edhd58

It may be possible they have a poor water pump impeller design. I found, while locating a new one for mine, Ford had a design early on (1942) in the 6 cylinder that liked to cavitate, later designs changed the impeller design for beter water flow.

I think looking inside is one thing, but to try to open a closed car door is like trespassing. I was always taught as a kid, if it's not yours dont touch it untill you ask permission. I'm sure I'll be upset too, wen mine is finally done, if I see someone climbing in and poking around inside my car if I haven't okayed it first.

I built a 32x40 9ft to the bottom of the trusses and wish I had gone taller. Over all the size works fine, but my stuff strung out gets me in trouble sometimes. Always go bigger and plan on 6ft either side of what you want in there, just for moving around and especially if youre gonna be working on it. It's just my 2 cents worth, only you know what you can afford, or have the room for though.

Won't go to Auto Zone anymore, kids are behind the counter and if they can't look it up in the computer you aint getting it. There is a Carquest with the guys that grew up on books and looking it up the hard way, cross references etc. Went to AutoZone and needed a diode trio for a Delco alternator, it's on a farm tractor -- they couldn't help me, Car Quest guys walked to the shelf no computer no books etc. They get almost all my business, unless they arent open when I can get there, then it's Adavnce Auto I go to.

I had a great day today, went to the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville.Ky and found a NOS radiator for my car for $150. I think that is a great day.

I agree Bleach, I want it to be right, but it seems there are many variations of right. The more I spend on something the fewer imperfections I overlook. And it does seem to be going the route of " Otherwise I might as well paint it myself". I went to a local car show this wekend, (Elizabethtown,KY) and saw many a car there with paint jobs I know I can do. It brought me back to my original train of thought, I want to enjoy showing it in local events, nothing fancy and never gonna worry about points or whatever. If I spend tens of thousands of dollars on this, will I enjoy showing it or be soooo afraid someone might dmamge it by getting to close that I wind up spending more time worrying than enjoying. The wife told me to just plan on when the time comes to get what I need to do it as right as I can (she's good to me that way, lol). The people that have seen what I have done so far have said I am taking the right steps to make it a good looking car, so maybe I can do a better job than I give myself credit for. We'll see soon enough.

ericmac, I fully understand the body shops reasoning and have no argument with them. I am not willing to spend, mostly because I can't afford to, what they need for their paint/body work. What happens is I tell them over the phone "it is not a show car, and I dont want a show car paint job". I send them pictures, and they still want to come look at it. When they see it they price it as a concours show car. I fully and completely , rendunduncy I know, understand why they have to price it that way, but why not tell me before they waste their time and mine coming out to look at it. Oh well, no more pro body shops are gonna be looking at it anyway, I have decided to do it myself. I've worked for a cabinet shop for years and can spray finish just fine. Even though this is different, it's still technique and consistency. I can practice and learn that on this.

Thanks for the info, I have a local auto paint/body supplier in teh area. They have been answering questions for me along the way too. The my idea of good and the body mans idea being two different things is why I want a real body/paint guy to do the work. that difference in ideas is why some of them wont do anything less than show quality -- no room for opinion difference that way they say. I have another guy coming to look at it simetime next week. a neighbor has recommended him, they have a vehicle they are having him paint. We'll just have to wait and see what happens.

I hadn't thought about MAACO but it is worth looking at. Worst they can do is price me out of there.

Now i'm no good at body parts ID'ing but this thread has been so much fun to follow. It's amazing how much knowledge there is just on this site alone. I am truly in awe of these guys id-ing some of these parts with no more than a couple pictures. You guys are truly awesome.

"If black or solid color piece painting probably work." I want it to be a midnight blue body, hood, deck lid and doors and the rest to be a dark charcoal grey. I plan on attending some local shows, only to be proud of what it is and have some fun, not to win any points or money. What I don't want to do is mess it up by letting some idiot that thinks they can spray do a terrible job or pay someone that can spray good too little to do a decent job, or pay more than the car is going to be worth just for the paint job. I maybe am asking to much, but I don't think I am, yet.

I am going to do a true auto paint job in either acrylic enamel or BC/CC. It definately won't be a rattle can or Rustoleum brush job. I may end up doing it myself but I would prefer a real Body/Paint person do it.

Okay, I maybe opening a can of worms, but I going to open it anyway. I have had several people come look at my car to paint it, and if from a real body shop they say they;ll only do top quality work, not any weekend driver quality stuff nad teh price starts around 10K$. I am looking for someone in the Guston,KY area which is near Fort Knox. Any one have any one they know and will recommend??

