RIVNIK

Questions: Where can I obtain the 194 & 1816 bulbs for the instruments & shifter? What type bulb is used for the HVAC controls? Are they suitable for my 65? Are the instrument cluster lights accessible from underneath, or do I have to pull the cluster or dashpad? Thanx DREW

Hey Schmiddy! Cudos on a masterful job of fabrication!....... Hey Rodney! Better go with the rubber patch!

Greetings Riv lovers I need advice...... Ive been putting up with an annoying problem long enough. When I bought my 65 the ball joints & bushings needed replacing so I had the springs replaced at the same time. That was 24 yrs. ago but only about 1500 miles. Unfortunately the car went into hibernation soon afterward, where it sat 15 yrs.,much of that time w diagonally opposing flat tires. When it was reawakened for restoration I discovered that the Riv sits at an awkward slant, 1 1/4" higher on the pass. side in front & 1" higher in the rt. rear. Ive tried to remedy it from time to time w rubber & metal spreaders w little improvement. A mechanic friend says it is impossible to determine the offending spring/springs without taking them off so I may as well replace them all, considering the work involved. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated , including how much they should cost & the best place to buy them. I want to keep the stock ride height. I find AC/Delco on Ebay from between $90 &$125. I have a great old school suspension guy to do the job but he want me to acquire the springs. He estimated the labor at $100 per corner which sounds fair, especially for the fronts. Anyone disagree? Thanks, RIVNIK(Drew)

Unless you need the satisfaction of doing everything yourself the hard way, you might want to take advantage of a wood veneer kit. They are pre-cut, pre-lined, adhesive backed, & usually designed to fit inside the chrome trim, which, like the metal tabs, can be easily damaged. Door panels don't need to be removed or disassembled, although that would probably make the job easier. On the better kits the wood grain is carefully matched down the center from dash to console. Unfortunately, most of the vendors that traditionally carry these have discontinued, but they are still available from OPGI. You biggest problem may be removing & replacing the Riv emblems in the center of the door panels, as they are glued on & easily damaged. Good luck Drew

Hey Shmiddy ! Just received my clamshell manual & it is a thing of beauty. I can't believe I've pondered over clamshell problems and asked 100 questions of experts for twenty years, & finally had to be schooled from Switzerland ! Every Riv owner should have one of these. Aside from the glaring return spring omission, it is an in-depth, comprehensive manual which covers everything you need to know (almost). There can't be many of these out there....Get yours today! Drew

I have the same problem... Unfortunately, 1st thing I did after reading this thread was order the manual! Oh well, it will be a good thing to have I suppose. . thanks for the pics. 1st chance I get I'll get out there & see if they help. Of course I'll have to wait till it cools off a bit. These Fla. winters can be grueling! Eat your hearts out Yankees! (sorry, I couldn't help myself) Drew BTW: you're all welcome to come on down. (you know you will, eventually.) Ill be glad to put you up in my shed while you look for a place.

I have the same problem... Unfortunately, 1st thing I did after reading this thread was order the manual! Oh well, it will be a good thing to have I suppose. . thanks for the pics. 1st chance I get I'll get out there & see if they help. Of course I'll have to wait till it cools off a bit. These Fla. winters can be grueling! Eat your hearts out Yankees! (sorry, I couldn't help myself) Drew BTW: you're all welcome to come on down. (you know you will, eventually.) Ill be glad to put you up in my shed while you look for a place.

Hopefully the $24,00 Ebay listing is a typo!

Greetings! Quick question regarding the trim piece just below the rear window on a '65. Is this piece stainless or chromed pot metal ?

I use an battery cut-off switch that attaches to the neg.batt.pole. It has a knurled knob which you unscrew one turn to interrupt the current. When leaving the car in a "shady" area, you can remove the knob and the car is disabled. A smart thief may spot it, but in the dark and in the heat of the moment it appears as a regular battery terminal. Also very handy when working on the car, as it provides you with an emergency cut-off, and I can disable the courtesy lights with a twist of the knob. When in doubt, I back it up with "The Club". Both are non-invasive, old-school and low-budget, which I love! Look for battery cut-off switch on Ebay, starting around $1.50. RIVNIK

WARNING! Vegemite will make you talk funny!

greetings Felix! ClassicCarWiring can provide you with a wiring diagram for your '68. It is laminated ,fully color coded, with the main harness schematic on the front, windows & seat on back. It is actually a thing of beauty, & has been a great help in sorting out my '65. Search for it on Ebay. Best $18 I ever spent. Drew

AAAAH! I love the smell of WD in the morning!

