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Everything posted by edhd58

  1. My 42 Ford has the same tires on it, all cracked and nasty looking. One tube went bad and when I took the tire off it had matching Allstate tube in it. The tires have like new tread, depth anyway, but are definately not road safe.
  2. You can see the attention to the little things you're putting in to this job. The results look as good as any pro shop from here.
  3. Went and got the engine from the machine shop to do the tear down to save time and money/. Got it home and got the pistons / rings out of it. It has one cylinder with broken rings, but luckily no real scoring in the cylinder walls. It does however have a couple chips, for lack of a better word, in a couple cylinders. I thought when I first took the head off that I may have done that, but upon closer inspection there are a couple places so far down in the cylinders I couldn't have done them if I had tried to. Got out the digital calipers and checked the cylinder bores, dead on 3.300 inches - std bore. Crank looks really good, I think just polished will do. Here's a funny thing I found though, every connecting rod is stamped on the rod and the cap with that cylinders number. It also has two different style pistons in it, in alternating cylinders. I would think Ford wouldn't do that from the factory, I wonder if the engine hasn't been worked on. I am attaching pictures of the pistons, if you look you'll see where there are relief slots up top how they are cut different. Plus, three of the pistons say Ford in Ford script, the other three have no writing on them. I am also attaching pictures of the dried sludge crap that is inside the valve spring area, geeeez what a lot of crap. Oh yeah, the pan is full of sludge too.
  4. I am trying to find something close to what was on my '42 Ford, looks like a tar coated cloth. It is a spacer between metal to metal pieces to stop squeaks. I doubt I'll find that, but I may have to settle for what you have too.
  5. <small>The tail-lights (upper illustration) are an easy ID on </small> <small>the majoriy of 1940 Cadillacs, including the V-16;</small> <small>an exception was the Series 72 cars (lower row) http://www.cadillacdatabase.org/Dbas_txt/Phocad40.htm </small>
  6. DJ, that's something I never heard of, OHV conversion for a flattie, hmmmmmmm. It's more than I'd want to do I think. I called the machine shop back, we talked about it and they said if I have the skills to reassemble it that will definitely save me time and money. I definitely do have the skills and the tools so one day next week I'll go get the engine and strip it to the block. I'll take them just the block, cam and valves in it still, and the crank with rods and pistons loose. they'll give it back to me that way but reconditioned in 1/2 the time and cost.
  7. Thanks Martin, all because I saw what an awesome job you're doing I decided I could do better too. I say that as a compliment. I was gonna just kinda make my dash look better. Then darn it, as I am out there taking parts off to get ready to sand them and put them in primer I just couldn't leave the dash alone. It's now out and on the floor of the garage in among the pile of "ready to sand" stuff. I know I'll be more satisfied doing it right anyway, I just had to kid you a little though.
  8. Thanks, i wondered how i was gonna shoot staples through the steel. Probably use the same process for the nail, they hold the wind-lace in place until the panels are put in place.
  9. Thanks Wayne, many people here have helped me with things I didn't know. I thought while I was waiting for the temp to warm a bit here I would see if maybe I could help someone. Eddie
  10. Okay, I'm taking all the doors apart and i'm finding nails and staples holding pices in place and they all look factory installed. The staples are everywhere actually, in the fenders holding the anti-squeak welting in place and in the doors holding the anti-rattler pieces in place. The nails are in the door lacing hilding it in place. Any idea as to how I am supposed to replicate this when I put the window anti-rattlers back in place? I imagine the anti-squeak for the fenders is now self-stick material. Here is a picture of the stapled window anti-rattle piece.
  11. WOW, you just don't run across family like that everywhere. Its a fantastic find, I hate to see ones like this overlooked for their potential. Theres a Rambler from the 50's close by, but I just haven't been able to talk the wife into letting me drag another one home till I get my current one driveable. Yours wil definately get attention, you just don't see that many of them. Good find, good job, and good luck with it.
