edhd58

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Everything posted by edhd58

  1. Its done!!!!!! yeahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!! okay here the short version of a long story. had to machine the body of the housing to 0.005 lower than the top of the used gear. Had to machine the new inner gear to match the old inner gear. The gasket is 0.010 which then puts the other half of the body 0.005 above both gears. Now the pump shaft bushing and the inner gears are no where to be found. At least I can't find them anywhere, which is why the pump housing had to be machined. The tractor guy said this set up is the same as a 9N Ford tractor. So I called the local tractor parts supplier and ask if he has a rebuild pump kit for a 9N Ford tractor. He does. Turns out the pump shaft bushing is exactly what I need. The pump is now reconditioned and reinstalled. At idle I now have 50 pounds of pressure. NOw I am waiting for new gaskets to arrive so I can reassemble everything, repaint the engine and reinstall it.
  2. I have yet to find the generator to fan belt for my "42 Ford 226 G 6 cylinder. I am having to run a modern (narrow) belt to power the fan
  3. UPDATE -- took the pump assembly to a local tractor guy thats been around forever. He knows this style pump well from talking to others that know him. According to him this pump has to have close tolerances. The gap I have now 0.015 between the gears and the body is too much. I need to have the body machined so the gears/body has 0.005 clearance when asembled with a gasket. Took the assembly to a local machine shop and for $100 I should have it back tomorow, they are only machining the body I will have to do a little work on the gears and reassmemble. According to the tractor guy when this is done I will have all the oil flow the car will need.
  4. I do want to use the gasket, but also want minimum clearance between the gears and the pump body, everything spins easy with no gasket. . That is why if they can't machine the body to allow the use of a gasket and still keep the clearance to a minimum I may use sealer. I am also going to look in to Ford TO-30 oil pump gears. The old Ford tractors have this same setup, the gears may be interchangeable. Just one more avenue to explore.
  5. UPDATE -- I located and talked to a couple older vehicle mechanics close by. Both said there apears to be no reason for this thing to not be working. What I have tried is putting it back together without the gasket between the two parts, thegears still spin fine. I figure this closes up the gap at the end of the gears reducing area for oil to be getting out of the gears. I have 5W30 oil in it and one of the fellows I talked to says this is too thin for this old style pump. with teh wear on the housing I need to have at least 20w50. Tomorow I will take the pump to the machien shop that did teh work and see if I can get them to take the drive gear out so I can get a new bushing installed to eliminate the side play. I also want to see if they can machine the housing 0.003 so i can ptu the housing back together with the gasket in place, if not I'll use rtv sealer and do away with the gasket. Latest weird thing. I put it back together, no gasket no rtv sealer, tightened the bolts good, got some 30w oil in a pan and using a drill spun the pump at 1400 rom -- the speed of the drill. Darned if the silly thing didn't pick up oil and sqirt it all over me before I could stop the drill. Now I have to also say that I did use a cloth wrapped tube a clean some crud out of the oil pick up tube. but I drained the tube then spun it several times and it worked every time. Once I hit 1400 rpm which would be a fast idle it was pumping oil. I just wonder if it wasnt all due to thin oil?? I don't know.
  6. Here is the video showing I have to rotate the pump at a high speed before it will pick up even water. I would think water would be easier to pick up that oil.
  7. okay i need help. The thing was running fine until last Wednesday. That is when it stopped having oil pressure. All was good until that day. I checked the gauge, it's fine. I checked the oil passage the gauge was connected to, again - fine. Today I pulled the pump, which just happens to be part of the front main bearing cap, so I cant just go buy another. Here are my observations of the oil pump. The shaft the drive (big) gear is on has some slop (you can rock the shaft) where it goes through the housing. The drive gear can also be moved up and down a very slight amount. When I took the pump apart there is a gasket between the body parts, I know it's supposed to be there, but I can also put the pump back together without it and spin the pump easily. My questions are, 1) should the drive gear have ANY wobble to it where it comes through the housing. 2) there has to be a small amount of "end" play movement for it to rotate freely does't it? 3) with the gasket removed that tightens up the end gaps in the gears which should make it work even better shouldn't it? 4) There is a video I am trying to link to that shows I have to spin the pump very very fast before it will pick up liquid, at this time I am just using water. Anyone know how to remedy this problem??
  8. Bleach, yes the machine shop that did all the rebuild work assembled all moving parts. All I had to do when I got it home was install the head, cam gear, oil pan and other outside the engine parts. The oil pump was rebuilt and installed by the machine shop, and yes I'll be calling them. I dont think anything has been hurt, the engine never got over 100 to 110 degrees and except for the day it was idling while i was washing it, the engine hasnt ran more than 15 to 20 seconds at a time while i saw if what i was doing solved the oil pressure problem.
  9. Well, its official the oil pump came apart. As you can see from the picture I was able to get the front cover off the engine to expose the crank,camshaft and oil pump drive gears. The oil pump drive gear shaft should be snug in its housing, its not, it is loose and you can rattle the gear around a little. you can move the gear forward and backward and just in general rattle it all over the place. Next step is to find out if I have to pull the motor or if I can just raise the engine and drop the oil pan. I am tempted to just go ahead and pull the engine so I can have ample room to work with what ever I get in to repairing the oil pump.
