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Everything posted by edhd58

  1. I used Loc-tite thread lock on the head bolts in the block. Should I just pull them all out and start all over??
  2. I have a newly rebuilt 42 Ford 226 G 6cyliner. It has about an hour run time on it when I have started noticing coolant seeping up around the 5 or so head bolts that are down the very center of the head. All are torqued (severala times over) to 70 ft/lbs. The end of the bolts in the head were Locktited, the end coming throught the head had nothing done to them. My question is should I pull the head and and bolts and redo it all with tread sealant, or pull the head and seal the threads and replace the head gasket too, or lastly just remove the head bolt nuts put thread sealant on them and retorque everything?? here is a video of the motor. http://youtu.be/B-RA7N7YXJo
  3. just a quik video of it fianlly running with no leaks. Valves sound noisy in video but arent bad in real life.
  4. Coyote, That beast is looking good. You have so much patience it is incredible. As for those foam plugs, thats a great idea, I would have never thought of those and yet I have a bunch in my junk drawer. Well, guess I am off to the garage to clean up 4-1/2 gallons of antfreeze.
  5. Oh yes, i definately count my blessings. Bleach, I didn't put them in, the machine shop that did the rebuild will. I am going to go back, clean the openign good, I read somwhere to use aviation Permatex, and reinstall it. I am also going to hit the others a time or two to flatten them out a little more too. Other than the flood, everything else went good.
  6. Well guys I just couldn't stand it anymore. I had to get it running because of how humid it is here lately, I didn't want to risk the cylinders drawing condensation and maybe flash rusting. I did oil them heavily, but I'm a worrier. Anyway, no water in it I fired it up yesterday, and it sounded excellent. I ran it several times about 30 seconds each time and let it cool about 10 minutes between times. That was yesterday, flash forward one day. All hell broke loose today. Got everything to fire it up and run it a while. Put in a set of mechanical gauges and had filled it up with antifreeze solution 50/50. I had no worries about what I had done leaking. I was just finishing the oil pressure line when I hear a dripping sound. Once I got out of the car I see green under the engine. As I get to the front of the car all hell broke loose, 4 gallons of antifreeze is pouring onto the garage floor. I don't know how many gallons this thing holds down to the bottoms of the freeze plug, with the radiator full to the bottom of the neck, but it's all over my floor. The rear freeze plug on the driver side fell out. I just don't have the heart to mess with it tonight, I'll tackle it tomorrow.
  7. Well guys, I just couldn;t stand it anymore. NO water in it, I am waiting on a thermostat, but I had to hear it run. I also did it so I can make sure it doesnt draw moisture in the cy
  8. Well, its been a while since I posted anything. Work has been slowly continuing as I've been working 55 to 60 hours a week. I did find out that the battery tray is engine specific. The V8 wont work for the 6 because of manifold interference. Any way....... I did get the brackets off the old battery tray and made my own, it's not gorgeous and beautiful, but I think it'll be just fine. The newest adventure is finding a fuel pump (original type) for the engine. The fuel pump HAS to be for the G series engine I have found out. My pump is old and all the rubber etc has dry rotted and cracked to pieces. There are many kits out there, but none of them have seem to have the cup that fits below the diaphragm and keeps fuel (or oil?) from running out the bottom of the pump. I am posting a picture of the battery tray, again it's not professional, but hey a battery is going to be covering most of it.
  9. I am just about ready to start the painting process on my car. Somewhere, on this site i think, is an app where you can add color to a picture of your car to see what different color schemes look like. Does anyone know where this app is?
  10. The stuff called cast blast is from another company, sorry
  11. Martin, I dont know how you feel about the "cast iron" look but I found what I think is high temp cast look spray at Eastwood. It's called cast blast, I am pretty sure its for things like exhaust manifolds. I will look into it more and if it is I am considering it for the manifolds on my car. Eddie
  12. I thought about that, but the new one cost $85 and I think thats a lot for a piece of sheet metal thats about 12x13 inches square. It's not gonna be a big deal to make one out of the sheet metal piece I get. I called it scrap but its a good new piece of metal, just a piece he cut off of something else. I'd rather use the money to but something else I can't make. The old brackets are fine, I even got a small sand blast cabinet to clean up all the smaller metal pieces, it's a lot quicker and better at getting into the corners than a wire brush. The brackets are in one of the pictures repalced on the chassis so I can tack weld the tray in place when its shaped. My friend will then finish weld it at his shop, its easier to take it to him than him bring his stuff to me.
