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Everything posted by edhd58

  1. Okay, heres the deal. After looking around and pricing rear ends and what it will take to get them here I've decided to to just have one I have rebuilt. I figure this way I'll have an all new rear end, no aged parts.Thanks to everyone that responded with parts and complete units
  2. I kinda thought this was where that question would lead. I know I can fit newer brakes on this axle with little effort, but I wasn't sure how hard it would be to go tp a newer style rear end and get away from the banjo. while I have never revved it and dumped the clutch I have accelerated hard from a standing stop a few times. I just have never broken 2 rear end this way with all the abuse I gave several cars in my teens. I think this time I will take it to a shop and have all new bearing gears etc put in and get away from 70+ year old metal and wear.
  3. Okay, info needed -- car is a 42 Ford Fordor 6cylinder. I just ripped the second rear end out of it (pinion and ring gear are missing teeth now) . Are these rear ends inherently weak and takes little abuse to destroy them,, I was taking off from a dead stop a little hard but not what i thought should have destroyed the rear end?? Question is, how difficult is is to install a newer rear end that will be easier to locate amd find parts for? AND what rear end is easiest to install?
  4. I'm not familiar with those, how would i make it work in my situation?
  5. I need a rear end for a 42 Ford Fordor. complete in good condition please. 42 thru 48 will work,I dont know about other years
  6. First car was a $350 1966 Impala 4 door, only power steering and an AM radio. My Mom and Step-dad bought it for me. They got tired of me bringing home the 74 Cutlass on Sunday nights with no gas left in the tank. They paid the insurance and I did all the rest. It was 1976 and I worked at Arby's nearly 40 hours a week. I drove the crap outta that car. and sold it for $250 a couple years later with the rear end going out of it.
  7. Fixed the problem. Got a Jack under it and raised the floor of the trunk about 3/4 inch. All is good now. Fuel line that states its for the car isn't long enough so I put a filter between the tank and the pump. Car is now running on gas from an actual fuel tank.
  8. Got the new tank and installed it. problem I have with this is, there is no more than 1/4 inch clearance between the tank and the trunk floor. Does this seem about right or shouldnt there be more like 1/2 inch?? I can, i'm sure, use a block of wood and a floor jack to lift the trunk that much, but i am just curious as to am i making to big a deal. remember there are electrical wires going across the tank to the fuel gauge sending unit. I can use hand pressure and make the trunk floor hit the tank top. does anyone have a pictoral as to the way the brackets mount. it seems to me that if they were flipped there would be plenty room. I tried but then couldnt get to the bolts to start or tighten them. hopefully the pic shows, the tank is raised by the bracket, about 1/2 inch above the frame.
  9. Jack M, you are correct, the term is machining. My 6 cyl flattie had non adjustable lifters which the machine shop that did the rebuild said they could machine to accommodate the 0.040 that was machined off the block/head, we opted for the adjustable lifters instead.
  10. A lot of early engines, I am finding had no "adjustment". The valve adjustment was to grind the lifter, and once you went to far, you bought new ones and started over. I agree completely with "get the manual". I found on my Ford, several different specs depending on what site you were on. I got the Ford book from that era and am using it. And be willing to talk to whomever you need to, it so happened I needed to talk to a Ford tractor guru about my oil pump. The guys on this site have and will be of great help to you, they have been for me. There's a wealth of knowledge here. Majordan is right in all his steps, either way you go, you may have to open your motor back up, I did, it happens. That's why the book is great, you're ready for whatever comes your way.
  11. You may also look into your local schools. some of our local schools offer auto mechanics classes, everything from basic maintenance to engine/tranny rebuilds etc. Many years ago I also volunteered at a local service station, but those are few and far between now. Even if you get your own car, with little experience expect to be doing a ton of reading and research (so you don't mess up more than you fix up) get used to it. I have a 42 Ford Fordor I've been working on for three years, I'm a decent wrench man, but it's been a ton of internet scouring, reading blogs, Youtube watching and asking questions on here. These guys are awesome in their knowledge and willingness to help a newbie to the restoration addiction. Take your time at whatever you get, do not hurry it just wastes time, trust me i know.
