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Everything posted by edhd58

  1. here i the fuel pump kit, it was 19$ and come change. its seems to be a perfect match, the gasket is anyway. the lever seems to be the only part that will not work.
  2. Bleach, the solution to the oil pump was to have the inner gears machined to the same height, then have the body machined to a end gap of 5 to 8 thousand. All in all after that I feel like the 5w30 I had in it was too thin for the worn pump to pick up. anyway, 40 to 45 psi idling now at 190 degree water temp. I started color sanding it last night, it looked good until the sanding showed me just how uneven good looking paint is. I have a feeling I am going to be very happy after all the sanding is done and its all polished up.
  3. Harwood, not reinventing the wheel, updating to one newer spoke as the rest of the wheel has been modernized. Buick, its a 42 Ford Fordor with the original 6 G series engine which poses its own problems, changing anything is one of them, and this is the last of the challenges I will be facing as far as anything that connects to the motor Thank you Rusty, that was the answer I was looking for. I will look to people who do that sort of thing to have it changed to 12 v coils
  4. It hasn't arrived yet, I was also wrong, its 19.50 not 9$ , oops , boy am i glad i only missed it by 10 dollars. could have been much worse.
  5. Rusty, thanks for the response, Two things, how will I determine which coils will work correctly? and , Its making over 18 volts now at 2200 rpm. Will normal driving speed be more than 2200 rpm? I really do want to change the field coils, I just haven't found anyone that can tell me how to determine what is correct. Any help is greatly appeciated
  6. Well I've made progress. Today I painted the body, doors, hood and deck lid. All in all I'm happy with it. there is some dust in the paint, but that's my fault, I had two people look at it that knows paint, they say when I color sand it everything should be fine. If not I have more than enough paint to do another coat, making sure to not do what I did do this time, not tack cloth it before painting. Yes I had the tack cloth, even had it handy and made sure I had it before I masked everything, I just got ahead of myself and forgot to do it. It's actually a medium dark blue, which turns out to be a mid 50s Hudson color, Boatswain Blue.
  7. I know this has been covered before but after reading the posts I am still confused. My car has the 6V generator, 12 V battery and 12v regulator. This is because I have read a 6V generator will produce more than enough volts but not as many amps as a 12 volt generator, plus all i have one the car will be lights, so no heavy loads on the battery. The regulator is new, the wiring is new and properly connected, I have checked and made as sure as i can the grounds are good at all connections. The field coils are attached in series, one end goes to a generator brush, the other goes to ground. The generator commutator is clean and looks in very good condition. I have checked each and every section of the commutator and none of them are shorted. The generator wildly overcharges., near 20 volts at 2000 rpm. What else do I check and how do I check it. I have the top off the regulator. At idle the battery coil has its circuit open, just off idle that circuit closes and it starts overcharging and as I said before the voltage gas gone to nearly 20 volts.
  8. Well, I decided to take a stab at it and ordered the rebuild kit for a late 40s / early 50s fuel pump. The application chart says they are all the same. If it fits great, if not its only 9$ and well worth it to know for sure.
  9. from experience I speak. Find out what all you could possibly need. Then stat looking to make sure you can get all the pieces. My 42 Ford G series 6 cylinder has several parts that are not available. Had I known that before I took it to the machine shop I would have put in a V8 flathead. I can't get a fuel pump, every oil pan gasket I have gotten hasn't been an exact fit, and the oil pump internal gears aren't available. Just make sure before you spend the dollars to get some parts that you can get all the parts you need.
  10. The 226 G series Ford engine fuel pump is obsolete, can't be found except NOS which I fear will result in a quick death of old material. Can anyone tell me if the diaphragm is the same as newer V8 model pump that I can buy rebuild kits for?? I looked for H series 226 engine pump but can't find kits for them either.
  11. I had a local high school auto repair class rebuild a 62 Rambler flat head 6 a few years ago. I was warned by another person that had work done to check out the work very carefully before I started the motor. I did and found they had not done several things right, plus for an unknown reason the had taken the front shaft tube off the trans and dropped all the ball bearings in the bottom of the trans. I wound up taking the whole engine/trans apart to put everything right.