The real reason is simply that I don't have $10k to invest in just a paint job. I do agree I'd be afraid to get it out of the garage with a $10k paint job. I feel pretty certain I'll be able to get a good paint job for less than that, it may not be concours show worthy, and that's okay by me.

I know i said I wasn't posting again until I had some good pics, but I have news to report. Had a guy come look at it to give me a guesstimation on paint, and a minor amount of body work. His best answer was $10k would be a start. When I told him I wasn't going to be spending that much on just a paint job and minor body work, he informed me they only do show quality work is why the high guesstimate. The last discussion we had was that after I do all the body work and primer work he'll come back and do another closer guesstimate. Also got a quote on the motor today, $2800, thats a complete engine overhaul from top to bottom, it is going to be higher because that was if he didnt pull all the head bolts out and machine the deck. I've decided to do that too, it just isn't worth risking all that work and money for a few dollars more. It's going to be another month or so on the engine, but that's life.

Yep, this engine debuted in 41 and lasted until either 46 or 47 as a G series engine. After that they were modified and called an H series engine. 90 hp, same as the V-8, but I understand the 6 had more low end torque while 8 was more powerful further up in the rpm's.

I don't have ay links to share but two museums are close to me. One is owned by a car dealer in Elizabethtown,KY. It is in Elizabethtown, Ky on Dixie Hwy and has probably 30 or so cars there. A nice little gathering of cars. he has more at another site and rotates them periodicaly. The other that is close is in Bowling Green,KY. Well, it's kind of in Bowling Green and kind of under Bowling Green now. It's the Corvette museum, what there is left of it now that there is a sink hole that swallowed several of the Vettes. http://www.swopemuseum.com/ - as you can see i found a link to the museum

http://www.metalrescue.com/consumer.aspx That is a link to a website that sells an immersion type metal restorer. My question is, has anyone here ever tried this for themselves and does it do what it says it will? I have a lot of parts from my 42 Ford I can use this product on if it does what it says it will. I've watched several demos on Youtube as well, I just want to hear from someone here that has actually used it.

Wow time flies when you're grinding away rust. I spent 3 hours tonight with a right angle grinder and a wire wheel hitting all the contours of the door jambs, fire wall and window wells and running board wells etc. I think I am finally done with the grinder work on the body, I have to re-check the door edges and all the window trim rings. Went and got the disposable cup system for my spray gun, that'll make it much quicker clean-up. With the weather gonna be raining the next 4 days I won't be spraying any thing but I can be geting ready to late next week. I may catch some heat for this but from the people at Eastwood I bought their rust convertor and rust encapsulator. I'll be using this on the inside of the body and in the wheel wells. Inside the car I plan on using it everywhere it won't be seen. It's going under carpet, behind door panels, under the dash etc etc etc . It's going under the hood too, like on the frame rails and basically all the chassis parts from front to back. the rust encapsulator is an eppxy top coat so my thinking is that it will serve as a good protector of that part of the car, especially no more than it will be out in bad weather. I think the next update will be when I have picture worthy progress. i didn't think anyone would be interested in seeing more pictures of a sanded car.

According to Eastwood the rust convertor converts the rusted metal back to useable steel. The rust encapsulator has an epoxy element to it that seals the treated metal away from oxygen. I have used other rust convertors with good results by top coating them with epoxy paints, so I am going to give this a try since it will be inside the car away from the elements. Plus, you can't always cut away all the "rusty" metal, and griding it all away can leave you with very thin metal.

A 1959 Plymouth Belvedere 2 door with the fake continental tire on the trunk lid. Slant 6 -push button trans. Red / Red

I am redoing a '42 Ford. It has rust, surface rust, in many places that are nearly impossible to get to. I am going to use Eastwood's rust convertor topped by their rust encapslator. I think you would best be served by dropping the fuel tank and going this route. Just my 2 cents.

Well, I guess any progress is progress. I spent nearly 8 hours today taking the doors off and sanding them. That orange color is the result of a vinegar bath, which I was told will stop rust cheaper and as well as the exensive stuff. That info came from youtube from a body shop in Cali - Southwest Rods and Customs, lets hope its good info. Anyway, next week I hope to resand the doors again, clean that dust off, tack cloth them and put a coat of epoxy primer on them.

I have had a good deal of mechanical and electrical experience over the years, yet my 42 Ford is "teaching" me things along the way. Just have patience, take your time, and do enough research before you start each process so you fully understand what to expect/do as things show themselves. Make sure you have decent tools / eqipment too, not necessarily high dollar but decent quality.