BearsFan315

these guys are hard to come by, well in good condition. also assuming you are looking for the Chevrolet Ones ?? have been a few over the last month or so on ebay, nothing fancy, dents n dings

Honestly think it is a pretty cool concept and if it helps just one person out, then you have done well !! Good Luck, and the price does not seem that bad as shipping is free !!

Still looking for a New Home . . .

have to say VERY NICE LOOKING Truck and Great Job on the Restoration !! You Have to enjoy it !! That is what it is all about, if you enjoying the show scene, then Show it as well!!

I have a 1933-36 Chevrolet Tail light Lens and Bezel in Superb Condition. Got this in a lot of parts I got for my 1929. Glass is fully entact, no chips or scratches, Overall it looks Great. Says Chev-Lite on Glass, and Guide ?? There is no rust that I can see in the Bezel. Tail Light 01 Tail Light 02 Tail Light 03 Tail Light 04 Asking $50 Complete Including Shipping to Most Any Continental US Address... Others Inquire about Shipping... May Fit other years or Applications... Also will consider Offers as well

do you have a date stamp code... should be a Letter the number then number possible like "A 15 2" also should be a Bowtie and a number near that as well

well went by O'REillys and picked up the BWD E5, made in Mexico, was nice heavy and durable looking. Good Construction. Bought it and out the door I went. This past weekend got the 1929 Chevrolet back running so changed out coils to test the new BWD E5, fired right up and ran smoothly. so now have a spare just in case i ever need it.

It does say "Road Worthy Driver" does not say that it currently RUNS or CAN OPERATE on it's own Power... you can get pulled around as you drive around... maybe it is a TRAINER CAR :-)

Well got all my Springs in !! Brakes are on hold for now, while I revisit the Engine and teh Main Bearings. Hoping to get this done this week and then back on the Brakes !!

I starting this weekend working on setting up the brakes on my 1929. Was told that the 1929 had all news shoes on all four corners. So this weekend I removed all four tires, looked over the rods, clevis, pins, etc... New shoes all the way around. I began by reading and doing my homework... Read the Owners Manual, Service Manual, also 1929 Service News ( It has step by step Adjustment Procedure ), and then scanning through post on here. Now armed and dangerous, I ventured out and began going through the steps. Had a little fun trying to get the Brake tool to line up with the Poportioner on the cross shafts. Cross Shaft & Proportioner Had to work the Cross shafts as they were nice and tight, been sitting awhile. I know that using the tool should set everything to a neutral position to do the rods. Wondering how the cross shafts should be sitting, when set here, this is what I have Cross Shaft End Location: this is looking towards the rear of the 1929, front to the right. Front Linkage this look right or off some ?? Once I got it lined up i set the front, was pretty easy. So i Went to the back, when I got to the back something caught my attention, looks like the pads are not square on the drums. Rear Brake - Top Down As you can see one side the rear is in line but the front it offset to the inside. Is it supposed to be like this, thought they should be square and inline ?? If they are supposed to be square, how can i get them there, looking in the Master Parts List there is not left / Right specific shoes, only top and bottom. I removed them and tried various setups to get them to line up but no avail ?! Here are some pictures of what I had to start with: Looking for ideas on what to do and should they be square on the drums, and if so how to get them there. What am I missing/ Overlooking.

Doing a little more Investigation and work, The FUZZ is a Rope Like Gasket to help control the flow of oil from going erratic and out the back. I gently removed the FUZZ to check the drain hole. Boy was it Clogged !! So spent some time with a Can of Brake Clean, Pipe Cleaners, and Compressed Air (Air Compressor). The Drain and reservoir area in the bearing were CLOGGED with grit, grime, sludge... Now it is completely clean. Ran a tes and oi lwill flow freely from the back to teh front, past the ball. Ball was free all along, just did not KNOW that the back half was CLOGGED. Cleaned it up, shimmed and checked my cleanrances, right about .0015" - .002" with the Plastigage & Torqued down. Pulled the from and it looks good, cleaned it up clearanced it and put it back in, now to do the center bearing, little more work here since I have to remove the oil pump line...

