BearsFan315

Good Point, Definetly do NOT want to plug or block up the feed holes in the rod bearing caps. Would defeat the whole purpose of the dippers.

Landman... just a thought, what happens if you do get grease in the dippers ?? granted you can clean the grease out, but the grease should not hurt anything, should it ?? as long as it is compatible and soluable. what kind of grease did you use ?? I have a tub of Valvoline General Multipurpose Grease for GM VV614 and a tub of Valvoline SynPower Full-Synthetic Multipurpose Grease VV986 That i can utilize for this purpose. I know in my current position, with engine installed and connected, a whole lot easier to spin forward than backwards. Still gonna try when I get time, was a long busy weekend here. Caught up on yard work and cleaning the daily driver !!

Actually looking at it, on the 1930 i was working on I had used the Rust Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spray, Gloss Black, as well as the Satin Black. I really liked the way it Sprayed, and the fact that I could holdthe can upside down and still get a good even spray & coat !! Plus the Cans are a little larger so you get mor paint No problems with it sticking to the surface and staying put !! Of Course I used it over the Rust Oleum Professional Series Primer !!

Saw that, also oil based I have used some of their other "Professional" Series and have been very happy with them. Nice smooth coat, covers well, and holds up to abuse. Well so far anyways.

Good Thought Wood Fiddler... Currently it is up on four jackstands, all four wheels off the floor, plugs are out, top & bottom of the engine is open (No Valve Cover, No Push Rod Cover, & No Oil Pan). 1929 Photos up on Stands: Also if I spin one back wheel, I will need someone to hold the other back wheel or it will spin opposite direction not turning transmission/ drivetrain or will it. Or do I have to turn both wheels at the same time in the same direction to turn the engine ?? I will try this if I get time this weekend, put my son to work and help me. General 1929 Photos: 1929 Photo Op taken while it is in the garage, right after delivery. Once I get it running and stopping I will roll it out and get some better photos in the clean crisp outdoors

Checking the current Timing before I start the above Plan of Action When I have Cylinder 1 @ TDC (under Compression Stroke), I should be able to see the 12 deg Timing Mark in the window, IF the timing is relatively close, if not it should at least be just outside the window ?? Is this correct ?? Thinking before i set the timing this would be a good way to check to see if the timing is even close ?? or is there a better way to do this ?? So I have piston 1 set at TDC top dead center, under compression (confirmed with compression guage), (Freshly painted timing marks for visibility). Now when I have this set where should my Rotor be pointed (Distributor) ?? My thought it should be pointed towards Plug 1. based on the 1929 Repair Manual and various postings on here the Firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4, and this is the order the plugs should be connected with Plug 1 being located approximately at 5 O'clock, going clockwise for the remainder. Looking like this: however this is where my Rotor/ Distributor Sits with this configuration: Distributor Rotor Location Currently Rotor Button Removed Looks like it is getting ready to fire Number 6 !! Well in my case with the mixed up wiring would be firing number 3 😕 Am I Correct so far: YES or NO ?!? If so I found one issue already, that being that they have the Number 3 & Number 6 plugs reversed, so they are currently firing 1-5-6-3-2-4, which may be a major cause in Rough Running & Sounding and the knocking/ tapping hopefully was from improper bearing clearances which i have already addressed and fixed. So looks like I need to pull out Distributor and rotate 180 degrees, so that it is pointing at Number 1 not Number 6. Swapping the wire is cake, only takes a few seconds. It is amazing that the engine ran, but hey... hoping it runs smoother once i get it all done and back together. End result would be to have piston 1 at TDC (Compression Stroke) timing window reading 12 deg, and distributor rotor pointing at the number 1 Plug Wire. This should get me really close in the Ball Park. Once I get it all back together & running I will Fine Tune the Timing. Still things to do on my Plan of Action List Above. Trying to keep moving forward, while I am waiting on parts, pieces, etc...

As for the Top of the Engine... Removed the valve cover, as I will eventually need to set and adjust the valves. But for now I have cleaned up the Cover, and sent it to be cleaned so that it can be primed & painted. Someone along the way punched holes in the cover for venting, I am going to have the holes cleaned up and welded so that it will look original. Also noticed that I need to get some wicks, as there are NONE !! Ordered the wicks when i ordered my gaskets. Need to remove the rocker arms and install the wicks per the manual. Detail of Oil Wick from Manual: Already have a New Valve Cover Gasket, just need to get things done so I can close up the top half.

