glory. I just hope my finances allow for it to be done in time for the 100 anniversary next year.
  10. In this case the fender braces were definitely welded on. No room for rivets where the top of the brace meets the fender and the original factory spot welds could still bee seen where the brace was attached around the headlight mounting holes. I knew the collision damage was going to be a job, but I didn't see all the rust issues and small dents coming. The fenders looked pretty good from the damage back (70 percent of the fender) until the paint came off. Then the true condition of the metal became apparent. I was driving the car forty-five years ago and it was full of bondo and fiberglass then - and it looked smooth and shiny to all outward appearances. I don't mind a very light coat of filler to cover minor imperfections, but these fenders vibrate - they are nothing but big wings hanging out there - and too much filler is inviting cracks down the line. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  11. A long 16 hour day at Ed’s shop on Friday. Reality is beginning to set in on this restoration. It took as long as the estimate to do all four fenders to get the driver’s side front fender finished. Needless to say, my original budget is shot all to heck. After working out the major damage on the front fenders, Ed removed them for the finish work. He discovered that the fenders are not riveted on as we previously suspected and that what appeared to be rivet heads were domes stamped into the fenders to clear rivets in the frame. Here you can see them from the underside of the cleaned fender. Ed then sandblasted all four fenders. This is when the seriousness of the situation became evident. I had originally thought the body work would have consisted of repair on the two pushed in front fenders, the area around the taillight on the rear fender and the damage from the ice to the hood, area above the windshield and the hood. But as it often happens, once I got the clothes off her, she turned out not to be the virgin I had expected. It turns out that both Phil, the previous owner, and I were unaware that we were driving around a rolling pile of bondo. All four fenders are a mess! The driver’s side front, which sustained the most original damage, was rippled, dented and twisted over at least 80 percent of the sheet metal. Ed worked it for the entire day – and even now I will probably have to do more light hammer and dolly work after I get a coat of epoxy on and do a 80 grit sanding to find the high spots. Several small patches had to be fabricated and welded onto areas along the edge of the fender where collision damage had torn the metal beyond repair. The work was compounded by the fact that channels for the wire former had to be added and the metal bent around the wire after welding the patches in. The size of the stamped edge trim also slowly became wider around the curve of the fender, making accurate duplication very difficult. Ed finished off the fender with planisher and a metal finishing disk that flattened the high spots. Once that was finished, he had to replace the fender brace in exactly the right position to line up with the mounts on the frame and weld it in. The fender came out pretty good, especially when you look at before pictures, but it still needs a lot more finishing work on my part. The rest of the fenders will need a lot more work than we thought. Rust holes everywhere. I had assumed the passenger side rear fender would need no work. Wrong! Lots of metal will have to be replaced along the mounting surface. More damage along the outside bead that will require complicated patches and more working around the wire bead. A long road lies ahead.
  12. As you can probably tell from my lack of posting, not much has happened on the restoration over the last few days. I was involved in the 48 Hour Film Project over the weekend where teams make a complete 4 to 7 minute dramatic film in 48 hours. I got three hours sleep over the 48 hours, so I wasn't really able to concentrate my attentions on the Dodge. I was planning to visit Ed tomorrow, but work got in the way and now it's a Friday visit. The good news- talking to Ed on the phone and he has both front fenders off the frame and nearly finished. On Friday he promises all four fenders done, cleaned of all paint and undercoating and ready for the painter. Another curve came up as he informed me that what we thought were rivets holding the fenders to the frame (discussed in one of the earlier threads) were actually just bumps on the fender to clear rivets UNDER the fenders on the frame. The fenders themselves came off with just a few bolts. The deeper you dig, the more you find out. I'll have plenty of pictures after my visit Friday.
  13. Check post #129. I have a close-up photo of one of the oiling holes circled in red.
  14. Well, if it's only opinions, I always prefer an original car. I don't want to get into the original vs. hot rod thing, and the 34 is supposedly finished so it's too late to save it. If you want to cruise at highway speeds with AC and disk brakes, I guess that's the way to go. This begs the question, however - how good was the work done on this car? Go over to the H.A.M.B site and read all the horror stories of supposedly "finished" cars turning out to be a pile of poorly engineered junk. A hot rod is only as good as it's builder, and buying a finished one is taking a major leap of faith at that price. An original car brings its own set of problems - questionable highway performance in both engine and brakes and probably lots of tinkering to get things right. It all comes down to what YOU want. I'll take the original car every time, but that's just me.
  15. According to their website and in talking to their people, they specalize in antique and special interest auto pumps. The person on the phone seemed unfazed by my pump. He said they had several on the shelf they could rebuild and exchange, but I preferred to have my original (maybe) pump rebuilt and that was no problem. Like I said, I'll show you the results when it gets back.
  16. Thanks, Phil, I'll check it out. I like the caps, also.
  17. I'm going to send my water pump to: Flying Dutchman Pump Rebuilders 200 Davis Creek Road Selma, OR 97538 They quoted me $95 for a total rebuild with a 24 month warrenty. They also use a modern seal rather than the style old packing, although you can't tell from looking at the pump. I'll show you how it comes out when I get it back - supposedly a week or less turn-around.
  18. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>And notice the entire dash is wood-grained in the brochure illustration instead of the correct wood-grained top and black bottom.