Greetings Chuck! I don't how often you venture into those areas on your Riv, but I try to avoid them if possible...Going in deep can turn into a real PITA ! You might consider an old solution and prevention that I have used for years. Get two or three medium sized cans of WD40..... run all the windows up....Find as many openings around the weatherstripping as you can, and slide the little red tube into them,aiming all around to get as complete coverage inside the door as possible. I actually get out my body manual to remind myself of the positions of the inner workings & aim for those areas. Once a year I empty at least two cans into the four compartments housing the widow gear. I know this sounds like a crazy idea, but when i got my Riv the windows were all very sluggish, the drivers' barely crept up & down. I thought the motor was going, & actually bought a replacement. Then an old geezer turned me on to this trick, & after a few minutes of easy work my windows worked like new & have for years. Another plus....you probably won't have rust forming in those areas either. And BaBaBoooey to You'all RIVNIK

greetings Bros I have a nice 73 bumper I need to get out of my way.....It is high driver quality, w no dings and good chrome. I don't know what shipping will be, but I will give somebody a good deal to help compensate. contact me personally for details & pictures Drew Smith

Rustoleum is of course the old gold standard for rattle can paint, but I've had trouble with the satin black twice recently, once on an actual Riv wheel. The paint orange-peeled instantly as if it were sprayed over lacquer, which is what I first suspected. After thoroughly stripping and trying again, I realized the problem was with the paint. It also took forever to dry. I switched to Krylon (my usual paint of choice) and got superior results. BTW, I believe ceramic is added to paint for heat resistance & durability. Hence its use in engine & brake caliper paint. And Ed, I am normally a stickler for originality, but I've tried both "colors" and I really think my '65 looks better with the wheel inserts painted satin black. Just an opinion Drew

Greetings Ed & everyone, I have painted three sets of wheels over the years. The first two were done by hand masking the conventional way. With the last set I decided to use the stencils. I paid $9 for them on Ebay. Unfortunately they sent me stencils made for 14" wheels instead of the15" I specified. They are apparently identical except for the length of the 5 ribs that radiate out from the hub, so I was able to cut them & graft in small pieces of tape. Also the stencils only cover the ribs & the intricate curves at either end. This requires you to mask the easier curves between them. Aside from those complications I was pleased with the product. However, all it did was save time, something which I already have too much of. I discovered that I actually enjoy the zen like quality of intricate masking, having done several clamshells, grilles, & rocker panels. But I like to encourage anyone who is making products for old car restoration, so I'm happy I gave them a try. There were two complete sets of stencils included, so if you had 8 wheels to paint or could share them w a buddy I would recommend them. Other than that, if you have the average human complement of patience & dexterity, you're probably good on your own. Peace & Love Rivnik

nice rear armrest for sale on Ebay- no reserve!

I just want to know where "and Bob's yer uncle" came from! That's a new one on me, and I'm usin' it!

I consider an oil pressure gauge to be one of the most important features on an old car, even one with a newly rebuilt engine. Way more important than a clock, especially for me ( I always have a wristwatch on, and I have a quick-disconnect on my battery for when I'm not driving, so my clock was only right twice a day anyway.) I removed the clock and found an oil pressure gauge which matches the appearance of the other instruments. it's a perfect fit and also in the perfect location, front and center. Nothing has given me more peace of mind. The clock is in storage.

Greetings Jimmyg, Once things get going here you should get a lot of different opinions on this subject, but I'll throw my two cents in. I was having a hard time finding modern tires suitable for my '65 that were affordable. Of course if money is no object you can get a proper tire from one of the companies that specialize in antiques. I had the good fortune to meet an old school mechanic at my local Firestone. He recommended the Firestone FR380 (P225/75R15) which is a pickup tire. It is a bit larger than it needs to be so the Riv sits a little high, but the ride is excellent, especially at highway speeds. They will rub the wheel well slightly at full turn, but don't seem to effect turning radius. The white wall is 3/4" wide which looks great on the '65. I found that the car looked a little jacked up w my wire hubcaps, but when I mounted them on Rally wheels the Riv looked suitably muscular. Good luck, Drew

Greetings, One of the best things I ever did for my '65 was to mount Firestone FR380s. They are designated as pickup truck tires and are big, but not enough to seriously effect turning radius. They have a 3/4" whitewall which to me looks perfect on 1st gens. In fact they look just like the ones on Jan's Riv(earlier post). But the best thing about them is the ride, especially out on the freeway. The Riv tracks like it's on rails and handles like a new car. And just like me they were cheap (on sale under $100( 6 yrs. ago.) which is icing on the cake. Drew

ZIPDANG!!! What a find! You should hang on to that baby (like you should have hung on to that LandCruiser.) Even after all the other crap I've been through, one of my saddest experiences will always be the day I sold my '73 in a moment of weakness. Welcome to the club.

Thank you Tom! I am now totally enlightened on the subject of register rings... I was picturing a flat circular plate w 5 holes for the lugs which might in some way provide better contact w the drum.. but it's actually a centering device, correct?

Me again....I know register rings were standard on '65 wheels and are welded to the wheel...I occasionally here mention of them being knocked off presumably to use the wheel on another year Riv. Since only '65s have them, will the addition of a ring make another year Rally wheel suitable for a '65? Can a '65 wheel without the ring still be used on the '65? And are they available? Does anyone have any in their parts pile? So many questions.....