  10. Last night all I had time to do was unhook the gauge tubing and start it to see if I had pressure to the fitting, I didn't. I did use compressed air in the oil jacket to make sure it wasn't plugged, it wasn't. With everything unhooked I started it to see if oil would squirt out of the engine, it didn't. I have a few things to check tonight. I'll keep the stats updated as I go along.
  11. Well CRAP. Took the car out to wash it to get ready to put on some more primer. I was letting it idle to come up to temp while washing it. At some point the oil pump quit. I dont know how long it idled with no pressure, but it never made any unusual noises. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Damn, I hate this. It hasnt ran 3 hours since the rebuild.
  12. I mix ammonia with my Simple Green. I do that because in the clock cleaning solutions the ammoniated cleaners will take most brass movements, remove anything on them and make them look new from the factory, regardless of their tarnish. 3 Gallons simple green 3 gallons water and 1 gallon ammonia will take just about everything I have tried all the way down to bare metal. Bob, that 26 quart cleaner is actually to big. I don't use it much any more, I have a smaller cleaner that gets used a lot.
  13. That motor sure looks good, but everything you've done has been outstanding as well. I've said it before, youre attention to detail is incredible.
  14. I am a clock repair person and a member of the NAWCC. I have a 26 quart ultrasonic cleaner and although it does great for what I use it for, it doesn't do squat for rust and hard debris. if its just oil and grease its works great. And yes I have used it on a carb or two with mixed results.
  15. I don't know how many of you have looked for and can't find a wiring harness for an old car but I just went through that. I don't know how many hours I spent looking at different website that had harnesses, just not the one I needed. I found a company C&Gfordparts.com. After searching the web site I found they did show the harness I need available. I emailed them and their response was, my harness is available. I ordered several harness parts from them and found out they sell them but they are shipped from the manufacturer. When the harnesses and parts arrived they are made by a company "Bauer Electronics", in Bend Oregon. It seems they've been doing this for several years. The harness has the original colors, material looks, and year correct connectors. Anyway, Just thought I would share what I found in case someone else is looking for a wiring harness too.
  16. Fellow i wish I had your talent. those panels loook excellent.
  17. We have the Saw Stop saws where I work, they have saved several people from bad accidents. They do work just like the hot-dog demo says it does. Gentlemen, best wishes for a speedy and uneventful recovery.
  18. I don't know why but when you look up the wire harnesses they will specify they are for the V-8. I spent a few hours online last night and think I may have found a supplier for the 6cyl wire harnesses, and they do specify they are for the 6 cylinder car.
  19. Okay guys, i know it has to be out there somewhere. I can't find it. Does anyone know where a wiring diagram, not schematic, for a '42 Ford with a 6 cylnder G series engine is? I am having trouble finding both the wirhing and the wiring diagram. I can find a '42 V8 diagram, and a '42 truck 6 cyl diagram. The truck 6 wiring is different than the passenger car. VanPelt doesn't have it, i've been there and looked, theirs is for the V8. Any wayyyyyy, any help will be greatly appreciated.
  20. As you should be able to see in the pics, I have only taken this out of the box. It has not been installed or altered from its new condition. What I know for sure is what the box says -- Wiring Harness --for 1946 Ford. why I have it I bought this a couple years ago for my 1942 Ford. I was new to the "restoring" thing and had been told if it fit what I have I better buy it. I WAS NOT TOLD THIS BY THE PERSON I GOT THIS FROM Anyway, when i saw a in new condition wiring harness for what should have been the same as my car I bought it. This weekend I started installing the new wiring, I had bought several more pieces as I found them, and found out this will not fit a 1942 Ford Deluxe with a 6 cylinder. Price is $60 shipped, in the USA only.
  21. 41-47 Ford Ignition Coil 12 volt with Script,Ford Licensed Product 1GA-12024-12 <!-- DO NOT change linkToTagId="rwid" as the catalog response has this ID set --> Just found this on E-Bay, two were available so I got them both. If they are this hard to find and no long made I want a spare. I can not believe just 10 minutes after I gave up hope of finding one I find two.
  22. I can not find a 12 volt ignition coil that is original appearing to my car, 1942 Ford --6 cylinder. My question is can i drop the voltage to the ignition coil to 6 volts so I can use an OEM coil and wiring? How do I do this if it is possible? I have checked many vendors, what I have found is I've been told Dennis Carpenter was the last to make these. I spoke to Dennis Carpenter and they say they don't carry these anymore. I know I can go after-market but I don't want to. That is a picture of the OEM style coil
  23. Okay, couple things to note here. I have some black pipe thread sealant. 2 days ago I pulled the nuts off the bolts that were seeping and very well sealed them. Since that day it has sat. Today it was started and let run about 45 minutes. I thought i had a 180 degree thermostat but it only comes up to 160, BUT no leaks. So i guess I will run it again tomorrow, check the torque on the nuts again and go from there.
  24. I know all this now. The issue is now do i tear it down and redo them all or just do teh bolts where they come through the head. several posts say the issue wil normally resolve itself in a very short time. if it does great, if not i will tear it down. Oh well live and learn. I'll be able to run it a good bit before i start putting the body back on so i'll have plenty of time to see if it solves itself.