  19. That's not to say that the gold has yellowed and become more gold over the years, but both Phil and my car have the same shade of gold instruments. But then, we both have the same shade of "tan" upholstery - that used to be brown.
  20. I'm not sure. You'll have to contact him - he's a real nice guy.
  21. I'm assuming it is a wrench that has very thin sides to be able to slip into the narrow opening and still turn. I may have to grind something down to fit.
  22. I'm going with: AER 16574 S. Baver Road Grand Ledge, MI 48837 I talked to owner Jason Smith, who does all the work himself. He completely rebuilds the electrics, powdercoats the unit in the correct semi-gloss black finish, replates anything that was originally plated, and installs new Delco labels - the metal ovals, not sure of the correct terminology - with correct stamped numbers. He charges $350 per unit. He told me that about the only thing remaining from the original unit are the exterior metal pieces. He specializes in rare and antique units. I'm not sure if the end pieces are pot metal or not. They were just too greasy for me to bother with when I got home. Jason said my parts are very common for the period.
  23. If I clean up the threads I can pretty well finger tighten them to where they'll just need a half turn or so more to finish the job. I always hate to modify things - it seems to come back and haunt me in ways I never saw coming.
  24. I have a few questions about my water pump for all the experts out there. it seems like a very simple unit. I'd like to rebuild it, if possible. I have some pretty severe movement in the shaft fore and aft. You can see the extent of the movement in these side-by-side shots. Since the fan mount and the belt pully are both pinned to the shaft and can't move along the shaft, the only thing that would cause this movement is the impeller being too far toward the rear of the shaft. Or am I mistaken about this? I looks like it's on about right and pushing it further onto the shaft would leave the shaft sticking out from the impeller. So, what's the fix? How tough is the impeller? I don't want to damage it trying something I shouldn't. Also, is this hole for lubrication, or does some sort of grease or oiling fitting go there? And finally, it's still pretty greasy, but I wasn't able to move this nut, which I assume is the packing nut. It's tough to get a wrench in there. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any help.
  25. I spent yesterday at Ed's shop working on the DL. I got a lot done, but none of it is very visual. Since the body is coming off the frame I realized it was time to disconnect everything that would prvent lift-off. There turned out to be a lot of things attached to the body and frame. First I tackled the wiring. After getting a good look at it, I'm amazed this car didn't turn into a rolling fireball at some point in its life. Most of the original wiring still existed in place, but little of it was being used. Over the years, all of the wiring to the lights and ignition had been replaced with modern plastic wire in a very shoddy manner. Lots of twisted splices (no solder) with plastic electrician's tape. Wires taped to everything - struts, cables, old wires. It was a nightmare. With all the grease in the engine compartment it's a wonder an electrical fire didn't toast the old girl. The wiring was obviously changed when the Clum Switch on the end of the steering box failed. I hope I can restore it to working order. But the result was a jury-rigged mess that I finally just cut away to get down to the orginal wire harness. Luckily, former owners had left it in place and I could get good photos and make up some diagrams that will help me get the replacement harness back in it's original position and configuration. One thing that suprised me was the original harness was made up with fiber conduit rather than the expected wrapping in cloth tape. If you can see through the grease, you can see the conduit. This is available, so the job of recreating the harness should be easy. Once I removed all of the harness attachment points in the engine compartment - boy are there a lot of clips on the frame and firewall! - I tackled the dash area. It seemed the easiest way to approach this was to get the instrument pod loose to make access a bit simpler. Well, I can tell you getting the pod out is no easy job. I took out the heater to get more access and it's staying out - more room for Kathy and we're not driving in the winter, anyway. I got the three bolts along the bottom of the pod off, but something was still holding it in. I felt around the edge of the pod, but couldn't find any other bolts or nuts holding it in place. I finally got a mirror and tried to take a look at what was going on in the narrow area above the pod - this was no fun lying on my back (on a piece of plywood - no floor) and trying to get enough light up there to see what the problem was. I discovered that the three cables (throttle, choke and freewheeling) attached to three tabs that extended up from the back of the pod. Now I had to get those nuts holding the cable fittings in place loose. I would really like to know how the heck they did it at the factory. There is no room up there! Any wrench I could get to the nut would only turn it about a quarter of a turn. Ed helped out with a set of off-set wrenches that we finally used, but even then we could only turn the nut a half turn before we had to change the wrench out for one with a different angle off-set. After a half an hour getting the first two off - Ed doing most of the work - I reached around and found the last cable nut was finger tight and spun it off by hand! Now the instrument pod could be lifted out of the back of the dash - not the front. Taking the wires off was a simple job at that point. I think the 32 dash is one of the best looking units I've ever seen. You can see the three tabs that were clamped between the inner dash and the cable nuts. I have a temp gauge, but it has an incorrect black face. If anyone has a temp gauge (non working is fine), let me know. I took good photos of Phil Kennedy's gauge when I was at his place, so I can always have a printer make me up a new gauge face that should come close to matching. I now had everything running between the frame and the body cleared away - wiring, cables. Ah, one more thing - the sidemount braces. They run from the fenders into the side of the cowl. (See the post above). So they came out and it's clear sailing when we lift the body. Finally, I removed the starter and the generator. They'll be heading to Michigan for a full cosmetic and electrical restoration. Pictures when they get back in about three months. All this took the better part of 10 hours. I was bushed, but managed to get the water pump off before I left. Questions about that in the next post.