  13. Okay guys I have a problem. Bob Drake and every other supplier of the battery tray for early Ford's say their battery tray is for 41 - 48 Ford cars. My tray is nothing like theirs, and I do not know why. Theirs won't come close to bolting up to my chassis. My option is to make my own battery tray, which I am in the process of doing. Lucky for me I have a welder friend that has scrap metal the right gauge to do this, and he will help me when it comes time to weld it all together. The shaping of the metal wont be to bad, just time consuming. What I keep trying to figure out is why my tray and theirs is so different, and what theirs really does fit. Below is a picture of where my tray bolts to the chassis On the picture below does anyone have any idea what was the thin sheet metal that was riveted to the from of the battery tray mount??
  14. Got the engine set back in this afternoon. Its just setting there but its back in the car. I'm still working on all the bolt on pieces, oil filter - wire loom etc. I am doing those and bolting them on as I get them finished. I won't post again until some major progress is accomplished but getting the motor back in was a big joy for me and I just had to show it.
  15. Here is my dilema, the motor mount has the color that was on it when I took the engine out. The water pump has the color Mac's Auto Parts sent me, and is supposed to be correct. I have no idea which is correct, so I am asking for help. Which color is correct for a '41 Ford engine?
  16. Are you the only one that has photos of these or are they somehwere else we can look and see them??
  17. I have a '42 Ford and early this year I asked for just a good driver quality job from a reputable body shop that does antique vehicles. I understand and agree with what he said, but can't afford it either. His response was, at least a year and $15,000 to start followed by "and we'll just have to wait and see what rears it's ugly head as we take it apart." I have taken it apart, it appeared very sound and mostly rust free while together. BUT several ugly things have "reared" their ugly heads as I disassemebled it. The final $$ cost will all depend on how much you decided to spend, which will determine the quality of the work done.
  18. I take it the primer is at the parts store too. Awesome, ty for the help. My engine is kinda together, I have to put new head studs in, and the externals of the flat head back on. Then like you, I'll redo the other parts and put them back in. I am waiting for the head studs and new clutch/pp-t/o bearing to come in so i can have it all new from the fan to the back drum. Thanks again for the insight, after coming this far, I want to make sure I do all I can do to make it as right as I can.
  19. "I believe the 1942 6 cyl was blue. " Yes ILIKECARS53, the correct color according to all the books is blue on the motor in '42. Mine was green when I pulled it, and just because it was that color to start with I am leaning towards re-painting it that same color, just because I can not because it's right.
  20. I have a queston for you. What paint are you using on your motor parts? My engine is back from the machine shop and I need to get it painted. I just havent decided to paint first or assmeble first. I do like the looks of your parts so I thoguht I'd ask you about your paint.
  21. Funny you mention color. According to all the literature it should be blue. BUT, early pictures show that it was green when it was in the car, so I am going back green. I kinda wonder if it wasn't an early production car and they were using up left over '41 parts. My machine shop guy said he learned several things about this motor, and he hopes the next 6 flathead he does is a late model -- parts are easier to find.
  22. I would like to ask opinions of you all. I just got my motor back from the machine shop. I intend to paint it. Would it look best painted in pieces then asembled, or should I assemble then paint. Also, of you that have painted engines, what paint works best, is durable to gas, oil etc.?? Should I just go with engine paint made for this motor, it is out there?
  23. Am I to assume one of these is for the Super Deluxe? Both say they are for the 42, and in some of my parts supplier catalogs theyonly show the one with the ring as being for the '42. This last photo is of the one in my car, it's a plain jane Deluxe model, no trim on the fenders, the grill surround is painted.
  24. I was browsing Ebay the other day for '42 Ford parts. I ran across what the advertiser said was a black out model horn button. It has bumps on the sides where the horn ring should be attached, and you can tell nothing was broken of. Thing is, it looks exactly like my Ford horn button, but as far as I know mine isn't a black out model. My car is black but the trim looks like any other car. Anyone have any ideas??
  25. If you go to the VanDerBrink web site they have several collections coming up for or just went to auction.