Well removed teh rear main bearing, the clearance is correct at about .0015" to .002". Here are some shots of the Bearing Cap. The ball is free and moves freely when i tilt the cap. Looking at the bearing surface is this a plug or what is this. also what is the fuzz that is in the Rear portion of the bearing carrier and engine part. Looks like some sort of seal / barrier material ?? Trying to figure out how the oil from the trough above the bearing, feeds into the bearing, where does it go ?? If the plug is there it has to go either out the back or front of the bearing ?!?

as you know I have the 1929 assembled and running, however I have noticed that in my drip pan i have oil... doing a little searching and tracing the oil is dripping out of the bottom of the flywheel cover. Some oil is also running from that rear engine area down the oil pan to the low point and dripping into the pan. Only leaks/ weeps when running, not a steady drip/ run but after running for about 5 minutes i have a good size oil spot in the pan, say 4-6 inches in diameter... So where is the Oil LEAKING ?? or Weeping ?? could it be from the Rear Main Bearing ?? is there a seal per say to prevent leaking or am i missing something. Could the bearing just not be tight enough ?? meaning taking it apart and verify the clearance in the bearing ??

Great, thanks for the Info... Went by O'Reillys and picked up the BWD E5 for $22, 6 Volt Coil in Stock. Once I get the car back up and running, will test teh new coil and make sure it is good to go

NAPA IC7 w/ 3 year warranty and is Echlin Brand for $27 IC7SB w/ 1 year warranty and is Mileage Plus Value Brand for $14 Going To swing by this Morning and look at the BWD and Possibly pick one up then may stop over at NAPA as well to see what the Echlin Looks like. Want to make sure it is 6 Volts w/ Black Casing, heard some have Blue/ Grayish Casings.... As wells a Screw Post, Preferrably no Spade Connectors, if so can cut those off

Thanks for the input !! Called my local NAPA, they were busy and said they would call me back, so waiting to see, if not will swing by later on my way home. O'Reilly s has the BWD E5 in stock all day for $22 so will hit NAPA see if they have anything, and then swing by OR and take it from there. Let you all know what I find out. no one else carries anything in stock, has to be ordered. granted I am in no rush, would just like to get my hands on one and touch it before buying it.

lol... Heard too many horror stories I guess, amke sure you watch this, get that, etc... what should i look for or would any of these do the trick, as long as it is 6 Volts no Resistor ?!?

What do I need to look for in a 6 Volt COIL for my 1929 ?? This is for a stock 6 Volt Electrical System on my 1929 Chevrolet. Starter: Delco-Remy 714-L Distributor: Delco-Remy 633-G Generator: Delco-Remy 943-J From what I have found so far in my research about Stock Delco-Remy 528-C Coil: Voltage: 6 Volts Primary Reistance: 0.5 - 0.9 Ohms ...(Connector to Connector) Secondary Resistance: 5k - 10k Ohms ...(Connector to Tower) Read something about a Ballast Resistor ?? Do NOT think I need one for my Application Found These Available, Stated as 6 Voil Coils, but no Coil Specs: Allis-Chalmers.............0236481..$25.....Tractor Supply Company BWD........................E5.......$25.....Advance & O'Reilly BWD........................E5P......$20.....Advance BWD........................E70P.....$28.....Advance Delco......................U520.....$30.....RockAuto Standard Motor Product.....UC14.....$20.....RockAuto Duralast...................c809.....$17.....Autozone Echlin.....................IC7......$28.....NAPA Echlin.....................IC7SB....$13.....NAPA Found Specs on this One: Airtex Wells...............5C1063..$20.....RockAuto .....Voltage: 6 Volts .....Primary Reistance: 1.0 - 1.4 Ohms .....Secondary Resistance: 5.5k - 9.5k Ohms Anyone Using any of these or have recommendations ?? Do not want to blindly test one out and do damage to my 1929.

