Jump to content

SSMcDonald

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SSMcDonald

  • Birthday 12/13/1940

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SSMcDonald's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

10

Reputation

  1. Use a little nail polish to mark the distributor positions.
  2. I don't see Packard listed in this discussion. My 1927 Packard model 343 has an 8 cylinder Delco Distributor. My mechanic tells me to acquire a replacement distributor cap. So does anyone have one on their shelf that they'd part with? I have a NOS rotor Steve at Navy65@windstream.net Reading Peter R's post, I suspect I need a Delco 16778 cap.
  3. Likely your Owen Dyneto generator is 6 Volt, positive ground. If my series '27 Packard 343 were here at home and not in the shop (along with my manuals), I could tell you what you have. That said, If Glen Cheaney in Wichita is still alive, he is the Owen Dyneto Guru (GCheaney@aol.com). Does your generator have the end covers? Does it have the cutout relay attached? I might be interested to have as a spare. Here's a photo of mine after Glen rebuilt it Steve
  4. Is there a published schedule or itinerary, or is it a secret?
  5. I don't understand the difference? If push comes to shove, can cartridge core radiators be substituted for ribbon core without any external appearance change?
  6. This is GOOD information! Thanks, Steve
  7. My 1927 Packard touring car radiator developed two weeping leaks. I went on the internet and then as suggested added a couple of tablespoons of pepper (coarse preferred). Thinking about my honeycomb radiator surviving, I went further. I bought a super glue that has a brush. After drying the affected spots that weeped, I inserted the brush in those holes and surrounding several times, coating the interior with super glue. I let that dry. Then I brushed satin black over the repair. The leaks appear to be gone and unrecognizable. 2. I visited Henry's radiator shop in Tallahassee to talk with Ronald, the grandson of this three generation radiator shop. I recommend Ronald to you with radiator problems (850-222-5468, 1423 N.Monroe, Tallahassee, FL). He liked my ideas but warned me that the square honeycomb of my Packard is NOT AVAILABLE, so to be careful. We talked about Barrs stop leak. He said, don't use it. Then he said the oil in Barrs is water soluble. Strain the pellets out of the Barrs and add the oil. It prevents rust and lubricates the water pump. Who'd-a-thunk it? Any machine shop can sell you water soluble oil to add to your radiator if you cannot find a 4oz jar of Barrs Top
  8. Agree. Interior photos do not show dickey seats, so car is likely a short wheel base series 4 or 5. Steve 1927: 343-290
  9. Hi Marc. I own 1927 Packard touring 343-290 s/n 223163R. Mine was built for the UK market to compete with RR & Bentley, that's why the R on my serial number. I viewed your prospective car; older Packards are simple & straightforward. I suggest the following. 1. If the radiator is chrome plated, it will have to be stripped and replated nickel; Packard wasn't into chrome in our vintage 1927. 2. DeLuxe model? My car had every conceivable option for 1927 because of being sent to England to compete; I never heard it termed a "deluxe." 3.Insure that the seller has the drum headlights. 4. I assume the "deluxe" included the windshield mounted small spotlights, and the tire air pump attached to the transmission. 5. Mine is not restored, it is 91 years original including the upholstery, so I cannot state what the restoration problems will entail. I can say that there are few advertised parts available as Packard support today starts about 1931. So much of my minor repairs have entailed machining the parts myself or having a machinist make the part. 6. Does the seller have the top frame and side curtains? If not, you'll have to find patterns, same for seats. 7. Does he have the spare wheel & carrier for the back of the car? The correct carrier may not be obtainable. 8. The price indicates to me that the seller is trying to recoup some of his restoration costs; very understandable. If he has all the above parts and missing nothing (bumpers, single taillight, etc.) make him an offer he cannot refuse. All the best Steve
  10. In the absence of obtaining an original, borrow one and make an aluminum casting. Probably not a big deal.
  11. SSMcDonald

    Parts

    I did not mean to discourage you. Part of the fun/adventure of our hobby is the successful search, discovery, and obtaining parts for our "project." My experience is with top end very rare cars, for which I have several. In my experience, parts and support from type clubs for pre chrome plated cars (yes, that's my dividing line, about 1927) is scant at best. Of course, being rare makes the search harder. Because I also restore early and rare airplanes, I have learned how to make parts when no source exists. That is also part of the game. I believe my object is to protect the cars we have so that the next generation may enjoy them. For we are not owners, just stewards of our cars.
  12. SSMcDonald

    Parts

    My experience with finding parts for my '27 343 is that Packards before about 1929 are unsupported. That said, parts can be found (or made) if you make an extra effort to find them. Steve
  13. 1. Driveline Inc. on Lane Ave in Jacksonville, FL built a new driveshaft from scratch for my 27 343. A family business for decades. I recommend them. 2. If you want to investigate an antique in Cropseyville that my great grandfather owned, drop me an email. Steve
  14. I own a '27 Packard 343-290 touring. My answer may not be germaine, but my interior lights only function when the headlight switch is turned on
×
×
  • Create New...