As for the Side of the Engine... I have removed the Push Rod Cover, it has also been sent to the local Radiator shop, it will be Stripped so that I can prime and paint it up. Also have a new Gasket as well. I plan to install the gasket to the cover using Permatex 2, using a thin coat. Then clean up the block surface and reinstall the cover with new gasket. All the rods look great, none of them seem bent. Here are some shots of the cover & gasket:

As a side note, while i was in the lower half of the engine, I checked out what was in there and it's condition. Here is what I Found: 1-Missing both Oil Pump Suction Pipe Screen Part No 835579 & Oil Pump Suction Pipe Spring Part No 346804, but talked with a local supplier about a few hours from me, up in Glen Allen, VA and he actually had a set of NOS on hand, so I picked it up and now in my possession. 2- Several of the Connecting Rods were so loose that i could move them EASILY by hand, so have set teh clearances on ALL 6 Connecting Rods per the manual. Funny part is the engine Turns easier my hand then before. Also checked the two oil pockets/ reservoirs on the bearing ends to make sure they help oil, as well as the ball checks and the flow paths to ensure oil could freely flow. I am waiting on hardware, had to order some .250-20 UNC Round Head Slotted Machine Screws, all the local stores only carry the Phillip head type, so ordered what I really wanted and original to the car. Also waiting on local shop to clean & fix up the pan, then I will prime and paint it. Also have a new Oil Pan Gasket in Hand. Some Picts of the Oil Pan:

unimogjohn... I am in Portsmouth/ Norfolk area, far SouthEastern Tip by the Mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. Yeah most of the cranks will need to be replaced, as well as some of the tracks. I have found a few places that actually carry them, figured I am going to hold off on replacing them till i get to the interior, unless I come across a steal of a deal on a set !! First priority is to get the eingine assembled and running right, then will set the brakes. Has a compltely new brake job, as I was informed when I bought it. So I am going to build a brake tool based on Chevrolets Specifications for one, also see that I can buy one from a few shops as well, but being in the Mechanical Design Engeering Field I think it would be more fun to design one out and have one made. As for the Roof Top found out that Hampton Coach (now part of LeBarron Bonney) carry a complete kit for the roof, as well as the kit for the interior ALL THE WAY. Actually got the sample kit from them with samples, colors, and pricing. And there is a local guy here that can do the installation as well.

Landman... Thanks for the info, I have actually heard about doing this. The pictures really help. How can I spin the Engine Backwards ?? Understand that my Engine and all is Still installed in the Car, Fully connected. While I have the pan dropped I am also going to prime and paint it. In cleaning out my oil pan to prep it for priming and painting, realized that some of the dipper trays have pin holes in them, looks like from rusting/ sitting around during rebuild from previous owner(s) ?!? So Now I am looking for a way to either fix/ repair my pan or buy one from a fellow Member... Took it by the local Radiator Shop here and the guys says he can braze/ solder/ weld them up really nice with no problem. He gave me a great price, so I am going to see what he can do. They specialize in Radiators, building, repairing, desigining, etc... They restore antique radiators as well, plus they custom build heat exchangers from little guys to monsterous large ones for large diesels and ships. They are also going to dip it, which will strip it back to bare metal. Holes in Dipper Trays:

Thanks, my plan on the Oil Pan Gasket, I have made 4 Guide Pins, took 4 .250-20 UNC bolts about 2.00" long, cut off the heads, ground and rounded that end off. This way i can thread them into the four corners, so when I install the pan i know that I am going straight up and even, as not to disturb or move the gaskets. With it being a 4 piece gasket set it is my understanding that the side pieces must be installed first as the end of the end corks but up against them, then use permatex 2 in the corners to seal them, but just a dab. Also have been told to Wet the end corks and wrap them around a can and let dry to preform them into shape for easier installation, also that I can use a thin coat of grease to hold the gaskets against the block surface, Or could use a thin film of the permatex 2, i just want to ensure that IF i have to replace the gasket again, that I can easily remove it and not have to clean off the permatex. Previous owner did away with the cork gasket and opted to use a black rtv to seal the pan on, granted it leaked on both bearing ends, it was a royal pain to remove, took time and patience, then more time to clean the surfaces !! Think i made up a few new words in the process As for the Fuel tank and carburetor, it is a fresh clean tank. Also the system was drained & flushed recently. I also bought the filter from The Filling Station that drops in the Glass fuel bowl for an added level of security and Filtration.