What do I need to look for in a 6 Volt COIL for my 1929 ?? This is for a stock 6 Volt Electrical System on my 1929 Chevrolet. Starter: Delco-Remy 714-L Distributor: Delco-Remy 633-G Generator: Delco-Remy 943-J From what I have found so far in my research about Stock Delco-Remy 528-C Coil: Voltage: 6 Volts Primary Reistance: 0.5 - 0.9 Ohms ...(Connector to Connector) Secondary Resistance: 5k - 10k Ohms ...(Connector to Tower) Read something about a Ballast Resistor ?? Do NOT think I need one for my Application Found These Available, Stated as 6 Voil Coils, but no Coil Specs: Allis-Chalmers.............0236481..$25.....Tractor Supply Company BWD........................E5.......$25.....Advance & O'Reilly BWD........................E5P......$20.....Advance BWD........................E70P.....$28.....Advance Delco......................U520.....$30.....RockAuto Standard Motor Product.....UC14.....$20.....RockAuto Duralast...................c809.....$17.....Autozone Echlin.....................IC7......$28.....NAPA Echlin.....................IC7SB....$13.....NAPA Found Specs on this One: Airtex Wells...............5C1063..$20.....RockAuto .....Voltage: 6 Volts .....Primary Reistance: 1.0 - 1.4 Ohms .....Secondary Resistance: 5.5k - 9.5k Ohms Anyone Using any of these or have recommendations ?? Do not want to blindly test one out and do damage to my 1929.

Yeah Doing the same here... Early Chevy Parts $75 Inner, $90 Outter Rear both w/ Rivets Stanley's Parts Vintage Auto Parts $78 Lining Set, Also Per Shoe Option Sure there are others, just ones I remember off top of my head

Spent a little time out in the garage last night fooling with the timing & timing light. Trying to figure out to get my timing light 3555 INNOVA® Advance Timing Light to work with my antique Chevrolet, seems to keep picking up interference from Plug no 2. I managed to get it to work for the most part. Anyone know of any TRICKS or TIPS how to SHIELD the pick up from interference ?? On my first attempt I did not see any marking in the timing window 😕 so I rotated the distributer one way and the engine began to choke and try to shut off, so I spun it the other way, and it sped up, i went around adjusted the carb to settle it down, shined the light in the window, and I saw the UC mark just starting to appear in the bottom of the window. took a minute to look over what i had and realized that i could not spin the distributer any more in that direction and still had a ways to go to get the timing in range. I shut her down, and pulled the distributer, spun it one tooth, aligned the oil pump back up, and dropped her back in. doubled checked it over, fired it back up, adjusted idle, and lit up the light and were right about 0 deg timing, UC was right on the point. Made a few adjustments and got the timing to 12 deg and settle the engine down. sounded nice. Next I got the timing all set to 18 deg and settled the idle down and adjusted the carb. at this point the engine seems to just tap along, making soft music seems I have the plug gap, point gap, timing all set per recommendations, and it seems to run and settle in just fine. Will let it ride for now, and will go back and double check the valves soon and make any adjustments that are needed. So glad that it is running and sounding SO much better then it was before. I will shoot another video and post here soon, and you can do a before and after soundcheck. Now to close it up, and move on to the Brakes !!

Well I have gone back and Hot set the Valves... Sounds good, and seems to run smoothly. I need to adjust carb & set the timing... Which I have questions on, will post to a NEW thread for that. Youtube Video: Onward & Forward !!

Well needless to say I am estactic at this point. Finished up the initial phase of my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action], all the way to the Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up Phase Friday Night, Installed the Push Rod Cover, got it all done, let it set up and seal overnight. Saturday Morning went out and double checked all my settings and ensured I had everything ready to go. Since I replaced the Fuel Pump Galss Bowl Screen, Gasket, and installed the paper fuel filter, i needed to make sure that fuel was flowing, as the bowl was empty. I turned over the engine a few times and watched for fuel to the bowl. Nothing... tried a few more times, nothing... scratched my head, and before tearing anythig a part, decided to pull off the glass bowl, double check everything, reseat the gasket, and bowl and tighten it back up. Turned over the engine and fuel was flowing, bowled filled up. One more check around the engine and I turned the key. After a little negotiated the gas, choke, and such the engine sputtered and came to life. Youtube Video: Now need to warm it up to operating temp, and then Hot Set the Valves & set the timing... It did throw out some smoke and such, but after a few minutes, setteld down and mellowed out. Also need to adjust throttle & idle on the Carb.

Well here are some Pictures of the Push Rod Cover Installed: Very happy with the results and how it looks !! Now to get it Fired up !!

Got my Push Rod Cover installed and sealed, letting it sit overnight and set up/ cure. Will take some pictures and post them later. Spacer seemed to work fine, all new hardware installed as well. Looks good, should be ready to fire up this weekend !!