  12. Question 1- does anyone know the part number for 12v field coils that will be a direct replacement for the 6v coils in my '42 Ford - 226G engine generator? Question 2 - I am going to ask this on the Massey tractor site too but, does anyone know for sure whether the stater solenoid on the Massey TO-35 tractor is a ground to post or voltage to post solenoid. I ask because if it is a ground to post, it is a direct replacement for the '42 Ford ground to post 6v starter solenoid. Question 3 - I am painting the outside of the car a very dark blue, with the fenders a medium dark grey. The interior cloth is going to be a lighter grey. I am just asking for opinions, do you think the window trim should be body color or the grey color, and what about the dash too??Again, just asking for opinions, i already have my idea I just want to see if I am in the norm or way out there.
  13. Thanks Mark, I have been to other forums as well (specifically for auto painters etc) looking for comments about the two paint lines. Without asking questions, just browsing their discussions, I found many many times the same statement you made. The PPG Concept line was also stated to cover better than the others I was considering. Now if I could just get off these 12 hour days so I could get down to the paint store. Thanks again for taking the time to answer a newbies questions.
  14. Thanks for the responses. i plan on using PPG Concept DCC urethane. It's not cheap, just over $400 a gallon. The car wont be in the sun much, and garage kept, so I figure the paint will last as long as I'm around, lol.
  15. That is one sweet looking very meticulously assembled engine, as is everything you have done.
  16. I've asked this question elsewhere but I want to ask you straight up. I have been usiing PPG products on my car so far. Stripped it to metal, then epoxy primer, next 2K primer. I have it to the point of ready to spray. PPG paint is 400$ a gallon and BASF is 200$ a gal. is there any reason to use the more expensive paint? Will it make any difference changing brands? I'll be spraying acrylic Urethane, pure color no metallic or pearl etc..
  17. I am going to purchase the paint for my car next week. Here is my situation. So far all I have used is PPG products. Epoxy primer and 2K primer. The paint from the local PPG dealer is nearly $400 per gallon. There is another auto paint supplier that is about half the cost. The other guy sells BASF products. My question is---- is BASF a good product or should I just bite the bullet and stick with PPG. Anyone had any experience with BASF products??
  18. because I am ignorant. What motor is this? I have a 42 Ford Fordor with the 226G flat 6 and was wondering if yours was 8 or 6 cylinders.
  19. Speaking of resetting speedos, I recently set my new used speedo in my '42 Ford to the mileage the speedo I replaced had on it.
  20. I used to use a Ford F150 extra cab 2wd to pull a 16ft car hauler and a 40 hp tractor with front loader. Notice I say USED to use a Ford F150, trans went out after a dozen or so 100 mile trips. You cant beat the Power-strokes for power and endurance.
  21. I disagree. Well not completely. If the rod journals have been reconditioned,new bearings installed and the engine is being given a major overhaul, isn't the only real important factor that the rod caps be kept as they were when reconditioned? And shouldn't they have been marked so the halves would stay together, 1/1 -- 2/2 etc? What I am saying is, if the engine had a major overhaul and all the parts reconditioned the only thing not putting the rod marked 1 back in cylinder 1 will do is give us reason to ask why ???
  22. Thanks guys, I wasnt sure if it had to be a specific tool for a specific engine.
  23. This is going to sound like a stupid question. I have to pull the valves out of my flathead 6. Yes another mess with the rebuilt engine I am having to diagnose and repair. My question is about valve spring compressors. How do I know the one I buy will work for my engine. Are valve spring pretty much the same size in diameter? This is one I am looking at but want to be sure before I buy that it will work.
  24. I am going to believe in the thought that something got picked up in the ick-up tube. the new gaskets arrived yesterday, I have the engine all back together and running. Idle at 190 degrees is 45+ lbs pressure. If you shut it off and wait for the pressure to go to 0 and crank it the pressure starts climbing before it starts to run. Everything was cleaned really well before it got assembled the first time, and again this time. Oh well, one of those things I'll probably never know why what happened did happen.
  25. GLong, all those thoughts ran through me head too. Like I said earlier, nobody including myself could really see why it stopped pushing oil. I did push some sludge out of the pick-up tube but not enough I didn't think to stop oil from flowing. Hopefully the gaskets will be here tomorrow and I can out it all back together. I did make sure the screen is clean and extra thoroughly cleaned the pan. All I can do now is wait and hope, hope nothing goes wrong again.