  12. <big> http://www.cadillacdatabase.org/Dbas_txt/Starcar2.htmOwens, Jesse </big>[legendary U.S. sports figure]<small>1929 Cadillac convertible parade car </small> <small>African-American sports giant, Jesse Owens won four gold medals for the USA during the 1936 Olympics, held in Berlin, Germany, just before the outbreak of WW2. Adolf Hitler, irascible Chancellor of the Third Reich stormed out of the tribune of honor after Owens beat Germany's allegedly superior Aryan athletes. Back home, Jesse rode a Cadillac in this ceremonial ticker tape parade it took a little searching but I found this</small>
  13. Yes the lock does look like that. Thanks a bunch for the help, hopefully I won't have to destroy it getting it out. It was just as you described, and easy to find since the door seal was missing. After a little work the set screw came right out.
  14. I have browsed your photos. I am in awe of the job youre doing, that's some fantastic work. Makes me believe maybe I should do a little better on mine.
  15. I'm stumped. I'm trying to get the door locks out of the doors on my '42 Ford, and I can't figure it out. It looks like there is a peg in the lock assembly I can get to through a slot in the door, but I can't get the peg to come out. Maybe I doon't know what I'm doing. Hell I know I don't know what I'm doing. How does this thing come out??
  16. Dropped the engine off at the machine shop, it turned out to be a sunny day after all, and was told it will be a while before they start on it. They've been recommended by several people so I'll wait, it's not like I don't have plenty other things to do.
  17. http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=369989 Here is where I posted some more pics. Its kinda awesome to have someone besides myself interested in it.
  18. I'll call this a revival beacuse it's not going to be a restored to original car. I'm taking liberties, somewhat. I'm trying to go pretty much OEM parts, trying to buy NOS parts when I can. I just found the engine is going to have to be completely overhauled, so that's gonna put a little bump in the road to running/driving. The whole car had a medium coat of surface rust, making me slowly sand the entire car down to metal, the epoxy primer with 2K primer on top of that. This past weekend I had it outside and pressure washed the underhood area, and scraped what the pressure washer wouldn't take off. That took about 4 hours, but it will be worth it in the end. Heres some of the pics I have accumulated so far, and i'll take more and post as I get things done. The picture in the front yard is when I first got it home. The pic with the dog house off is the way it is at the moment. Waiting to take the engine to the machine shop next week (its supposed to rain here the next three days).
  19. Gotcha, i had never looked at all the parts of this site. Thank you for the info. it'll go there for sure.
  20. Do you think I should start a new thread to post the progress or just keep updating here? I've never done anything anyone but me was interested in so I"m new to it.
  21. WOW, i'm actually kinda shocked that anyone but me even remembered it existed. I had bought a heater for the garage and found that biggest isn't always better. I bought a torpedo heater that is way to large and fumes you out in a heart beat, I shoulda bought one half the size. Anyway, it's warmer now and i don't mind 40 degrees when i'm working. So far all the fenders, front end, hood and trunk lid are off, sanded to metal, epoxy primed then 2k primed. With the front end off, it's time to pull the motor, redo the clutch and replace the wiring and do a general clean-up of the under hood area and chassis (omg it's covered in 50+ year old hard clay).
  22. Got the pressure plate off and like i figured, the clutch disc is toast, old, glazed and cracked and about worn out. the pressure plate has been really hot with blueing and so has the flywheel and one of the pressure plate bolts was loose and in the bottom of the bell housing. Both the throwout bearing and pilot bearing are loose. But back to the original question, I guess green is ok cause its going back in green.
  23. This is what it looks like now, only it's partially disassembled. Its going back semi original. midnight blue body/hood/trunk lid and charcoal fenders and front end with grey interior. But drive line will original, 6cyl, 3spd, and original drum brakes. its a low budget weekend fun toy.
  24. Ok, it's been in there a long time, purrs like a kitten but smokes, I took it out because the clutch shudders like crazy, so I am going to install all the clutch stuff and maybe do a re-ring while it's out. I was just curious as whether it may be original or not.
  25. Here is what it is. Just out of the car. Think while its out i'll clean up the engine compartment and make it all nice and pretty, wiring and all.