OK, in Doing a Simple Engine Tune-UP & Setting the timing on the 1929... [based on the Rough Running and such from this Video: ]Here is my Current Plan of Action: Based on my homework & reading the forums Oil Pan Gasket -- Drain Oil & Inspect for Metal particles/ Other Contaminants -- Check Lower Half of Engine ---- Rods, Bearings, Dippers, Oil Lines, Oil Pump -- Clean Pan Gasket Surface (Pan & Engine) -- Inspect & Check Dipper Clearance (What Should This Be ? & Best Way to Check this) -- Install New Oil Pan Gasket Set -- Fill with oil [10w-30] Plugs & Wires -- Remove, Inspect & Check -- Regap Plugs to .040" [AC Delco C-86 Plugs] Points, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Coil, Condensor -- Inspect & Check -- Set Point Gap to .018" per recommendation Valves COLD SET -- Inspect & Check w/ Engine Cold -- Check Each Cylinder & both Valves on Each Cylinder when that Cylinder is TDC (Under Compression Stroke, when both valves are CLOSED) ---- Set Intake Clearance to .006" ---- Set Exhaust Clearance to .008" Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up -- Fire Up Engine (Cross Fingers for Starting Up & Running) -- Set Timing Timing -- Check & Set to 18 deg (Per Recommendations on Here) -- Warm-Up to Operating Temperature -- Shut Down Engine & Check/ Set Valves at Temperature Valves HOT SET -- Inspect & Check w/ Engine Warmed up -- Check Each Cylinder & both Valves on Each Cylinder when that Cylinder is TDC (Under Compression Stroke, when both valves are CLOSED) ---- Set Intake Clearance to .006" ---- Set Exhaust Clearance to .008" Also Will Replace These Gaskets while I am in there: Push Rod Gasket Valve Cover Gasket -- Seems Stright forward, remove existing, clean up surfaces on Engine & Cover, Install New Gasket. -- Should I install any form of sealant or Adhesive, i.e. Permatex No 2, and if so on which surface, Engine or Cover ??

Very nice !! Thanks for Sharing

Well found a NOS Screen from a fellow VCCA member a few hours away. Packed and shipped me the part and now in my possession... Just need some time to install it and close up the bottom end.

Ok here are some pictures of the pieces unloaded, unpacked, and getting sorted out:

Well I am on my Official Second Antique Project, this being a 1929 Chevrolet International, 4 Door Sedan. Picked it up from a gentleman Out in Indiana. Partially restored, mainly the interior, roof, and a few cosmetics left to be done... Beautiful car, mainly original parts n pieces, Engine has been recently rebuilt/ overhauled (will tear into it and check out everything) Paint looks great, frame great shape, as well as most of the rest of the car. It has not earned a name yet, hopefully in time it will get a name Have the kids working on that as well, a good name for the car. Here are some photos from the seller: 1929: Resto DVD Very Nice Looking car, just needs some TLC and finishing up. Hope to get it all finished up and driving then it can be the Sunday driver for a trip to a local eatery or park, peaceful Sunday drives.

Not really sure if it is the First Design or the Second Design ?? What is the easiest way to tell which one I have installed ?? Here are some Picts of what I have: 1929 Oil Pump 01 1929 Oil Pump 02 1929 Oil Pump 03 1929 Oil Pump 04 1929 Oil Pump 05

Looking for the Screen & Spring that goes on a 1929 Chevrolet 194 ci Vane Oil Pump. And any other parts to this assembly for Oil Pick-Up !! Oil Pump Suction Pipe Screen Part No: 835579 Oil Pump Suction Pipe Screen Spring Part No: 346804 As well as pictures/ details of how it is assembled and goes together. Just shoot me a PM !!

We should be there bright and early... Scoping out and looking for parts to complete the 29 :-) Then scope out the show field and talk some cars !!

We were there last year, and plan on coming back again this year. Very nice show and swap meet. Plenty of room !! Lots of great rides to look at and plenty of nie folks to talk cars/ trucks !!

Love a Three day weekend on top of that Monday was a beautiful afternoon, once the rain stopped and the sun came out, Temps hit the 70's !! So I rolled out the 30 and spent another few hours outside on the frame. Actually finished up the Frame section and got it all Primed !! Here are some Pictures from Monday: Huckster: Frame Prime 04 Today suppose to be back cool again, plus back to work for me...

Two Words... WOW & Awesome !! True Craftsmanship & Dedication, looks like you KNOW what you are doing and MORESO LOVE what you are doing.

Continuing to sort and Organize Parts... also adding parts to the collection as I can find them Contact me if Interested

Not that I can see or Find . . . scanned over it several times now :/