  12. LOL, he said he was doing something dangerous and was worried about getting hurt.
  13. Another fact to take into consideration is the pump configuration. This pump is hung above the oil not submerged in the oil. It has to have a heavier film clinging to the gears after shut down to make a seal to make the pump provide suction. Earlier in this blog the oil pump failed causing me to pull the engine and have a local machine shop machine unavailable parts to rebuild the pump. What was discovered after many hours of searching and $$$ having parts machined was --- this pump has to run thicker oil because of its design. When the pump failed -- actually all it did was failed to pick up the oil because the 5w30 oil I was using then was to thin to provide a good seal after shutdown. Even after rebuild the pump would not pick up 5W30 or water or any liquid, I had the pump out of the engine trying to make it work. While researching what could possibly be wrong at that point is when I was directed to the local tractor guy, because as one old timer noted "Hell, looks like an old Ford tractor pump to me". Turns out it is an old Ford tractor pump, this design is used in the 9N and 2N Ford tractor. This is when I found the part I was unable to purchase for the "car" was in stock at the local Ford tractor shop - as a 9N tractor part. This old timer told me he had rebuilt many many of the pumps and told me to never run anything less than 20w oil in it because of its design -- thus the 20w50 in it now. After I get several more hours on the engine I will buy the 30W oil and run it. As you can tell from the recent posts oil pressure is no longer a problem. trying to make the pump, fresh from rebuild, pick up liquid. It has to be spun extremely fast to make it work because thin liquid does not provide any seal in the pump.
  14. Read his paper and did the Fahrenheit to Celsius conversion. According to his writing the oil recommended by FoMoCo for the car (30W) is incompatible in that its optimum operating range is 201 -222 degree Fahrenheit. The car will never be in that range unless its running hot. It was an interesting read though.
  15. Okay folks here are the latest re-paint pics. The fenders are just a hair lighter than the body so as soon as i get more paint (Monday) i will put a couple more coats one them. The body has 6 coats and the fenders have 3 ( i ran out of paint, because of the repaint from color sanding it with too coarse a grit paper. I will be getting all the other pieces ready for paint this week and hope to spray them next week. Hopefully by then I will have the fender welting and get the body all bolted back together permanently. I'm very happy with the way it turned out this time.
  16. do you still have, or did you sell the fenders ? Eddie
  17. NEVER tell yourself " I am only going to spend $$XX amount of dollars" unless its truly a driver and you don't care how little you do to it or what it looks like. The car in the avatar is a "driver" but I keep finding myself wanting it better than it looks to me at the moment. I have just scuffed the paint and am waiting for the humidity to drop so I can repaint what all my neighbors said was a fine paint job. I'll probably have about 10K in it when I am done, which really isn't bad considering it needed quite a bit from the ground up. As for parts, spend lots of time shopping online, you'll find many places selling the exact same things for many different prices. As for taking it apart, its very easy if you don't bag and tag everything, its assembly that sucks when you do it that way. I have probably 100 baggies labeled with what it has and where it came from. I agree 60FlatTop -- you have to consider what you have and what you'll do with it when its done too. I knew this was a long term commitment when I started, but the wife also has made it much easier because she is behind it all the way. Don;t get in a hurry, you'll just have to redo it later, smcdole, ask questions on here -- these guys have been a world of help to me, a wealth of knowledge is on this site alone. These are great people here and willing to help. I feel certain there are sites with people dedicated to yourmake of car as well. Seek them out too.
  18. I am getting ready to order new interior for the 42 Ford. Has anyone ordered and installed/had installed an interior from Mac's Auto Supply -- Cartouche'? I have the seat frames all cleaned but am not going to "re-sock" all of the springs. I am going to get spring twine and tie them all into place. I found a couple upholsterers that say they can weld the large rods that have broken, but have been told these springs aren't available, but a layer of foam under the batting will do wonders for the look and feel. Main question is -- has anyone used an interior from Cartouche' (Mac"s Auto Supply)
  19. Dang it. I have now talked to several upholsterers locally. They all say basically the same thing. Can not get the seat springs like these any more and all they can do is add foam on top of the burlap but under the batting and hope for the best. They all say $400 will get the new covers stretched with the foam. My next dilemma, I am not going to re-sock all the springs and the front seat cushion frame upper outer frame rail is broken in three places, i know a welder so I will see about having him weld the frame rails back together. I think I will hand tie all the springs, top and bottom, like in a couch or chair to keep them from walking, and use extra heavy burlap on top. The plan is to get a kit from Cartouche (Mac's Auto Parts) so all I have to do then is have them stretch the seat upholstery over the frames. Cartouche supposedly specializes in Vintage Ford interiors so everything should fit perfectly. $2700 will do all the interior except headliner and floor.
  20. My 42 Ford Fordor is about to get new seat covers. My question is -- I need to get the old "socks" off the seat springs. Is there a fast and best way to do this. Do I need to re-sock each spring? There is a "main" wire around the front of the front seat cushion frame that is very thick but the ends aren't connected to anything and I think they need to be attached somewhere. Ill see about getting pictures.
  21. Well fellows, I have bad news. I am not satisfied with the way the paint looks. A wind storm came up as I was painting and because it was a garage job, more dust than I care to put up with got into the paint. I have color sanded several times to try to make it look right, but I just am not willing to let it be. I do have to say, first paint job I ever have done, and when hand sanding it (first time ever) with paint on I used too coarse a grit paper, and used my hand as the backer-- BIG MISTAKE. I have now DA scuffed it all back down (except the roof) and will in the next day or so spray it again. This time only one door will be open, it will only be open enough to let a fan blow some of the fumes out. Also, i just can not come to like the grey fenders so it will all go blue. I am going to have to buy more paint, but that is little sacrifice compared to spraying it a color scheme I just do not like. I will post this in the Technical section also, but I need help with the seat springs, each spring has a burlap sock over it, do I need to redo EACH sock and recover EACH spring? Also -- what is the best and quickest way to get all of these old socks off each spring -- i know the best and quickest may not be the same method, but I do not need to be told to light then on fire, I know better than do it that way. Thanks for all your support
  22. Well............... i figured it out To make a long story short, you HAVE to have a good seal at the sediment bowl to body.The kit didn't come with one, it isn't FOR this pump, and I never even thought it would create so many problems. After I bet 30 removals and installs and the same number of dis-assembles and re-assembles I was at a total loss. I was now doing stuff just to see what would happen. Like I said before it worked fine in my hand, i now think that was because I was moving it faster than the cars cam does. It was making some sucking sounds but very small amounts when it is on the car. Anyway, I decided to hooked up the new fuel line and see if is would suck water. It did but too probably 5 minutes to pump out 6 oz. The sediment bowl top never showed any water seeping out either. SOOOO now I decide to make a gasket for the sediment bowl, again just to see what happens. As you can see in the video, it takes now maybe 5 seconds to pump out 6oz. Now for some reason I mistakenly ordered more than 1 diaphragm, and I removed part of the metal where the diaphragm spring sets. I now have to wait for the 2nd of these diaphragms to get here so I can put a non-modified one back in and "see" what happens. I think it will work and then I have to fine that bowl gasket.
  23. Well......... its installed but wont work. the diaphragm(made in China-I didn't know where it was made when I ordered it) looks like it is a simple piece of flat "rubber". When everything is installed the lever travels a good distance before pulling the diaphragm down. I can work it by hand but the motor will not work it. I installed the pump with just the diaphragm on the engine, there is a lot of travel up and down of the lever. When the rest of the body is installed the pump doesn't work. Here is my theory (with picture), the diaphragm is so stiff and sits far enough above the body, it isn't allowing the diaphragm enough free movement to raise up in the body enough to let the lever engage the lever actuator. The lever actuator in turn isn't getting pulled down enough to pump fuel. The actual size of everything is the same as what came out of the pump(the bad parts). I am going to look for top quality made in America parts to see if they have a less stiff diaphragm. I am also considering a V8 pump that looks identical from the outside to see if I can swap lever/actuator assembly. Yes I know I can go electric, that's what it has now but I'm a sucker for a challenge. plus I love the looks of "this is how it came from the factory", even if it isn't inside.
  24. Bleach, about the oil pressure. According to the local "tractor" guy that know a lot about this type oil pump, I am going to be running "probably a little higher than Henry had it when it was new" because my clearances are "probably" tighter than new. I have several hours on the motor now, its still around 40 at first start, then drops to about 30 to 35 when hot with 20W50 oil in it. The only way I can find straight 30W (Ford recommended), is by the quart and its about 5$ quart, I was told not to put anything less than 20W in it, . Revved it makes about 60 pounds of pressure. I think I am going to get a tach in the near future, just for kicks and giggles.